Draft problem

[RobDee]

Hey all I'm new here and to wood burning. I had a stove in my garage for 3 years with no probs. I only used it occasionaly (8-10 times a year). Never had a draft problem. Since I have installed it in my home I had to run a new vent (my chimney is toast and currently using a power venter for my oil boiler) the install runs vertical for 4' then 2' on a 45 degree thru the thimble then 4' more at 1" per foot rise to clear my porch roof then a 5' vertical rise 3' above the roof line. Now this is the first floor and I have a 3 story victorian. I am 10 feet from the closest outside wall on the 2nd floor and It also has a rain cap. Now my problem is on start up I have a wicked time establishing draft lots of puff back and the sort, once draft is established no probs. I've tried burning a high flame starter fire with damper full open door slightly open and intake full open and a combination of half vent, door fully open, door fully closed, but always damper wide open. Any suggestions?
I have a Vermont Castings century non cat.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Rob, can you put another section on the top? It sounds like you don't have much vertical there and with the horizontal sections, that is robbing draft even though you have the 1" per foot rise.

 

[RobDee]

Pics of install

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Rob, is that chimney insulated? And I do believe it is not high enough.

 

[RobDee]

no just 24 gauge smoke pipe. The directions for the stove said 2 feet above peak at least 10 foot away

 

[Backwoods Savage]

With the chimney not being insulated, that smoke will cool too fast. That alone can cause not enough draft. I'd also be concerned that the horizontal section comes pretty close to that wood. The vertical does too, but the horizontal part would really worry me.

It will cost quite a bit to run insulated, but well worth the dollars. I'd still put another 4' on top too. Even though you are 2' above that porch roof, that house is tall, so you will have problems with draft with that.

 

[sl7vk]

There are a lot of bends, and a lot of horizontal runs there.....

No way of running class A straight up through the house?

 

[begreen]

That installation is about the worst thing that has happened that old house. Rob, if you are coming here for advice, everyone is happy to help. However, one thing is really important and that is safety. I can't believe this installation in a dense neighborhood and with children in the house.

Don't burn with that setup! It violates multiple codes, the stove manual directions and common sense.

 

[RobDee]

ok ok I get it....I'm going out to get 16' of supervent and a new cap for the outside install other then the outdoor replacement what else do you suggest the last thing I want is a fire I have only burned the stove 3 times and always under watchful eye in and out. I am serious about saftey and have let the stove burn out till I fix all of this. I guess getting advice from friends dosen't help with this set up. now I'm here and want to know the right way. As for the interior install see anything wrong?

 

[Valhalla]

That installation is about the worst thing that has happened that old house. Rob, if you are coming here for advice, everyone is happy to help. However, one thing is really important and that is safety. I can't believe this installation in a dense neighborhood and with children in the house.

Don't burn with that setup! It violates multiple codes and common sense.

Rob, I completely agree with BeGreen. There must be a better (safer) location and also using Class A in that large home. Possibly a relined chimney, move the stove another room, etc.

 

[sl7vk]

ok ok I get it....I'm going out to get 16' of supervent and a new cap for the outside install other then the outdoor replacement what else do you suggest the last thing I want is a fire I have only burned the stove 3 times and always under watchful eye in and out. I am serious about saftey and have let the stove burn out till I fix all of this. I guess getting advice from friends dosen't help with this set up. now I'm here and want to know the right way. As for the interior install see anything wrong?

Are you running that pipe through some blinds?!?!?

 

[begreen]

The Century manual is pretty thin on installation variances but does say: "Single wall flue pipe assemblies must not exceed 10 feet (3 metres) in overall length."

If you look at better steel stove manuals you'll also often see them recommending to keep horizontal runs under 4ft. The long horiz run over the porch, even if done with class A pipe is likely to make for balky operation. With class A pipe, I don't think you are going to be able to maintain clearances and get enough pitch. Also, for the exterior piping, have you contacted a building inspector or fire marshall? You'll need to see what they say, but having a smoke pipe that close to windows seems a violation to me. But perhaps I'm in error.

On the interior, what is the hearth made of?

 

[RobDee]

no it transfers into A-vent thru a thimble built into a wooden frame

 

[RobDee]

On the interior, what
is the hearth made of?

Hearth is tile on wonderboard

 

[RobDee]

new plan ........I'm gonna run through the porch roof and straight up the side of the house with Supervent JSC of course with a thimble and flashing there by limiting the horizontal run to 2' to get out of the house. Do you think this will work? is it overkill using JSC? Help!

 

[begreen]

That should dramatically improve draft. Supervent class A pipe will be required for the entire exterior run to above the roofline. It's not overkill. 2" clearances will need to be maintained at all points for the exterior class A piping.
Another interior question. What is the distance from interior elbow to the nearest combustible? What is the distance from it to the ceiling above it?

 

[crazy_dan]

Supervent class A chimney pipe is not overkill and is what is supposed to be used. I used supervent from Lowe's when i installed my chimney.

 

[RobDee]

33 inches from ceiling and 21 inches from wall

 

[begreen]

33 inches from ceiling and 21 inches from wall

That's good. If you re-pipe the exterior flue in class A, heading vertical up the side of the house maintaining correct clearances, it should be 1000% safer. Then it's a matter of burning dry wood and keeping the flue clean.

I'm really happy you came here Rob. It's great to see that you are willing to do this safely. Ask as many questions as you need and we'll try to answer them for you.

 

[Valhalla]

new plan ........I'm gonna run through the porch roof and straight up the side of the house with Supervent JSC of course with a thimble and flashing there by limiting the horizontal run to 2' to get out of the house. Do you think this will work? is it overkill using JSC? Help!

Hooray! Now we can all sleep safely and soundly at night.

 

[buzcranne]

I just wanted to say once again how fantastic this forum is. Always willing to help, always encouraging good practices, never looking down on newcomers or those who have made mistakes.

I'm pretty new here myself and have asked a couple of questions that I later realized were no-brainers that had been covered dozens of times. I felt a little like a goof. And yet no one said, "Read the forum, dummy!" Just patient, clear, and thorough help.

This may be the best forum on the 'net.