Drippy fireplace

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JeffL

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Hearth Supporter
Hi,

I've had a consistent drips from all over the inside of my huge stone fireplace that houses my new Avalon Rainier and chimney liner (I hope the photo is attached). I have not been using the stove this past winter due to access problems from unusually heavy snow, and due to reticence about the water coming down. The context There are some issues with snow damming against the chimney and the chimney flashing, but the drip continued this past weekend even with the snow gone and just intermittent rain showers. I'm wondering if this might be condensation since the stone stays cold even when the room starts to warm up? The cabin sits empty and cold most of the time, in a humid forest environment.

I also found my stove had standing water in it when I tried to light it this weekend. There are also some issues with sealing of the storm collar on the chimney extension that could account for water getting into the stove, or could it be due to condensation too?

Other than fixing the flashing, what else should I be doing? Is a dehumidifier in order, and will it work in cool air?

Thanks for any insights!

Jeff
 
Here is the stove and fireplace.
 

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I dont think there would be water inside the stove unless your top plate on top of the chimney is not sealed completly. Try caulking with high heat silicone, and see if that fixes that problem.
 
I suppose, not really sure. It could also be due the the top plate not being sealed properly.
 
Jeff you have a very nice set up there.

Look just get some GE silicone tube caulking (a case) and and plaster it around your roof chimney area...it's clear you won't see it from the ground and most important it always stays flexible. Don't dick around with roofing cement. GE silicone never gives up, never sleeps, rests or loses its properties...its always there on station serving you. You can even (on a warm day) lift your shingles up and caulk under them too...don't spare the GE silicone caulking.

GE, GE only! Good luck...there's no reason for you to have a leak with a beautiful set up like you have.
 
Any possibility of getting a photo posted of the top of the flue and roof penetration?
 
Thanks for asking. I have photos of the chimney from the ground that I can access and post tonight, but I don't have any photos taken at the top of the chimney. That will have to wait until my next trip up there. Meanwhile, my installer and I are scheduling to look it over and try to figure out what's wrong, so that's positive.
 
Jeff, the picture really helps. That looks like a pretty crappy seal where the vent flashing meets the tile pipe. What is up there appears to be a sloped roof collar? The top flashing is normally a flat piece. But most importantly, there doesn't appear to be any storm collar on the pipe. It looks like it's just asking to leak.
 
The flat flashing on top of the flue tile doesn't overlap the edge of the tile on the left side, but the whole thing is sealed with silicone. The conical metal collar around the pipe, however, is not sealed with anything. It should have a high-temp. silicone collar on it, right?

I'm going to ask the installer to install a larger top plate on the flue tile and a storm collar.

Thanks for the advice.

Jeff
 
The conical piece is what is usually used on a pitched roof. Normally the chimney top flashing is flat. And there is no storm collar over the top of the cone. That's what normally stops all water and is siliconed. Take a look at some pictures of other installations to get an idea of what is usually used or go to www.duravent.com and look at their interactive installation guide.
 
I hadnt been on in a few days and wanted to stop back, and check out what happened. And I see they hacked that flashing pretty good. Once you get a new plate and seal it in I think your problem will be fixed
 
Ok... there is a storm collar, I can see the screw in there to tighten it. Although I don't see any caulk on it which is where water might be getting in. Also.... damn is that thing even straight? I know the picture is a little crocked but the pipe coming out looks crocked compared to the tiles. The top plate does not overlap very well but that's not that major.

I would take the storm collar off, and then see if you can lift the plate up. Silicone the plate to the tiles really well and then reinstall the collar and silicone that to the pipe and also to the plate. Make sure to tool all the caulk out but still leave a thick bead.
 
Get a properly sized top plate, bend all 4 sides an inch over and seal underneath, you won't have to worry bout if the silicone fails or not as far as keeping it water tight. That is a storm collar as previously explained.
But it needs caulk around the top of it. They really hacked that top plate job. There is your leaker.
 
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