Drolet 1800 Escape Outside air kit?

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.

RodC

New Member
Nov 30, 2022
2
Alaska
I live in a log cabin which lets a lot of air leak in between the logs when using the wood stove. Having trouble keeping 1200 sf cabin heated. Would an OAK help reduce the negative air pressure and reduce drafts? The logs have not yet been chinked and I have good draft with 28' stack going thru 2 levels and never get any smoke inside when the door is opened.
 
It's really hard to heat a leaky sieve. I'm thinkin' time to get chinkin'!
 
  • Like
Reactions: RodC
I live in a log cabin which lets a lot of air leak in between the logs when using the wood stove. Having trouble keeping 1200 sf cabin heated. Would an OAK help reduce the negative air pressure and reduce drafts? The logs have not yet been chinked and I have good draft with 28' stack going thru 2 levels and never get any smoke inside when the door is opened.
It might help some but the biggest issue is with the lack of air sealing. Let’s say the stove consumes 50 cfm that’s 3000 cu ft per hour. Volume of cabin is at least 10,000 )probably 15k cu ft or more with a 28’ flue). so one air exchange every 3- 4 or 5hours. (1 exchange every 4-5 hours is standard). All that is to say the stove combustion air is not the problem.

Air seal, air seal, air seal then insulate. Then wortabout and OAK ( but it’s not going to hurt anything if it make you feel better then I’d say do it.).

I might consider a damper if you don’t have one. My 1800i over drafts on 24’ of insulated liner.
 
  • Like
Reactions: RodC
It might help some but the biggest issue is with the lack of air sealing. Let’s say the stove consumes 50 cfm that’s 3000 cu ft per hour. Volume of cabin is at least 10,000 )probably 15k cu ft or more with a 28’ flue). so one air exchange every 3- 4 or 5hours. (1 exchange every 4-5 hours is standard). All that is to say the stove combustion air is not the problem.

Air seal, air seal, air seal then insulate. Then wortabout and OAK ( but it’s not going to hurt anything if it make you feel better then I’d say do it.).

I might consider a damper if you don’t have one. My 1800i over drafts on 24’ of insulated liner.
I am considering adding a damper-just trying to make it thru the first season in AK. I think I'm losing a lot of heat thru the stove pipe.
 
I am considering adding a damper-just trying to make it thru the first season in AK. I think I'm losing a lot of heat thru the stove pipe.
It’s worth a shot. I'm either going to block all the holes in my damper or try restricting the air intakes the insert has two separate ones.

I am also growing to pay much more attention to how I load the stove. Raking coals forwards and packing it well to have a good front to back burn so it does not all light off at once.
 
Should have bought a blaze king.🤣
 
Should have bought a blaze king.🤣
Not a week goes by when I don’t think that myself! If wishes and butts were $$ in the bank we all have BKs;)
 
  • Like
Reactions: TomMcDonald