Drolet Escape 1800 - Overfiring or Very Short Burn Times

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ToastyInDE

New Member
Apr 20, 2019
16
Northern Delaware
I had a Drolet Escape 1800 (version on legs) installed in the fall and have been using it on the weekends. The stove pipe/chimney is a straight double walled run of about 25'. I'm using oak that's been cut and stacked for over a year and is below 20%. Stove starts up well, but can't seem to find a sweet spot. It'll either overfire or I have to settle for short burn times. With three splits, it'll fire for about 90 minutes, get up to about 500-550, and then transition to coals for another 90 minutes, so I'm loading about every three hours. I'm only putting three splits at a time because anything more and the stove will sort of take off with the secondary burn go to 700F or higher. Even when I put four or five splits in and I sweat out the temps, I'm still only getting around 4 hours between loads.

I've read some people saying they like the Escape 1800 because of it's long burn times. Not here. Any comments, questions, or suggestions are welcome!
 
My guess is that your wood is not dry. Drying oak in a year or less is tough unless you use a kiln. How did you measure your MC? On a fresh split at room temp?
 
My guess is that your wood is not dry. Drying oak in a year or less is tough unless you use a kiln. How did you measure your MC? On a fresh split at room temp?
I used a moisture meter. I split a larger piece open in the fall and measured the moisture in the middle. I seem to remember it being below 20%. When I get home from work today I'll do another one to double check. Will the moisture reading differ if the piece is at room temp vs. outdoor temp?
 
I used a moisture meter. I split a larger piece open in the fall and measured the moisture in the middle. I seem to remember it being below 20%. When I get home from work today I'll do another one to double check. Will the moisture reading differ if the piece is at room temp vs. outdoor temp?
In colder temps you will get a lower (false) reading. Split, put it indoors for 12 hrs or so and then measure on the fresh split face.
 
Measure draft?
 
How far are you shutting the air? You should be able to shut it all the way eventually unless your wood is too wet. My flue is quite a bit shorter than yours and I have no issues shutting the air back all the way with good wood.

I'd load it full for max burn times. If it takes off too much you might have too much draft and want to install a damper.
 
I'm only putting three splits at a time because anything more and the stove will sort of take off with the secondary burn go to 700F or higher.
700* is not "too hot"...700-750 is a good target, 800* is getting close to "too hot".
With your straight up 25' chimney I'm saying you need a pipe damper to knock your chimney draft down...that will make it more controllable and stretch out burn times. I'd bet your internal pipe temps are pretty high...
 
In colder temps you will get a lower (false) reading. Split, put it indoors for 12 hrs or so and then measure on the fresh split face.
Didn't know that, thanks. Will do that and let you know what the reading is.

Measure draft?
How do I measure draft? Is there a simple method?

How far are you shutting the air? You should be able to shut it all the way eventually unless your wood is too wet. My flue is quite a bit shorter than yours and I have no issues shutting the air back all the way with good wood.

I'd load it full for max burn times. If it takes off too much you might have too much draft and want to install a damper.
Yes, I fully shut off the air once it gets to about 450F with a nice bed of coals and it'll slow down and the secondary burn starts shortly after. I suspect that it might be getting too much draft and I've thought about putting in a damper.

700* is not "too hot"...700-750 is a good target, 800* is getting close to "too hot".
With your straight up 25' chimney I'm saying you need a pipe damper to knock your chimney draft down...that will make it more controllable and stretch out burn times. I'd bet your internal pipe temps are pretty high...
Another vote for a draft issue, thanks. I might buy a damper and try it out. It's not too expensive.
Yeah, 700 isn't crazy, but like I said I still get short burn times when I put 4 or more splits in. Heavy draft could explain that.
 
Yes, I fully shut off the air once it gets to about 450F
Is this stovetop temperature? If so, by the description I think you are waiting too long to close down the air. This is heating up the wood mass too quickly which is then outgassing too rapidly. That causes a high stovetop temp and short burn time. It's ok for when one wants to really push the stove, but not ideal for long burns. Stovetop temperature is not an accurate way to determine when to start closing down the air, especially on a cold start up. Flue gas temp is better.

What type of instrumentation is on the stove? Stovetop thermometer? Stovepipe thermometer? What size splits are you burning?
 
Make sure the ash drawer access plug is fully seated. It will allow quite a bit of air in if it is not.
 
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I had a Drolet Escape 1800 (version on legs) installed in the fall and have been using it on the weekends. The stove pipe/chimney is a straight double walled run of about 25'. I'm using oak that's been cut and stacked for over a year and is below 20%. Stove starts up well, but can't seem to find a sweet spot. It'll either overfire or I have to settle for short burn times. With three splits, it'll fire for about 90 minutes, get up to about 500-550, and then transition to coals for another 90 minutes, so I'm loading about every three hours. I'm only putting three splits at a time because anything more and the stove will sort of take off with the secondary burn go to 700F or higher. Even when I put four or five splits in and I sweat out the temps, I'm still only getting around 4 hours between loads.

I've read some people saying they like the Escape 1800 because of it's long burn times. Not here. Any comments, questions, or suggestions are welcome!
I have the same stove. I had the same exact problems. It's an overdraft issue. Start with a damper on the flue, and start shutting it down sooner, and in small increments until you get your desired results. With dry oak, on start-up, you might have to spend 20 minutes or so shutting it down incrementally, and then even more time with it barely open until it gets to the peak temperature you want. The last little bit of travel in the air control makes a lot of difference between smouldering and staying in flames. We describe it as "sensitive".

I sent enormous amounts of heat up my chimney the first year, like you are doing. Now I'm getting the results I (and you) expected.

If you still are having problems after installing the damper and paying close attention during the take off phase of the burn, we can discuss other ways to reduce the air, but start with the damper.

Ignore the wet wood and ash pan comments.
 
I am not an expert but it sounds like your splits are small. And it sounds like your wood is dry. The only way I can keep a good bed of coals for an easy 6AM start is put in my largest splits in about 10 pm and turn down the damper on my stovepipe half way. I have had my Escape 1800 burning since October 28 and am still learning. I use my smallest splits during the day only because I am retired and can babysit the fire if needed. I only turn the stovepipe damper down at night never during the day.
 
Make sure the ash drawer access plug is fully seated. It will allow quite a bit of air in if it is not.

I forgot to put that plug back into place after a thorough stove clean out. I will NOT do that again! Holy blow torch! I only had made a 3 split fire so the excitement didn’t last long. 45 minutes.
 
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