They might fuss a bit about "proper placement" of the heat sensor and low static pressure would be my guess...which with ducts that size, you basically wont have any static pressure...I have the same issue...but that can be worked around...
Drolet Heat Pro Install question
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Yep. Currently awaiting a response to email. I am wanting to get all the info I can before pulling the trigger and spending the money on the unit, but it is looking like the Drolet HP will be the path I take.
next would be all the questions about operation....
I'm pretty green when it comes to HVAC. Could you explain the static pressure and what you did to work around d it?
Static pressure is basically just pressure in your supply side, that slows the air down across the furnace...gives it time to pick up some heat. The easiest thing is to install dampers in the ducts to restrict things...or if you have adjustable registers, that will work too. There are a number of additional things...just depends on the situation...
next would be all the questions about operation....
This is a fun place to start learning if you have a few days to kill...
I am not sure I'm following you there.T1 did not use a plenum...but we seen how well that worked out!
It didn't use a plenum and SBI said that was part of the overheat/cracking issue...
Really, I thought it was similar to the Caddy where you had to build your own or have one built.
Well, they responded that the plenum is necessary as that is how the unit was tested and approved to function. Then tried to push a Caddy on me which won't happen in that price range.
I can understand a blanket statement of saying it is necessary, I just don't understand why. Why can't it just require a minimum square inch and static pressure regardless of ducting? Really complicates my install as my current setup is also my supply for my A/C
I can understand a blanket statement of saying it is necessary, I just don't understand why. Why can't it just require a minimum square inch and static pressure regardless of ducting? Really complicates my install as my current setup is also my supply for my A/C
Well I guess we could have predicted that response from the manufacturer. I myself would still do it, but bottom line if there would be a warranty issue and they see the supplied plenum was not used they have an easy out. Typical of most all manufacturers these days.
They do list in the manual the minimum number of 6" take offs that must be connected to other duct work or run to supply registers- I would think that as long as you don't restrict below that minimum you won't have a problem and I don't see that issue with your existing duct work, if anything it might have too much flow and require restricting some dampers at registers to achieve some static pressure. If the Heatpro has a temperature probe in the plenum, they might also be concerned with improper placement of that in a customer supplied plenum as well.
The max caddy is sold through dealers - I am guessing they allow more custom installs due to dealer support / pro installers to oversee these details vs the "big box store" or online marketed Tundra and HeatPro furnaces.
Bottom line - how much do you depend on warranties? Myself for a fairly simple appliance like a wood furnace - don't care about the warranty and will never need to use it. If a damper motor, blower motor, control board fails they will probably still cover that as long as you don't give them the ammo they need so they can say " oh you didn't use the factory supplied plenum - no warranty for you". You will also find the warranty on those items will be pretty short anyway.
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Yeah they don't have the lifetime warranty on the firebox like they used to...T1 cured that!
I'm like @3fordasho , I'd do it anyways, just make it as "right" as possible so that there's no issues...gotta get it past the HO ins. then too...
This is my line of thought too. My current setup has a manual damper which I restrict some flow to the upstairs when heating and remove when cooling.
would think HO ins would like a new, safer, more efficient unit than that old tank in there now I was using.Yeah they don't have the lifetime warranty on the firebox like they used to...T1 cured that!
I'm like @3fordasho , I'd do it anyways, just make it as "right" as possible so that there's no issues...gotta get it past the HO ins. then too...
Yes, that's true...but since you are switching it out they will want to make sure all the modern standards/codes are met too...looks like you shouldn't have much trouble with that since its not too close to anything...would think HO ins would like a new, safer, more efficient unit than that old tank in there now I was using.
Right but no real info on it in the manual for us US folk. Is it to be assumed it is all good?
I am sure they were quoting you MSRP prices. When I bought my Caddy, I paid a lot less than MSRP. Going through a mom and pop dealer and paying in greenbacks also helps in the price department.
Page 8 of the manual gives a clear schematic and requirements for blower capacity, return air, duct clearances, and SP.
That's a pathetic smoke screen; the lack of a plenum had nothing to do with the cracking.
I'd scrap that plenum in a heartbeat and slide the appliance right under that ductwork. As noted, you'll want some type of cold air return hooked into the heat envelope. I did mine with powered dampers in the main HVAC return side and a fairly simple control system consisting of RIB relays and digital temp controllers.
You're on the right track.
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