Drolet HT 2000 and Englander NC30

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

corey148

Member
Oct 4, 2012
29
Western MD
Hello everyone hope you all are having a great Thanksgiving! Been doing research on both of these stoves and wondering how long would these stoves last burning 24/7 from November to April. I have heard good reviews on these stoves just trying to hear input from individual owners. Also is the baffle system on these stoves the same or are they different or which one is better? Finally, how long are you guys getting on burn times. Thanks and the questions are finished. Thanks for any input!!
 
Imho i sold drolet for 2 years and would not recommend,
 
Can you provide some details Marty. There are lots of happy Drolet owners here and the HT2000 seems to be one of their best made models.
 
I dont mean to bash ,sold them for a local building supply company and had some unhappy customers about the build quality, and after selling them and myself owning an enviro and personal friends that have pacific energy and regency, there are better choices then drolet but each to his own
 
Not going to disagree, but at half the price Drolet provides a good value.
 
well it has been a few years since I sold them but just in the showroom we had broken door handles and lots of the welds were cracked , maybe they had a big shakeup at the factory and things are better now I don`t know but you get what you pay for and corey 148 was looking for a stove to burn 24/7 so that is why I won`t recommend drolet
 
The Drolet uses a "c-cast" ceramic baffle which should be more durable than the ceramic fiber boards in the 30-NC. I don't know. The baffles in my 30-NC were in it when I bought the stove new in 2006 and they ain't looking like they are tired yet. Burn times are so relative they don't even bear discussing. In cold climates you are gonna burn hot and burn times, whatever they mean, will be shorter than in warmer climates. Like here in the Tropics of Northern Virginia.

All I can offer is last night's load. I loaded the 30-NC with dry oak, E/W, last night at 8:30 pm. The house was at around 72 degrees since I had been burning all day and it got down to the mid-twenties last night. I got up really late this morning, 10:00 am, and the stove top was around 325 and both floors of the house were in the seventies. I decided not to reload and just let the electric heaters have it for the day. By 3:00 pm I noticed that the house was still warm, the heaters hadn't kicked in, and the two EcoFans on the stove were still spinning. We topped out at a cloudy 43 today. They stopped spinning while we were having dinner between five and six. After dinner I opened the stove and raked a pile of coals from the back of the 150 degree stove, put in a few splits and away she went.

YMMV.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WriteNoob
To provide a humble, but dissenting, opinion. I'm on week 2 of burning in a Drolet Baltic (3.1 cf), and couldn't be happier, with this stove. $1000 got me a well designed, if basic stove. It's extremely easy to control, and has full shielding, a useful bypass feature, and an excellent air wash to keep the glass clean. Got a seven hour burn, on a 3/4 load of pine, this morning, keeping my 1,500 square ft., 1923 story-and-a-half at 69-74 degrees, with an outside temp of -2* F.

It's not a beauty, and in fact, it's basic and minimalist aesthetic is part of its charm, for me. It has no fancy automated air controls, but it's so darned easy to use that my wife, who's never touched a wood stove, figured it out by trial and error over the course of a weekend. I regularly burn at 600* F, stovetop (just coming down from such a burn, now), and the 5/16" flat top has no discernible warping. To each his own, and I like the heavier, prettier, and more complicated stoves, too. But, for a basic, capable, and easy to use unit, I don't think one could ask for better. Knowing my nature, this will likely end up as my 'starter stove', but I wouldn't be afraid of keeping it for many years, if needs be.

Again, just one guys opinion. Others my differ, but my own Drolet has surpassed expectations.
 
We hear remarkably few negative posts here about problems with them. The HT2000 is working 24/7 in many homes as is the Englander 30NC.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WriteNoob
I think between the two stoves it comes down to the one you want to look at 365 days a year and how the particular stove and clearances fit into your installation requirements.

I would heat this joint with either one of them. Well, except that the Drolet HT wouldn't fit in my fireplace like the 30-NC does.

I would call Drolet and Englander customer support and get a feel for their responsiveness. Just like you would with buying a stove from a dealer.
 
  • Like
Reactions: WriteNoob
The Drolet Myriad is more of a comparison for the NC30.
The actual firebox sizes on these two stoves are about the same. I think the NC30 is like a usable 20 inch by 20 inch box.
The Myriad is like a 20.5 inch by 18.5 inch box.
The Myriad is listed in its manual as a 3.3 cu ft stove but drolet advertise it more conservatively as a 3.1 .
I have read that the NC30 is advertised as a 3.5 and is more like a 3.2

The HT2000 is a bigger stove than the NC30 at 3.93 cuft firebox.
Firebox Size W x D (in.)22 7/8 x 17 1/4 x 14 1/2 (3.93 cu. ft.)
Looks like the HT2000 is more of a east west loader of 22 " Logs.
As to load north south you would need to cut your wood 17 inches or shorter.
Most wood sellers cut to 18" on average.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: WriteNoob
Status
Not open for further replies.