Dutchwest 2460

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Bostontom

New Member
Feb 3, 2013
50
South shore ma
Hello all made a purchase last year and got a dutchwest 2460 with a converter in it. First question is the ul on the back says warnock hersey so I'm wondering if this is a vermont castings stove. My second question is this is year 2 of burning I've done a lot of research and talked to a lot of people on how to's and how not to's. When I first bought the stove for $600 I took it apart just to get a look at inspect everything looked good seals and ropes all tight nothing bent or warped. I had a stainless liner run with a cap professionally installed. My father has a vc resolute that I've never had a prob burning with. I say that because since I bought this stove I'm having a truly difficult time burning in this stove due to what I think is over heating. When I first got it I had the stove running around 5 or 600 and the cat glowing red on the inside to the point it looked like there was a light on inside after the first few burns I've really struggled. My wood is dry seasoned and as soon as it hits the coals ignites. When the stove hits 4 or 500 I close the damper to engage the cat. I try to leave the primary air cracked and the secondary air open a 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn. The stove sill seems to over heat to about 800 or so. I close the primary air then I get the back puffing. Even if I can maintain a good temp by the time the wood turns to coals it will then start overheating after 4 or 5 hrs of good burning. I've heard of people drilling extra holes for the primary air I've heard of people putting a second damper in the stainless pipe I'm just kind of at a loss. I have about 20 ft if vent pipe straight shot all the way up with a cap. I live about 70 yards from the ocean so I do get a good breeze. Any advice from other owner would be awesome thanks. And once again yes the wood is dry and seasoned seals/ropes are good.
 
Warnock Hersey is the name of a testing lab, not of a stove. There is no such thing as a Warnock Hersey Stove....

If is is a Dutchwest made post-1990 or so, it's made by Vermont Castings The 2460 appears to be a modern model, so you are A-OK there.

My guess is that you have an overdraft situation and need to install a turn or barometric damper in the stove pipe to help even out the draft (cut it down, in your case).
 
That's what I was thinking too but just want to get opinions before I go tearing this thing apart I just pulled it apart again to look at the ropes the look a little ummm pressed. I started the fire smelled smoke in the house closed the door and all air controls to see if I could snuff the fire but it just kept going I think it's a combo of a bad gasket and draft. Havn't heard of a barometric damper. This is why I ask
 
I just had a draft issue and had to install a damper. In the end I have increased my burn times significantly. Boston you may want to consider one to remove the back puffing...
 
When I first got the stove I bought 2 cords of red oak. With a stacked stove I was getting 10 hr burns no problem. I don't know what it is but now I'm down to a 5 hour burn. I appreciate the help I'm def going to do the ropes. And I think a barometric damper in I don't have a lot of room to access the liner
 
Can't figure why you would, all of a sudden, go from 10 hr burns to 5 hr. Theres got to be more to it than that. Gaskets, or other air leaks and a damper would all come to mind as possible solutions
 
Yah that's why I pulled everything apart tonight. Granted it was sitting all summer closed I never did the gaskets when I bought it. Maybe time for an over haul before it gets too cold
 
Not sure an over haul is the answer, but a real good inspection may be in order.
 
Any tricks to help find leaks or bad gaskets. When I took the top off the stove there was ash and black flakey crap all over the refractory packing and inside the upper area of the stove. I'll take any tips I can get
 
insense sticks will help show air leaks.
 
has to be an air leak somewhere... 800 is way to hot closed down like that.

Do you still see a good amount of flames with the stove closed down? If you do more evidence to suggest a leak.

when did you check that catalyst last? Maybe its disintegrated?
 
I shut the stove down halfway thru the burn and still lots of flames so I must be leaking somewhere. I pulled everything apart last night the band around the cat is broken and the cat is destroyed. Not very happy to see that. I'm just gona take it apart. Install new ropes everywhere and a new cat. Maybe even the refractory packing it's not broken but I'm the type to just do everything so I have piece of mind. I still think I'm going to try to install another damper it's gona be tight not a lot of room I'll try to post pics later today
 
i also had a bunch of black flakey stuff on the refractory when i took the top off..same stove as you..i have ordered all new gaskets to try and see if that seals any air out..getting the same symptoms that you're getting
 
also, has anyone tried a stainless steel cat in this stove? if I replace mine, I am thinking about going SS rather than ceramic
 
also, has anyone tried a stainless steel cat in this stove? if I replace mine, I am thinking about going SS rather than ceramic

I switched to a steel cat 3-4 years ago, couldn't be happier. Lower lite off temps and predictability.
 
Hello all made a purchase last year and got a dutchwest 2460 with a converter in it. First question is the ul on the back says warnock hersey so I'm wondering if this is a vermont castings stove. My second question is this is year 2 of burning I've done a lot of research and talked to a lot of people on how to's and how not to's. When I first bought the stove for $600 I took it apart just to get a look at inspect everything looked good seals and ropes all tight nothing bent or warped. I had a stainless liner run with a cap professionally installed. My father has a vc resolute that I've never had a prob burning with. I say that because since I bought this stove I'm having a truly difficult time burning in this stove due to what I think is over heating. When I first got it I had the stove running around 5 or 600 and the cat glowing red on the inside to the point it looked like there was a light on inside after the first few burns I've really struggled. My wood is dry seasoned and as soon as it hits the coals ignites. When the stove hits 4 or 500 I close the damper to engage the cat. I try to leave the primary air cracked and the secondary air open a 1/4 to 3/4 of a turn. The stove sill seems to over heat to about 800 or so. I close the primary air then I get the back puffing. Even if I can maintain a good temp by the time the wood turns to coals it will then start overheating after 4 or 5 hrs of good burning. I've heard of people drilling extra holes for the primary air I've heard of people putting a second damper in the stainless pipe I'm just kind of at a loss. I have about 20 ft if vent pipe straight shot all the way up with a cap. I live about 70 yards from the ocean so I do get a good breeze. Any advice from other owner would be awesome thanks. And once again yes the wood is dry and seasoned seals/ropes are good.

The temps you describe, are they stove top or Cat probe temps? 800F Cat probe temps are not too high.
 
I switched to a steel cat 3-4 years ago, couldn't be happier. Lower lite off temps and predictability.

Thanks...I've read conflicting reports of the steel cats..some people love them, or some have had issues after the first year or so..The pros seem to outweigh the cons though
 
The 800 is stove temp not cat I know cat temps can range from 5 to 1200 or so but I think there's a good leak somewhere causing the stove to burn hot and fast
 
I'd love any info on a cat and where to get a good one for a good price

This is what I'm using, no sign of degradation yet after 3+ years of service.
(broken link removed to http://www.woodstovecombustors.com/dutchwest_new.html)

My install; rear vent into straight up 6 in. SS liner 32 ft. tall. With the steel cat I wait 'til the cat probe reads 400-450 F and rising, close damper, when cat probe nears 750 F start shutting down primary air. Secondary air set at 1/2 turn...always. I have no stove top thermometer, I monitor with an IR gun.
 
Where are you measuring the stove temp? I have been running a 2462 for about a year and was having some of the same concerns. I was measuring temps on top of the stove between the combuster area and stove collar. I was getting 700+ readings here even though the fire looks well-behaved and the side door (where Dutchwest recommends you put your thermometer) is 500 or 600F. I'm thinking that with a 1200F cat temp, the area around it is going to get hot - no way around that. Maybe that is all that's happening with your stove.

So I was doing the same as you. Stove gets seemingly too hot then I dial back on the primary and the flame goes out and I get backpuffs. Lately I've just let it run it's course and everything seems fine. I don't dial it back so much.

So my questions for you are: 1) Where are you measuring stove temp? and 2) What does the fire look like?
 
I was measuring on the door my once brightly colored thermometer is now just silver from over heating i was gettin 800' readings i put it on the collar and the collar is reading 5 or 600. The fire doesnt look bad lots of flame and the typical adjust the primary air temp goes down fire goes out and then poor we gt smoke we got fire and we hafte open the primary all the wayto avoid it again.
 
I have the 2461 (was here when we got the place), and it can be finnicky some times. I had similar troubles last year, re-did all the door, glass, and damper gaskets, and it solved all the over-firing problems. One night it over-fired (830F stove top) so bad that it burned what remained of the side door gasket into a pile of ash. Didn't sleep too well after that! The backpuffing is caused by closing the primary air down too fast, and starving the fire. I slowly back mine down with this stove, and it stays happy. We're in the market for a new/used stove, since this one appears to have been abused pretty badly.
 
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I have the 2461 (was here when we got the place), and it can be finnicky some times. I had similar troubles last year, re-did all the door, glass, and damper gaskets, and it solved all the over-firing problems. One night it over-fired (830F stove top) so bad that it burned what remained of the side door gasket into a pile of ash. Didn't sleep too well after that! The backpuffing is caused by closing the primary air down too fast, and starving the fire. I slowly back mine down with this stove, and it stays happy. We're in the market for a new/used stove, since this one appears to have been abused pretty badly.

What did you use to remove the old gasket cement?
 
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