I know several of you think I am an idiot but go easy on me today, any one remember what the summit does with a stuck EBT, I have a much bigger fire this morning and I can not get the stove top up to temp without the flue temp climbing along with it, I am going to freeze this winter.
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Another question, looking through the maze of secondaries I can see some flames out the back of the baffle plate in this normal?
madison
Minister of Fire
Spark, depending on your summit config. you can eyeball the ebt flap valve from below, to see it's current position and you could see if it changes with time.
I just glanced at the online manual and there is a gasket between the ebt and stove body, so it (? possibly) might be a source of extra air getting into the fire if it is not sealing correctly???, and if you have the optional ash chute, it most definately can be a source of excess air.
You can aluminum foil each to rule out the problems.
I just glanced at the online manual and there is a gasket between the ebt and stove body, so it (? possibly) might be a source of extra air getting into the fire if it is not sealing correctly???, and if you have the optional ash chute, it most definately can be a source of excess air.
You can aluminum foil each to rule out the problems.
madison
Minister of Fire
yep, most like due to the OEM baffle gasket deterioration, don't think its a big deal, there is picture in the sig link below of secondaries inthe back with a "hog gasket" in place of the torn up OEMoldspark said:
I dont know what it is but I think the stove just isnt right, flue temps and stove top temps go up together no matter what I do, I thought it was the smaller fires but this morning I have the same issue with a nice sized fire, it acts like the EBT is opening and closing as the fire takes off once in a while like you hit a "passing Gear".
Was the baffle gasket replaced when the stove was cleaned? If not, make one up or get some from your dealer. Flames should not be bypassing the baffle at the back or sides of the baffle. You can tell right away if the EBT is stuck open. Use a mirror to see under the stove or lie on your back and look at it upside down. But the symptoms described don't sound like it. After the fire has settled into say an hour of a steady burn, what temps are you reading on the stove top and at the flue? Sorry if you are having to repeat this, but also, where are you reading the temps?
Nevermind, I found the original thread:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/55233/
Nevermind, I found the original thread:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/55233/
Stove is new, baffle has never been out, the stove top and flue stay about 50 degrees apart after an hour or so, now after 2 hours the stove top is about 100 degrees above stove top, 400 flue and 500 stove top, flue temp sensor is 18 inches above stove and the stove top is in the center of where the trivet is supposed to be as I took it off.BeGreen said:
Yes blower is on but how am I ever going to get a hotter stove top as I can not do it because the flue temp shoots up with the stove top, when I back off the primary air the stove top and flue both go down in temp, not sure how I will ever see a 700 degree stove.BeGreen said:
The stove top is pretty hot. Turn off the blower and I bet it will rise about 100-150 within 10 minutes. That should match what I am seeing without the blower. 650 stove top, 400 flue.
Is that a probe or surface mount thermometer, I can tell you this if I would have put that much wood in my old stove it would have been a lot warmer in the house. I did turn the fan off but the fire is dying down and no time to play with it any more.BeGreen said:
madison
Minister of Fire
BeGreen said:
yep, turn the fan off, and throw a bunch of small DRY splits in a hot stove and shut the air down right away and you will see > 700.
BG --a few yrs ago, didn't you have a graph of time and stove+stack temps ? which is exactly what Spark is struggling with - I couldn't find it with a search....
The graph would be nice, I threw in a few small splitts and the flue temp climbed up fast and had to back off the primary air all the way, It did not cool down at all for several minutes so I can see where you could get into trouble with the over fireing, with the fan off I had a stove top of 625 (hottest ever been) but the flue was 450 or so. There is flames under the baffle in the back so is the new gasket in my new stove shot and could this be part of the problem or not a big deal? Part of my confusion is all these posts I have read on here the last 8 months where it seemed like the stoves ran differently than what I am seeing.
Yes, I'll try to find it when I have some time or if I can remember what the topic was. burn times?
Sparks, I have a probe thermometer in double-wall pipe. Methinks you are angsting too much about flue temps and under fueling the stove. I don't put in small spits except for kindling. Most of the time my splits are in the 7-10" range. 3-4 splits during shoulder season burning and full loads during winter. From what has been reported, it sounds like the stove is working fine, but you have decades of experience with an older radiant stove and are not happy with a convective stove because it doesn't 'feel' as hot. That could very well be so. If the goal was to match the old stove, perhaps a more radiant stove like the Lopi Liberty or 30NC would have been a better choice. But I would go through a full season before deciding that.
Sparks, I have a probe thermometer in double-wall pipe. Methinks you are angsting too much about flue temps and under fueling the stove. I don't put in small spits except for kindling. Most of the time my splits are in the 7-10" range. 3-4 splits during shoulder season burning and full loads during winter. From what has been reported, it sounds like the stove is working fine, but you have decades of experience with an older radiant stove and are not happy with a convective stove because it doesn't 'feel' as hot. That could very well be so. If the goal was to match the old stove, perhaps a more radiant stove like the Lopi Liberty or 30NC would have been a better choice. But I would go through a full season before deciding that.
madison
Minister of Fire
November 2008, direct link to thread, Spark read the entire thread it addresses i think, your concerns: https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/29533/#310821
And the graph.
And the graph.
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Thanks for your patience, I am not going to ramble any more as even I am getting tired of me, still not sure about this stove and hope I can keep from getting cold this winter, the stove puts out a lot of heat as it was very hot at 600 stove top but getting it there was a baby sitting thing.
Thanks madision the graph is nice, the thread was interesting, I wonder if a damper could limit the flue temps some what but I do not think I have a super draft so not sure I want to do that. I have to ship this computer in and other one is a POS so may not be online for a few days. have a good one
Todd
Minister of Fire
Keep at it Oldspark, it will take some trial and error figuring out that new stove. The shoulder season doesn't help either, once your burning 24/7 with full loads it will be a different story.
Also seems to be some confusion on stack temps verses stove top temps. There will be differences with everyones setup. Begreen has double wall and uses a probe to measure internal flue temps, others like me use a magnetic thermometer for single wall pipe to measure the external temps. The difference ROUGHLY is internal temps are double the external but this can vary by a couple hundred degrees depending on where the thermometers are, height of chimney, blower, load size, and other variables.
Sould external stack temps be lower than stove top after everything settles down and your cruising? Yes. When everything is coming up to temp they may be closer together.
Also seems to be some confusion on stack temps verses stove top temps. There will be differences with everyones setup. Begreen has double wall and uses a probe to measure internal flue temps, others like me use a magnetic thermometer for single wall pipe to measure the external temps. The difference ROUGHLY is internal temps are double the external but this can vary by a couple hundred degrees depending on where the thermometers are, height of chimney, blower, load size, and other variables.
Sould external stack temps be lower than stove top after everything settles down and your cruising? Yes. When everything is coming up to temp they may be closer together.
I've tried to follow this through this thread and other other PE thread. What exactly is the issue? I would think that flue gas temp would indeed rise with stove top temps, just like in the graph above. Are you saying that your stove does or does not exhibit this behavior? If I read what you are saying, you think the stove should run much hotter than the flue gases? Vice versa? In that graph, they seem to track one another relatively well, as I would think. Forgive any ignorance and misunderstanding on my part, please.
My flue temps are way higher that stove top for 2 hours or more, have to keep a close eye on the stove, it seems like it does not settle in very well, a lot of the posts about these new stove indicate they are easy to run but I have to baby sit the thing, not sure I can give the wife any advice on how to run it other than keep an eye on the flue temp. My old stove was ver consistent in operating but this one is a little persnickety!
Todd
Minister of Fire
I have a surface mount and a IR unit so I the temps are close, the flue temps head up to the orange on temp sensor 450 to 500 in a heart beat while the top struggles to come up to temp. A lot of my questions stemmed from people just watching the stove top temps, If I did that I woud bury the stack temp sensor before I ever got to a decent stove top temp. BG's graph show his temps some what the same for 2 hours but mine are not, If I back off the primary to keep the flue temps in line the top just takes for ever to get up to temp. Some times I do not think I am speaking english because people are having a hard time understanding what I am asking. I thought it was a straight forward question but I dont know any more.
oldspark said:
Okay, I am following you better now. I was thinking you were saying the two temps should have no relation or that they should have an inverse relationship. I've never measured my flue temps, and it may be a good thing. I am classic Type A (or whatever the DSM calls it now), so it would be something else to worry and obsess over. I may end up as bad as Soupy. :lol:
However, I can say that I've learned the sweet spot on my stove, and though each load may require slightly different behaviors, it always seems to settle into that sweet spot. I've probably had 3 fires that I consider "run away" in that the stove top hit 800 and didn't come down for a bit. Otherwise she cruises at 650F. Hopefully between the boys/girls here and at PE, you'll be sorted.
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