Econoburn 150 Nozzle replacement

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b33p3r

Feeling the Heat
Hearth Supporter
Jan 29, 2008
286
NE Pa
This year will be my 5th season and I've noticed significant erosion of the nozzle. I probably should have done something about it this summer but didn't. Next summer I will need to replace the nozzle and was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the nozzle on an econoburn and if so maybe some incites as to what I'm in for?
In the meantime I'll probably get some steel plate to lay over the nozzle for this year just to cut down on the ash and clunkers in the secondary chamber. Anyone see an issue with adding steel plate?
 
This year will be my 5th season and I've noticed significant erosion of the nozzle. I probably should have done something about it this summer but didn't. Next summer I will need to replace the nozzle and was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the nozzle on an econoburn and if so maybe some incites as to what I'm in for?
In the meantime I'll probably get some steel plate to lay over the nozzle for this year just to cut down on the ash and clunkers in the secondary chamber. Anyone see an issue with adding steel plate?
Emailed Dale and within minutes he replied. The nozzle on the econoburn 150 can be replaced in 1.5 hours by the owner. The reps can do the job in 20 minutes but they do it on a regular basis. anyway, got my question answered. $85.00 for a new nozzle and 1.5 (I'll give myself 2 hours) hours labor and good to go. The replacement nozzle comes with instructions. Dale also commented that a steel cover over the nozzle will warp due to heat. Cast would hold up better
 
1.5 hours, must be a major task. I would do it before this season starts and everything is cool...replacing mid season is no fun...don't ask how I know!
 
I did the firebrick overlay. Works great. Might think about doing that over your replacement. The wear will happen to the 'disposable' firebrick. Wish I had done that from the start with mine. There are a few post about this just search around
 
In the process of getting new nozzle. I plan on installing right away. Already burning but temps so mild I'll just shut it down and get it done. Once replaced I would like to install something to protect the nozzle but something that is much easier to replace such as firebrick. I'll look around for posts about fire brick. Thanks!
 
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/eko-orlan-model-25-nozzle-plate.127309/#post-1712938

There is a video I made of the nozzle plate I made for my Eko.

The nozzle plate has not warped in over a years use. There were a couple of minor cracks, which I simply welded.

Stainless steal hardens when exposed to heat.

Carbon steel is a waste of time since it will flake and quickly degrade.

The ceramic nozzle is like-new with over a years use and I doubt I will have to replace it ever again.

I have a spare nozzle plate sitting next to the boiler just in case...but so far I have not had to use it.

Regards,

JT Wall
 
JT, Thanks for this timely reminder. I forgot that old, valuable thread. For those of you using firebrick, how do you cut it? I don't have anything like a tile cutter.
 
JT, Thanks for this timely reminder. I forgot that old, valuable thread. For those of you using firebrick, how do you cut it? I don't have anything like a tile cutter.
I bet a masonry blade in your circular saw would work.
 
I had the best luck with a diamond blade in a circular hand saw and/or a 4.5 inch diamond blade in my angle grinder. I ran in to a batch of bricks that were either a different mix or were fired differently and produced a few rejects. Just as the blade was about half was through the brick, the heat caused the cut to become gummy and it stripped much of the diamond right out of the blade. I could only assume that the gummy material was fire clay that wasn't kicked out by the dust and accumulated on the blade as it heated up.

BTW: do this outside and pay attention to the wind direction
 
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Doesn't sound like cutting firebrick is much harder than plasma cutting steel. I have these types of saws around, just need to invest in a blade. I'm gonna look into it for this season. Thanks guys.
 
This year will be my 5th season and I've noticed significant erosion of the nozzle. I probably should have done something about it this summer but didn't. Next summer I will need to replace the nozzle and was wondering if anyone has ever replaced the nozzle on an econoburn and if so maybe some incites as to what I'm in for?
In the meantime I'll probably get some steel plate to lay over the nozzle for this year just to cut down on the ash and clunkers in the secondary chamber. Anyone see an issue with adding steel plate?


any pictures? I had no idea the nozzle was removable and am curious how it is removed
 
This thread got me curious about the nozzle in my Econoburn 150. I hadn't really given it a good look in a long time, so I was a bit surprised by what I saw. I sent pics to Dale, and he confirmed this was the amount of wear he'd expect for about 20 cords (3 seasons). He said he'd go another season with it, though I may change in before then and add a 'prophylactic' to it.
[Hearth.com] Econoburn 150 Nozzle replacement
 
Mine is not far off from the picture you show. I don't have a picture of mine at the moment. I may just wait til next season to replace mine judging by what Dale said about yours. I think I'll add some fire brick or steel plate for this year and replace next spring when I have more time to monkey with it.
 
Have you guys ever noticed the ceramic nozzle during a burn, just glowing red. No wonder they wear, I also wonder if the high air volume from the non adjustable fan causes more wear.

gg
 
Have you guys ever noticed the ceramic nozzle during a burn, just glowing red. No wonder they wear, I also wonder if the high air volume from the non adjustable fan causes more wear.

gg

I assume you mean the bottom glows red? I've never really looked, but I will. As far as air volume, there is an adjustable shutter on the fan. I've never tried adjusting it, though. I'm not even sure I'd know how to judge when it was set properly.
 
There is also fan speed adjustments via the dip switches on the controller. Well the older controller anyway. When I first got mine Dale had me change the fan speed. It runs a bit slower than default setting.
 
I assume you mean the bottom glows red? I've never really looked, but I will. As far as air volume, there is an adjustable shutter on the fan. I've never tried adjusting it, though. I'm not even sure I'd know how to judge when it was set properly.


No the firebox side of the nozzle will be red hot under the coals. It will look like a molten piece of steel.

gg
 
Has anyone actually replaced the nozzle?


I plan on doing mine soon. I have been patching it with refractory cement to keep the slot squared up and proper size. It makes a noticeable difference in the heat the boiler puts to storage.

gg
 
This thread got me curious about the nozzle in my Econoburn 150. I hadn't really given it a good look in a long time, so I was a bit surprised by what I saw. I sent pics to Dale, and he confirmed this was the amount of wear he'd expect for about 20 cords (3 seasons). He said he'd go another season with it, though I may change in before then and add a 'prophylactic' to it.
View attachment 139560
Mine looks about the same as fahmahbob's. I think i will change mine before i start burning this season.I have a new nozzle but didn't end up with directions.Does anyone have the directions they could post or send me?
Thanks Thomas
 
Mine looks about the same as fahmahbob's. I think i will change mine before i start burning this season.I have a new nozzle but didn't end up with directions.Does anyone have the directions they could post or send me?
Thanks Thomas

I just got my kit in.Instructions are pretty basic (just peeked before leaving for work this AM) - knock out old nozzle with hammer and chisel, put in new nozzle, and put plastic tubes into the secondary air holes (so refacotry doesn't ooze in) and cover tube ends with duct tape, pack around nozzle with new refactory, let set 24-48 hours. It doesn't say anything aobout how to get the plastic tubes out afterwards, I'm hoping that will be easier than it seems.
 
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