Getting ready to build a very economical pole shed for wood and tractor. I have acquired several 10 and 12ft power poles for posts. Not quite long enough but it is what it is so only 2ft goes in the ground on a cap block. This will be nothing but a flat slanted roof with some boards on the sides with gaps for good air flow. Looks like I can do a 12'x32'. Never built one but I HAVE to get my wood out of the weather and the tractor covered with a tarp out of the driveway. Feel free to chime in with ideas or any " hey stupid your way wrong" ideas. Biggest concern I guess will be pole rot.
Economical wood shed with power poles
- Thread starter oilstinks
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SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
Are you sure 2' deep is enough for WNC? I know it does snow out in Boone and Asheville from time to time.
Grizzerbear
Minister of Fire
I would buy some sauna tubes that are a little bigger than your power poles . I would dig about 3 foot.....guessing that's your frost line?????...... and pour concrete piers for your poles with at least 3' in the ground and an extra 6" at your high point of slope above ground. Make the rest level with it of course. When you do set two 2' or longer pieces of angle in each pier down in the concrete with at least a foot of each piece in the concrete. Make sure you ste them where they will set against the outside of your poles. Blow or drill two holes in each angle so that they match up and then drill the bottom of your power poles so that you can set them on top of the piers and bolt them to the angles. That gives you more height and makes them easily replaced if they ever go bad.
Edit: I would personally put some x bracing in the sides that you wouldn't need to have access through and in the ceiling as well if I was to do this. That would help stiffen it since the poles wouldn't be locked in the ground. If you wanted you could also use some steel shims between the pole bases and the piers so the bottoms of your poles can get air underneath and won't stay wet when it rains. They would probably last forever.....or longer than you will need them like that.
Edit: I would personally put some x bracing in the sides that you wouldn't need to have access through and in the ceiling as well if I was to do this. That would help stiffen it since the poles wouldn't be locked in the ground. If you wanted you could also use some steel shims between the pole bases and the piers so the bottoms of your poles can get air underneath and won't stay wet when it rains. They would probably last forever.....or longer than you will need them like that.
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EbS-P
Minister of Fire
I think there is the right way way and a fast way. I was considering an 8x16 using landscaping timbers. I decided that fast was better than right and that I didn’t want to dig holes for the posts. I was just going to build side / bay walls and stand them up, and tie together with back wall and headers for roof. Level it with solid concrete blocks.
If i was parking a tractor underneath it I would dig holes and dryset posts in sackcreete. Put some gravel in the bottom of the hole. Power poles last a long time without rotting if they are treated.
If i was parking a tractor underneath it I would dig holes and dryset posts in sackcreete. Put some gravel in the bottom of the hole. Power poles last a long time without rotting if they are treated.
Frostline is 18" I believe. I had intended to dig the hole bigger and put wash gravel around them. One pole is probably a 14" diameter covered in creasote which will probably last forever.
Grizzerbear
Minister of Fire
I use them all the time for brace and corner posts for fence. Especially the original bottoms of the power poles. Honestly they will last your lifetime most likely and probably longer. I'm not sure of the term wash gravel. Around here the norm for post setting and driveways is what we call 1" base. If tamped when setting the post it sets like concrete.
Wash gravel is just that washed gravel. Gravel with sand/fines which we call road bond around here
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Brace it with diagonals towards the other wall (e.g. 2*4s - probably the most expensive part...) And you'll be fine. I have my (4*4) posts simply on deck blocks (floor attached, weighed down by the firewood).
Swapped out changing a starter on a friends truck for 17 reclaimed 2x6x12 which will be the roof. Due to my post height I am only dropping the roof 1ft in the back which doesn't give me much slope but should be enough with a metal roof.
EbS-P
Minister of Fire
Got rafters toenailed today. Need to pick up some hurricane ties since this is in a spot where the wind comes up the holler ( This is correct spelling on that one. It is not a hollow). Looks like metal will be $300 for the roof. Still looking for used. Missed some last week for $125. Still not sure on the sides if I enclose at all. May put some boards long ways and leave space between them.
Going to be real nice when you get it finished and it will hold a lot of wood as well...Did not know about metal roofs on wood sheds and that is interesting to me...Good Job...clancey
I've looked for reclaimed barn roof metal but the trend of putting it in homes has increased the second hand price substantially. Just plain Jane 3ft wide metal is $2.95 per linear ft over next to Johnson City TN.
Now could you use anything like these--only maybe getting better prices or even maybe e-bay--would they do the job and how about those plastic roofs like awnings or something would they help to make a cover over your beautiful wood shed area..Just ideas here but that price you gave is expensive over each linear ft--these pictures are plain jane too ...clancey
That stuff is so expensive and wanted you to look at these terrible prices...lol lol
That stuff is so expensive and wanted you to look at these terrible prices...lol lol
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It is $2.95 per 3ftx1ft so what I need for a 20x12 and a 1ft overhang front and back is just under $300 plus tax. I'm still looking for used before by roofing guy puts the order in.
Sounds like a good plan..but did not realize how expensive this was but wonderful protection too..clancey
If it's a windy spot, as stated earlier, you may consider putting a x brace on the underside of rafters....from front corner post to opposite back post, then repeat the other side.....finished it will make a letter x . It will help with racking of the wind and stability when your up there putting your roof metal on. I'm sure that you are aware that you will also need to strap the top of your rafters 24" o.c. to screw your metal down.....rough cut 1×4 will work for you since there won't be a snow load.
Instead of buying g the hurricane clips you can use 2×4 pieces that are nailed into your plate and then nailed into your rafter.
These are referred to as soldier braces if you want to look up for a visual reference.
May save a few more bucks if you have so.e 2x4 kicking around
These are referred to as soldier braces if you want to look up for a visual reference.
May save a few more bucks if you have so.e 2x4 kicking around
SpaceBus
Minister of Fire
This is what I do, but I make 2x2's for the rafters. I made my own trusses for a chicken coop with 1x material for plates/gussets and used 2x2 for soldier braces, which is a term I learned today.
Yep stripping the top is next on the list. Got 6 12ft 2x4 treated and 2 10ft 4x4 for mowing a yard today which took about 30min to do.
Isaac Carlson
Minister of Fire
Looking good. I just took down a wood shed that was made with 4x4's, tji joists, and steel roof. It was about 16x34.
I have the whole thing stacked up out back. I have a pile of power poles to use and a mill if I need to mill anything.
I figured I would make a wood shed and then a car parking shelter if there is any left over. I have some more used steel in a shed too, so no shortage of roofing metal.
I have the whole thing stacked up out back. I have a pile of power poles to use and a mill if I need to mill anything.
I figured I would make a wood shed and then a car parking shelter if there is any left over. I have some more used steel in a shed too, so no shortage of roofing metal.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
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