Efel Coal Stove and a lot of Ash

[timbar]

I have a used Efel Coal Stove. When it's time to rake the ash through the grate, I am having to rake the ash with a homemade steel rake stick and it just doesn't seem to move the ash through the grates. I don't know the model of the stove. Anyone have a suggestion on what may be happening?

 

[berlin]

what kind of coal are you burning ? it may be high ash anthricite in which case it is a poor choice to use in your stove.

 

[Webwidow]

The Efel Coal stove had a slicing knife which was used, not a rake. If memory serves me, there were slots in the lower font of the stove where one inserted the coal slicing knife.A slicing back and forth and sideways motion was used, which made the ash dump into the ash pan. The slots were not in the front loading door as that door must always stayed closed!
This was a hopper fed stove that needed anthracite pea size coal. However, there was a retrofitted coal conversion kit for the Efel wood stove that sat inside the fire box. A nasty thing that never worked well.

 

[timbar]

I picked up a flat piece of 1" x 3/16" x 36" thick piece of steel at Home Cheapo yesterday for a slicing knife. Seams to be working better. I am using supposedly a low ash pea sized coal from the coal regions of north central Pennsylvania. The ash in the stove seems to be of such great quantity, that there's not enough weight from the coal above the ash to push the ash down.

Thanks for all the replys.

 

[Webwidow]

. The ash in the stove seems to be of such great quantity, that there's not enough weight from the coal above the ash to push the ash down.

A few more things to look into:
1- Hopper setting- for pea coal hopper should be fixed in the middle setting.Yes the hopper setting can be changed for different size coal. Rice coal lowest setting. Nut coal very upper.

2- Making certain the draft control is functioning- Turn the dial and look to see if the draft valve is opening and closing.√

3- MOST IMPORTANTLY AIR LEAKS√- Assuming that everything is OK, it appears to me that you might have unwanted air leakage into your stove. Next step is to check your gasket. Especially around the top hopper door. I think that was a wire wrapped gasket. Good idea to replace it anyway, make certain that the lip shuts tight and is not raised after replacing gasket. Next since this is an old stove look inside the stove at the seams, you may need to glob furnace cement inside the seams to tighten it up.

Oh one last thought, I assume you are dumping the ash pan out daily, cause a full ash pan will screw up the draft and weird out the burn pattern.

And another last thing, call the place where you purchased your coal and ask them to fax you the "certified ash content" of their coal. This is common practice when burning coal, especially if you are getting tons delivered

 

[timbar]

The hopper is in the highest position. I find I can get longer burn times when away from the house. Is my logic not quite right? Live with the high ash in order to have longer burning time?

 

[Webwidow]

You should get up to 14 hours with low heat output in the correct position. What are you experiencing? Has anything changed now that it is colder outside? Also where do you..in regards to temp.

 

[Webwidow]

I highly recommend that you install a barometric draft regulator into your stove pipe, if you haven't already. This auto-flap device regulates your draft and helps with proper burns, which is needed with hopper feed coal stoves.

 

[timbar]

Barometric draft regulator is installed. I keep the stove on a setting of 1 or 1.5. Current burn time is near the 14 hour range. Temps outside in the 40s by day and 30s at night. Stove is in the basement and heats a medium sized bi-level.

In the medium hopper position the stove burns for about 6-8 hours before major cooling takes place. Same stove setting of 1 to 1.5 on the knob.

I bought the stove used. Not sure what the previous owner's experience has been with this stove.

 

[webbie]

Pea is the middle setting - the hopper should be kept full when possible. See the article on European coal stoves at:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/hopper_fed_coal

Ash is not supposed to be pushed down by itself - only when you rake (or knife).....

14 hours is a good long burn- although when more heat is needed you might rake it as often as 4-6 hours. The stove will also act differently as the weather changes.

Also, make certain to inspect all parts for the telltale orange color or excess warpage - a sign that the part has been overfired.

 

[[email protected]]

IUsec an EFEL stove. Coal in general produces alot of ash. You are goinig to have to move the ashe out of the way with the knife to let the coal fall into the burning area of the stove.

 

[coldinnj]

I know nothing about your stove but the comments about the draft are correct. Look carefully for air leaks.
As to the coal, yes, quality of coal can make a huge difference.
In some areas it is very difficult to get high quality Anthracite anymore. As such some dealers are forced to sell "what they can get". Resulting in the consumer getting low grade coal. I never found a dealerthat admitted the problem was their coal. I had to go to the source of the coal, have testing done and then it was aknowledged and corrected. They then deliverd new coal to replace the bad load. Interesting how he dealer didn't like it though.
Another problem can be the temperature. I have seen it where a coal fire was going out or dying yet the person tried to keep it going. Instead of then getting a good burn going, it just burned partialy casusing the ash problem.