EKO 40 damper sticking

[Damammel]

Just wondering if anyone is having a problem with the damper sticking on their EKO. It seems that when the boiler gets below 160 F I have a tough time getting the damper open so I can open the upper door. I am thinking of adding a second lever that would give me better leverage in case it is stuck. I took off the side of the boiler today and used a large adjustable wrench to get it open. I don't want to break the linkage having to push so hard.

Thanks,
Derek

 

[Tree farmer]

If you do a search you will find quite a bit about sticky bypass dampers. Tarm shares the same issue most specifically when running these units without storage or if you are burning higher mc wood. You can pull the damper handle out sideways (it will bend a little) to get the door handle swung around and open the door. Pop the damper with the cleaning rod or a long piece of scrap 2x or the like. Make sure you only do this when the boiler is down to 170 or less so you don't get a face full of smoke. Another option is to pull the pin on the handle and flip it around, I'm still trying to get my pin out. Fellow coworker just installed a solo 30 with no storage and running into same issue.

 

[Damammel]

Thanks for the reply Tree farmer. I'll have to check it out. I might cut in another lever for better leverage.

 

[timberr]

Storage does reduce the problem but doesn't eliminate it. It seems that anytime a burn last more then 5-6 hrs with storage you run into the problem. It is that damn idle time.

 

[Kemer]

Damammel,I did that mod awhile ago and it works great.It was just too hard for my wife to do the 2x4 thing.You will have to make a triangler shaped plate to hook the spring up to with a slot for the arc of the movement but it is well worth the trouble.I forgot to mention you also have to extend the rod thru the side cover by welding a extension piece on.

 

[Eric Johnson]

The pin holding my handle in place was easy to drive out with a nail set. Maybe they've modified the design since my boiler was made, but that was the easy way to solve the problem for me. Just poke the damper open with a broom handle once you get the door open. Mine typically sticks at the end of the cycle (in the morning), so all I see when I open the door is a bed of coals.

 

[willworkforwood]

I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago with my Econoburn, and have been going after the creasote around the damper door and flue opening. When I have a quiet coal bed, I use a flashlight to highlight the damper opening in back, and then use a long handled, thin cleanout brush and a 3' x 1/4" threaded rod. I use the rod to quickly pull off any larger deposit (not too many of those), and the brush is to do a scrub around the opening. Gentle touch is needed with the rod because it would be happy to become a file. There's probably a better tool than the rod, but I don't have one. It takes about 1 minute, once a day or so, and haven't had the door stick since. Don't know if this is easy to do with EKO, but would guess the design is similar.

 

[solarguy]

For what it's worth, one of our customers said he put high temperature axle grease on the damper & it hasn't stuck for 4 weeks.
Personally I think you'd be better off to throttle down the fan shutter so you get a longer burn cycle.

Bob

 

[tacoma95]

New Eko 40 owner.

Have only been burning for 9 days, but the damper has stuck a few times. It has always opened with a a few open palm light taps. Have a 2x4 standing by.