Eko 40 homemade nozzle

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trumpeterb

Member
Hearth Supporter
Jul 15, 2009
110
Western PA
Well, 9 seasons later my nozzle is shot. Can't believe I got almost 9 years out of that thing. Before putting in a new refractor nozzle, I wanted to try and craft one from steel, based on some of the comments and advice I got from this forum. Here is what I came up with....I have the first fire starting now, and I can't wait to see if this works! BTW, be gentle....it was my very first attempt at welding anything...welding is not my forte...obviously.

[Hearth.com] Eko 40 homemade nozzle


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Hope it works well for you. Your first time welding looks just about identical to everyone else's first attempt, including mine.
 
Hope it works well for you. Your first time welding looks just about identical to everyone else's first attempt, including mine.

Works great so far. Gasifying very well, and the hot embers are no longer falling into the bottom chamber. I just hope it holds up to the heat and doesn't warp over time.


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Works great so far. Gasifying very well, and the hot embers are no longer falling into the bottom chamber. I just hope it holds up to the heat and doesn't warp over time.


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Looks like what I did. I think you will be very happy with the results
leaddog
 
Can you guys tell me what the nozzle dimensions are supposed to be. I inherited my EKO 40 last year and it is about 8 years old. It does look there is some nozzle wear, and I think more coals fall through than should, but I do not know what size to make the opening in the nozzle protector.
 
I made mine from 3/8” stainless plate. The slot was 3/4” wide. I waterjet cut it at work. It has two slots because when I had one long slot it warped and made the slot really wide, letting coals through. I made a similar plate for my Dads Eko 25. I also tried one with 1” holes. This did not work at all. Way too restrictive.
 
9 years on one nozzle is very good. I got 10 years on the nozzle for my Tarm, and I just replaced the nozzle and tunnel for the start of year 11. I question though the effectiveness of your nozzle regarding secondary air flow. The new nozzle I got for the Tarm is a lot more than a slot. The refractory with the slot include air inlets built into the nozzle and numerous small holes in the nozzle to admit secondary air. That air shoots right into the gas stream entering the nozzle, mixes with the gas, which then combusts in the tunnel.

Perhaps your old nozzle was not worn to the point of needing the entire replacement, and replacing only the slot on top of the old nozzle assembly is good enough. Also pay attention to wear under the slot, as excessive wear on that refractory can result in undesirable wear on other refractory components which can be quite expensive to replace in the future.