Hello, I went out to split a few logs today and during the process of the piston moving the electric motor quit. I will try to explain. In the line drawing there is a button that I push which engages the motor.
![[Hearth.com] Electric motor won't engage on Bilt-Hard splitter](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/electic-webp.343877/ "[Hearth.com] Electric motor won't engage on Bilt-Hard splitter")
Once the motor is running I can engage the piston. The button push is trying to engage the motor but won't. It seems to me as if the motor won't spin up even though I am providing the power. I highlighted the motor in red so it can be seen that it is separate from the button assembly. My skill level isn't the best. The splitter is less than a month old and I have contacted the company. Are there any electrical mavens out there that might offer some advice and/or knowledge? It's worked well on the logs I do until now. BTW it was -5 F when I tried this AM. I doubt that is to cold but what do I know? Thank You
Electric motor won't engage on Bilt-Hard splitter
- Thread starter SamOwens
- Start date
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Very possible that the temperature is your problem. Motor drives the hydraulic pump, fluid at that temp becomes almost like mollases. So the up shot is the motor hasn't got enough umph to run the pump under those conditions. if you can get in somewhere that you can put a space heater blowing on it and give a couple hours , that will likely get it running. just the friction created in the system should keep it going the rest of your work time. Only way around this is to change fluid to something designed for extreme cold. Your system is a momentary drive design Hydro pressure out -spring return which isn't going to be helpful in very cold conditions.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
You can buy little 120V or 12V heater pads that you can RTV onto something flat
120W Silicone Heater Pad Engine Block Hydraulic Tank Heating Plate Oil Pan Sump Tank Heater Pad with Plug : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
120W Silicone Heater Pad Engine Block Hydraulic Tank Heating Plate Oil Pan Sump Tank Heater Pad with Plug : Amazon.ca: Industrial & Scientific
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Put it inside to warm it up and try it again. Definitely plausible that it’s temperature related. Secondarily, sometime long extension cords can cause motor starting problems; so if you can plug it directly into an outlet that may help.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
Do you recall if the motor hummmmmed like it was stalled? In some cases it could trip the breaker or go out on thermal protection. If it did not make any sound at all it must be the control parts and it was not getting power.
When I press the button there is a hum. The garage is on it's own circuit and has only a few LED lights to run. With that info, when I press the run button, the splitter hums and the lights dim until I release the button. Interestingly, there is a button that appears to be a reset button ? which is on the housing that holds the start button.
If I could put it inside I would. Thing is the bugger weighs over 100 lbs and I am a weakling. No way I can get it up the back steps by myself.
That was the first thing I thought of. I went to the big box store yesterday to buy a heater attachment for my propane tank but did not because it stated "FOR OUTDOOR USE". I want something I can safely use in my garage. My garage is hardly sealed. When snow comes from the east it comes through every crack and accumulates but I just wasn't sure. I wish I had bought it now. Thanks for your reply
I have a heating pad
! I am going to slap it on there tomorrow. I like problem solvers. Thanks!! and thanks for the linkThe Mr Heater Big Buddy propane heater is OK to use indoors. A lot of the hardware stores, Tractor Supply Co, and other big box stores in my area carry them.
I keep one around with the hose and adapter for a 20# propane tank for emergency use or to heat up my garage if I need to work in it in the winter.
Note: you do get a good bit of moisture build-up if you run one in a well-sealed room for an extended time.
I keep one around with the hose and adapter for a 20# propane tank for emergency use or to heat up my garage if I need to work in it in the winter.
Note: you do get a good bit of moisture build-up if you run one in a well-sealed room for an extended time.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
page 7 has a typical electrical layout. KH is an overload with a reset red arrow. It is very confusing to me how it works but if the green arrow points to a switch that would make sense. It is a permanent capacitor start/run motor. It's possible the cap is bad if the pump is good
Edit - not sure how this works - do you press the start button to split (operates the ram) then release the start button? Anyway, if it humms I'd look at uncoupling the pump and retesting
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Had a splitter similar to yours. Once it got cold had the same issue as you. Couple of things to consider, 1) I changed my extension cord from a 14 gauge wires to 12 gauge wires(possibly 10 gauge, don’t remember) and more importantly 2) I wrapped the motor with a 120 Volt battery blanket a couple of hours before using the splitter.
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
The issue of voltage drop is real. Happened on a 20 gal air compressor I had. It ran fine in my garage, I sold it to a guy, and then got a call that it didn't work. He brought it back, and it worked fine. Then he told me he had used an extension cord. The cord could have been #16 as that is very common. The inrush is huge on some of those motors.
On page 8 there are two arrows. One points at a button that is pressed and held throughout the splitting operation. The second arrow points to a lever that moves the piston. Both must be held to split. Thank You for your reply
Whitenuckler
Minister of Fire
Ok - check all connections inside the electrical box, use a #12 Gauge extension cord (or no cord), warm it up ect, and if you need to uncouple the motor.
A friend of mine had one and he couldn't move it into his cabin out of the cold.
He was ready to toss it as it wouldn't work in the cold.
I suggested he change the fluid to synthetic ATF and that solved the problem for him
He was ready to toss it as it wouldn't work in the cold.
I suggested he change the fluid to synthetic ATF and that solved the problem for him
Warming the hydraulic fluid would probably be a first priority.
Agreed but the hydraulic oil reservoir is kind of a pain to get at. In my case the battery blanket was wrapped around the motor so the blanket did rest against the bottom of the ram and I presume heated some of the oil. My splitter sat in a garden shed, the only heat it ever saw was the battery blanket. At about -10C was the limit that it would work without heat.
[Deleted] That unit is hydraulic. If the motor just hums it could be electrically related, motor, contacts, switch, electrical supply. Most likely the humm is a motor jam/pump fail. Or capacitor if equipped. The lower button is likely an overload reset. Press it. If it is that cold, maybe it is frozen with ice or debris.
Hello Gang, After a few days off I got back to the splitter. I heard from Bilt - Hard and their suggestions mirrored what you guys suggested. It has warmed up nicely. A few days back I left the splitter in the sun (37 degrees) but no luck. Today it's warm again. Bilt-Hard suggested I open the bleed screw and press the reset button. The first time I pressed that mysterious non-referenced button it disappeared into the box it is attached to. I opened the bleed screw a few turns. Today I held the reset button casing as I pushed it and opened the bleed screw as far as I felt was safe to take it without it falling out. I watched the fan and darn if it wasn't giving it the old college try to get spinning so I just kept the button pressed despite my better judgement against forcing things (Thanks, Dad) and after about 5 seconds the bugger spun right up and I am back splitting. My lesson is to no longer split when it's 0 and to ask questions of knowledgeable folk such as I found here. Thanks.
That's great that you got going again!
there's a lot of ways to warm something up
One easy way is to throw a tarp over the thing that needs to be warmed up and direct exhaust (flexible duct, dryer vent hose, etc) from almost any combustion engine under there to warm everything up. Might take an hour. Condensation can sometimes be a problem using this method, so you have to run the warmed-up thing long enough to get rid of the condensation.
As already said, a change of fluid would be a good idea if you run that machine in the cold frequently.
Also, a heavy maul can be pretty effective splitting wood...and that would keep you warm too..🙄
there's a lot of ways to warm something up
One easy way is to throw a tarp over the thing that needs to be warmed up and direct exhaust (flexible duct, dryer vent hose, etc) from almost any combustion engine under there to warm everything up. Might take an hour. Condensation can sometimes be a problem using this method, so you have to run the warmed-up thing long enough to get rid of the condensation.
As already said, a change of fluid would be a good idea if you run that machine in the cold frequently.
Also, a heavy maul can be pretty effective splitting wood...and that would keep you warm too..🙄
