England Stove Works model 24FC

[EForest]

I recently acquired a (free) model 24fc/24ac england stove (circa1991).
It's a little rusty but all the moving parts and firebrick are in great shape.
We have an existing fireplace large enough to fit this unit inside (half way in).
My hopes are to remove the base :question: to give a little wiggle room above for flue pipe to pass thru damper plate.
With legs still attached I don't think this would be possible. Also I'm told the flue pipe needs to extend past the smoke chamber but no further. I'm assuming that 24 gauge single wall pipe should be all I would need because everything is withing an existing masonry chimney (or is it possible to use flexible stainless). I've downloaded the manual from the web but there was no reference to this type of installation. I should also mention the fireplace is in excellent condition (Circa 1988).
This might be a temporary installation as we plan to purchase a gassifier boiler next summer.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated. :red:

 

[stoveguy2esw]

for starters the bad news, that unit was never intended to be used as an insert. removal of the pedistal and installing this unit in such a fashion is illegal. now that the disclaimer is out of the way, the bypass damper on the unit is located pretty close to the back of the unit making it awkward at best to reach and operate without burning yourself. and as for the flue , the "stick a piece of pipe up the flue" aint gonna cut it either. the flue must be no more than 2X the diameter of the collar on the unit (6") so if more than that , and most fireplaces are, a liner would be required.

now the better news. that stove can be "rear flued" it has a removable plaque and collar that can be reversed to vent out the rear. a more logical method of installing this unit would be to see if you have clearance to rear vent then a TEE then a liner up the flue to the top with appropriate block off plate and such. if this is not a viable solution, sell the stove and buy an insert,

dont cut my stove up, it would ruin it for starters , making it unlikely to have any resale value, and you will never be able to get a permit for the install anyway.

dont cut corners when dealing with fire! do it right , to code, or dont do it. its not worth the risk envolved

 

[EForest]

Thanks Mike,
That's exactly what I expected to hear!
My intent is to use the 24FC in the barn I'm building but a friend thought I could "hack" it into the GREAT ROOM fire place for this season.
Thanks for the feedback!

 

[stoveguy2esw]

wasnt trying to sound mean by any means , just wanted to be convincing. the 24-fc you have is a radient catalytic heater we built for better than a decade and was a very successful unit for us. takes a 22 inch log ,and usually got burn times in the 8-9 hour range when banked. i heated for 13 years with a 24-ac (same stove basically but with a blower and headers) was a fantastic unit, ended up taking it out , making room for either a 13-nc , or possibly a little bigger unit if we field one in the next couple years. have to keep up with the product line , and if i have em and operate em , i can feel good about marketing em.

biggest thing though when playing with fire , you must be careful. a free stove isnt free if you visit the emergency room for a burn because of it. and that bypass if inside a fireplace would be difficult to reach safely. if you look back in here, you will find that im rather anal about that, especially when my product line is involved. not because of any liability (though it does factor in) but i simply would feel really bad if someone was injured by one of my products. especially if i could have prevented it with a few strong words.

 

[EForest]

That bypass was my biggest concern. Probly would have burned my arm tryin to pull it. My unit is labeled as a 24Fc/24AC and has open tubes on the upper side.
Does that have the option of a blower? There is a square channel off the rear. Could this stove heat an 1800 sq ft shop in 20 deg temps? If not I have a bro interested in replacing a stove in his 600 sq ft basement that could use it.
Thanks again?!?!!

 

[stoveguy2esw]

That bypass was my biggest concern. Probly would have burned my arm tryin to pull it. My unit is labeled as a 24Fc/24AC and has open tubes on the upper side.
Does that have the option of a blower? There is a square channel off the rear. Could this stove heat an 1800 sq ft shop in 20 deg temps? If not I have a bro interested in replacing a stove in his 600 sq ft basement that could use it.
Thanks again?!?!!

burned arm was mine too,

if the unit has 4ea 1" inch tubes sticking out between the lower front and higher rear tops, it is a 24-ac , not an fc, and yes it can take a blower part # ac-16 with the blower assuming that the shop has at least rudimentary insulation , yes it could do it with the blower, might be a reach without , the fc was rated at up to 1600 sq ft , the ac at 2200, so i believe it could do it with the blower. if the shop isnt insulated though best you could hope for is to get the temps up above freezing but it wont be tropical, insulation is important.

 

[EForest]

The shop will have R19 walls and R30+ ceilings with double pane glass. I guess the next few months with my 24AC will focus on rust removal rather then "hack" work. I'll try a web search for that blower ASAP. Thanks again Mike!!

 

[stoveguy2esw]

The shop will have R19 walls and R30+ ceilings with double pane glass. I guess the next few months with my 24AC will focus on rust removal rather then "hack" work. I'll try a web search for that blower ASAP. Thanks again Mike!!

i'll save you the trouble , here is a link http://www.englanderstoves.com/store/24-ACD_Parts.html#17