Englander 25-PDV burns too hot at LFF of 1...

[Huskyvb]

I have a 2005 PDV that won’t respond to changes in the LFF like it did before. I’ve been running a thermostat for two years and this year when the call for heat is removed, it doesn’t revert back to the settings of 1-3-1 that worked for me last year. It seems as though when it reaches set point, and the thermostat cancels the call for heat, it goes back to heat range 1, but it burns like it’s at 9-9-1. I’ve set the heat range at 1, and the LFF at 1, LBA at 9, AOT at 1 and it’s still going through a bag in less than a day. Even removed the t-stat, replaced jumper and tested, same outcome. Reset control board, put it mode D, same thing. Even bought a new control board last year because I thought that was the issue.

From testing with a meter, it looks like the top auger has a run time of just over a second, at a setting of 1 on the LFF...

Picture is after running three hours at 1-9, with bottom three buttons at 1-9-1, and restrictor plate as far closed off as it will go...

Thoughts? Ideas?

Thanks!

 

[Ssyko]

basically the heat range adjustment changes the amount of "on time" per cycle, each cycle represents one "run" + one "stop" in other words if the "on" is 2 seconds, te "off" will be 14 seconds. if the "on"is 4 seconds the "off " will be 12 seconds and so forth it always adds up to 16 seconds. the "feed amounts" are based on approximations , as you know all pellets are not the same uniform size so the "lbs per hour" are not a "set in stone" rate. FWIW the "on" time on heat range 9 in "D" mode is 4.77 seconds. the On time in C mode heat range 9 is 5.13 seconds. Try a board reset and put it back to factory specs and see if that helps

 

[Huskyvb]

basically the heat range adjustment changes the amount of "on time" per cycle, each cycle represents one "run" + one "stop" in other words if the "on" is 2 seconds, te "off" will be 14 seconds. if the "on"is 4 seconds the "off " will be 12 seconds and so forth it always adds up to 16 seconds. the "feed amounts" are based on approximations , as you know all pellets are not the same uniform size so the "lbs per hour" are not a "set in stone" rate. FWIW the "on" time on heat range 9 in "D" mode is 4.77 seconds. the On time in C mode heat range 9 is 5.13 seconds. Try a board reset and put it back to factory specs and see if that helps

Thanks for the info, the thing is the fire should die out with the LFF on 1, heat setting 1. Especially with the LBA on 9. I’ve done the reset, fired it up, same result. I’ve replaced both blowers and augers in the last year, and a new control board this past winter. Even switched to C mode knowing it would feed more, however all that garnered was a slight increase in output at same levels. Which is what I expected...

Shouldn’t I be able to get the fire to die out after start up with the LFF and heat range settings at 1?

 

[Ssyko]

the lower settings only effect heat setting 1&2. so yes the fire should burn itself out quickly.. i hate to say it but you may need another board.. was it on a surge protector? plugged in all summer?

 

[Huskyvb]

the lower settings only effect heat setting 1&2. so yes the fire should burn itself out quickly.. i hate to say it but you may need another board.. was it on a surge protector? plugged in all summer?

Yes, plugged in all summer, on a APC UPS with surge protection...

This issue was the reason I bought a new control board, direct from Englander. Still have the same issue, it’s weird.

 

[Dataman]

You don't unplug it in off season? Why not?

 

[Ssyko]

I know we all preach surge protectors but they don't always do what they preach.. Most protect from voltage spikes/brown outs, but they don't always protect from amperage spikes. Amperage is based on draw, on the side of the Stove. In other words, you can't "send" more power than something draws; there has to be a vacuum to fill. So, an amperage spike would represent a device pulling more power, that is why fuses blow. Like I said before I have a test bench for electronics (mainly stove boards) its a hobby. without checking the individual components its hard to say what is going on in the circuitry. that's why MFG's sell a lot of boards

pics of my hangout

testing a breckwell board


yes there is an englander board, no i have not figured the damn thing out yet

 

[johneh]

Seems your all set full cup of coffee and a package of cigarettes
30 years ago that could have been me only it would have been blueprints
but now I don't smoke

 

[Ssyko]

busted

 

[Huskyvb]

I know we all preach surge protectors but they don't always do what they preach.. Most protect from voltage spikes/brown outs, but they don't always protect from amperage spikes. Amperage is based on draw, on the side of the Stove. In other words, you can't "send" more power than something draws; there has to be a vacuum to fill. So, an amperage spike would represent a device pulling more power, that is why fuses blow. Like I said before I have a test bench for electronics (mainly stove boards) its a hobby. without checking the individual components its hard to say what is going on in the circuitry. that's why MFG's sell a lot of boards

pics of my hangout
View attachment 251011
testing a breckwell board
View attachment 251012

yes there is an englander board, no i have not figured the damn thing out yet

Even if I swap boards, they both do the exact same thing, that’s the frustrating part. I’ll unplug in the off season, never thought it would be an issue...

 

[Ssyko]

this may be an odd question this far along in the troubleshooting, but have you tried running the stove without the tstat? just to see if it functions normally on all the heat settings.