Englander 25IP 55 SHPIP 55 TRP IP Settings and notes

[kenstogie]

Englander 25IP 55 SHPIP 55 TRP IP Settings and notes (though it probably applies most if all stoves) I


So this forum has helped me many times with settings and just in general so I figured i would convey the info i got from talking with Englander customer service. My stove is a 4 foot tall model that has the 3 doors that open up making service much easier..... manufacture date is 10/12 So I assume that's October 2012 since i got it in 2013? (i think) and maybe things changed since then though I doubt it.


Always clean your stove first, that’s probably 90% of all issues. A dirty stove often prevents air flow, which reduces a complete combustion which causes a dirty burn which causes a more dirty burn which in turn reduces airflow and combustion etc, etc,


What does that fire board do and is it necessary?? It prevents that wall behind it from getting to hot and warping or melting or who knows what else. I was told it was absolutely necessary. Poor design on englander's part in my opinion (and others too) as it's a pain to get off and easily crumbles/ is way to damn fragile.


What are the Factory Settings and how do you change them? 4 - 4 -1 or in other words the Fuel feed rate is at 4 (the left bottom button) the Air Rate is also at 4 (middle button) and the Air on temp (right button) is at 1 (this button tells when the heat exchanger fan kicks on and starts blowing warm air into the room. Adjusting these press the button you want to adjust and it will show what that setting is ….then press both up arrows at the same time to adjust that up or both down arrows to adjust down Very easy. I wouldn’t go changing these before cleaning your stove and the exhaust as well as making sure there are NO LEAKS from faulty gaskets. These adjustments have less effect the higher the setting but still do effect them (according to C.S.) I was also told it’s fine to adjust these.


Heat Exchanger- sometimes the heat exchanger fins will get caked on ash on them and prevent that nice warm/hot air from coming out while also reducing air flow…..so take off the fire board, taking a hammer or better yet rubber mallet and bang on that back wall. Remove those little bolted on access doors in the bottom left and right of the burn area and vacuum that soot and ash out.


Stoking the burn pot – stoke that burn pot once a day or so to help prevent the cake of ash and other crud build up. …..because that cake reduces air flow which causes a dirty burn/incomplete combustion.


Check those gaskets- check the gaskets. The burn pot holder, the door, the combustion blower gasket AND the combustion blower housing gasket, hopper gasket, ashpan gasket and I personally buy a sheet of liotherm or lyothem or ceramic fiber or whatever you call it and make my own. Its pretty easy. Any leaks with pull air through that area and NOT the burn pot which can cause dirty/incomplete burn.


Caulking around pellet chute- the caulking around the pellet chute or mine was not caulked completely so just check.


Pellet Quality- different stoves burn different pellets differently. This years awesome pellet may be awesome next year or may not be. Some pellets (like home depot) are just wherever they get them from year to year and have little consistency.



That’s about all I can think of, now go grab a beer or glass of wine or water or whatever your vice is and relax because life is to short.

 

[kenstogie]

Fwiw from the heat exchanger to the combustion motor area can get clogged but has very little axcess......the only ways are by taking off those little clean out squares in the burn area or by taking the motor off.....if you take the motor off make sure you have anot her gasket.....it's tricky to reuse those.....

 

[Tails1]

I have a TRPIP and mine also had issues with build quality, also heat exchanger area is hard to clean. I bought a cheap drain snake with a nylon brush on the end from the dollar store and I can use this to snake into this area from those clean out squares and clean it out. Using an impact drill with a hard wood dowel in the chuck pressed against the steel causes a good harmonic vibration which knocks alot of junk loose also. Heat exchanger is lousy design, allows way too much heat out the exhaust imo.

Every gasket on this stove leaked from new including the seams in the pellet hopper and burn chute. I could see light through them.

This stove is supposed to have an air wash for the glass but it does not work and hasn't since new.

Hopper itself does not allow the pellets to drop very well, stove often goes out with > half a bag still in there.

The exhaust pipe that came with it leaked from every seam and joint even when caulked, I had to wrap them with silicone tape.

Heat exchanger fan is noisier then it should be, was like this from new.

The igniter is a bad design also, if the stove fails to light fully (which it often does) it errors out with an E2 and backs up smoke out the igniter tube through a small hole at the back of the igniter holder. I have connected this vent hole to the oak pipe with copper tubing so now when it does this the smoke goes out the OAK and doesn't fill the house. Also since doing this the startup failure rate had dropped significantly (more air past the igniter??).

Ash pan is also clumsy to handle and too small, I might fab a new larger one next summer as there is plenty of room below the existing ash pan to facilitate a larger one.

Hopper is supposed to hold two bags but it is a real struggle to completely fit two bags, you usually end up spilling some on the floor for your trouble. The kids and bare feet can attest to that

Burn pots wear out and are expensive to replace (Englander wants 90$ American to replace it) I could fab my own from stainless for less.

Door latch is flimsy and difficult to adjust, door would come unlatched on its own during operation!

That ceramic fiber board is flimsy and starting to fall apart, Englander also wants a kings ransom to replace, I will probably just make my own using hardware cloth and refractory cement.

The stove when running does work well and provide heat but I feel I was ripped off, this product isn't worth the >2k I paid for it in it's current form.

Next summer I will either re-engineer the whole stove including the heat exchanger and try to correct these issues or just ditch it and go with something else. Haven't decided yet.

 

[Tails1]

Englander 25IP 55 SHPIP 55 TRP IP Settings and notes (though it probably applies most if all stoves) I


So this forum has helped me many times with settings and just in general so I figured i would convey the info i got from talking with Englander customer service. My stove is a 4 foot tall model that has the 3 doors that open up making service much easier..... manufacture date is 10/12 So I assume that's October 2012 since i got it in 2013? (i think) and maybe things changed since then though I doubt it.


<snip>

Heat Exchanger- sometimes the heat exchanger fins will get caked on ash on them and prevent that nice warm/hot air from coming out while also reducing air flow…..so take off the fire board, taking a hammer or better yet rubber mallet and bang on that back wall. Remove those little bolted on access doors in the bottom left and right of the burn area and vacuum that soot and ash out.


<snip>

That passage back there actually has fins? Where exactly and can you see them?

 

[kenstogie]

"I have a TRPIP and mine also had issues with build quality,:"

Mine had so many issues it was somewhat unbelievable…. Auger motor was loose (Englander please use Loctite and bigger allen screws), the auger caulk was incomplete and pulling air from the room into the burn area, rust allover (not that big of a deal but still I bought this new), the comb motor whined like a spoiled 8 year old rich kid, burn pot lasted 1 year (and they want $100 appx for a new one), the burn pot holder was loose, the ash pan lever broke (fixed with JB weld), didn’t come with the door latch tool OR the fire brick (they did get those to me though), the door seal does not pass the “dollar bill test” due to a bad rope gasket, the heat exchanger access door bolt/screw was drilled not perpendicular to the burn wall, I could keep going but will stop


"also heat exchanger area is hard to clean. I bought a cheap drain snake with a nylon brush on the end from the dollar store and I can use this to snake into this area from those clean out squares and clean it out."

Great idea, I “borrowed” a bottle brush from the kitchen which wasn’t ideal but worked. I wish I could see what going on in there. It’s so hard to clean in there could have a clean out access door or something….

" Using an impact drill with a hard wood dowel in the chuck pressed against the steel causes a good harmonic vibration which knocks alot of junk loose also."

Nice will try this also…..


"Every gasket on this stove leaked from new including the seams in the pellet hopper and burn chute."
Mine had many leaks and it was new…wtf?


"Ash pan is also clumsy to handle and too small, I might fab a new larger one next summer as there is plenty of room below the existing ash pan to facilitate a larger one."
Why is the ash pan have those corners when they could have just as easily made it rectangular and hold more…..

"Hopper is supposed to hold two bags but it is a real struggle to completely fit two bags, you usually end up spilling some on the floor for your trouble."
This is pretty much all pellet stoves (I have heard…..)

"Burn pots wear out and are expensive to replace (Englander wants 90$ American to replace it) I could fab my own from stainless for less."

Please make 2 and I will pay you the $90… (or I may make my own, I have fair metal working skills) iti is ridiculous the price they are charging for expendable part

That ceramic fiber board is flimsy and starting to fall apart, Englander also wants a kings ransom to replace, I will probably just make my own using hardware cloth and refractory cement.

"The stove when running does work well and provide heat but I feel I was ripped off, this product isn't worth the >2k I paid for it."

IMHO I think it’s worth 2k but not if they are not willing to make minor improvement and do some god damn quality control…. It does kick some heat....

"Next summer I will either re-engineer the whole stove including the heat exchanger and try to correct these issues or just ditch it and go with something else. Haven't decided yet."

Keep us posted….

(there's some decent info here.... https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/englander-55-trp-ip-s-aka-25-ip-s.113588/

 

[kenstogie]

For those that may google

why is my englander stove not burning right even after I clean it.....

On this stove you need to un screw those 2 little sq access plates/doors in the burn area and send a brush (bendable bottle brush works) from the left door to the right one or vice versa. This area gets clogged with ash and prevents airflow.... it is ghappening at about every ton if pellets burned for me but ymmv depending on pellets used....thus is not listed in the manual.....

 

[bill3rail]

That’s about all I can think of, now go grab a beer or glass of wine or water or whatever your vice is and relax because life is to short.

My vice is my pellet stove!

 

[Tails1]

For those that may google

why is my englander stove not burning right even after I clean it.....

On this stove you need to un screw those 2 little sq access plates/doors in the burn area and send a brush (bendable bottle brush works) from the left door to the right one or vice versa. This area gets clogged with ash and prevents airflow.... it is ghappening at about every ton if pellets burned for me but ymmv depending on pellets used....thus is not listed in the manual.....

I use the leaf blower trick and while the leaf blower is running I go inside and use an impact drill with a piece of wood in the chuck pressed against the back of the burn area, this produces clouds of black soot outside. I do this until it stops.

 

[kenstogie]

I use the leaf blower trick and while the leaf blower is running I go inside and use an impact drill with a piece of wood in the chuck pressed against the back of the burn area, this produces clouds of black soot outside. I do this until it stops.

Thanks for that trick! .... I will definitely be trying that......

fwiw I took apart my door ...yup completely apart.... it was always getting the black sooty film on it. When lighting the stove and the smoking pellets finally ignited in a POOF! a small puff of smoke would actually comefrom between the glass and the metal frame.......

The fiberglass gasket that the glass would sit in and held on by 2 metal bars did not seal for $h!+ .....pretty sure it was assembled by a monkey. Or designed by one.......I put it back together with a thick rope gasket ( like the one on the door seal). going around the glass...in the cavity between the two metal halves of the door......so no more leak.....

. I can not believe how many things were effed up with this stove right from Englander......