Englander 30 for 1200 SF Cabin?

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JRitz187

Member
Oct 23, 2014
51
New Hampshire
Hi All, great information on this site! I recently bought a cabin up in New Hampshire the had an old Timberline stove in there from the 70's (I think) which was about 21" D x 24.5 W x 33.5 H and I want to get something more efficient and something with a glass viewing window. I do have a cord of Dry Ash waiting for its new home!

I was originally going for a US Stove Model 2000 form TSC because it has gotten great reviews on HD, TSC and whatever YouTube's are out there and I like the looks. The size seems appropriate for my cabin as well.

But I found this Englander 30 on CL last night and got the guy to $425! I'm just concerned that it's going to boil me out of my living room as the set up is that the couch is pretty close to the stove (see pic) and that old Timberline beast used to cook us pretty good.

(broken link removed to http://newhaven.craigslist.org/hsh/4716603191.html)

I know it's a great stove from reading these forums and $425 for what looks like a brand new guy (says it is...) is a super steal this time of year.

Any thoughts on size or if i just run it light will it perform?

PS - The Timberline is for sale, if anyone is interested :)!!

Thanks!!
 

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How well did the timberline do for you?
 
How well did the timberline do for you?

It actually did quite well, just ate a lot of wood and was boring to watch, although I do love the Mt scene on the doors. It's at least 25 yrs old and still sturdy as can be! It is probably a bit much in the cabin but we can seen -20 temps in the white mountains. I just picked the place up in April so I haven't really been in it at peak season, I imagine that extra heat will come in handy during the dead of windy cold winter. It was pretty easy to open a slider to the screen porch to get level it off if it got to hot.
 
Just trying to get an idea of projected heat from your original so that I could figure out if the 30 would be a good match. I absolutely HATE that manufacturers put sqft ratings on their stoves. You and I both know that 1,000 square feet doesn't mean a thing from one house to the next!

My gut tells me that if your old stove (I think it must be a T-24) worked well, then the 30 should do just fine (I guarantee that it will use less fuel, lol).
 
OK, had to google this to find it, but I like to use it when trying to figure out if a new stove does the same as an old stove...
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/burn_time_calculator

Basically, You figure your firebox size (Remember the old Timberline stoves have a TON of space, but it ain't all for firewood.) I'm not positive, but I think you could guess a T-24 at like 5 cuft of useable firebox. The NC-30 has 3.5 cuft.

so you enter that data and that link I posted spits out 210,000 BTUs for a total burn on the old one and 193,000 on the new one (using soft wood). That's pretty close. I know it's not exact, but it gives you an idea of how many extra BTUs you are sending up the chimney... Just as an example, if I had used the 3.5cuft on a non-epa setting using that calculator it would have said the smaller stove only has 147,000 BTUs, so a BIG difference...
 
OK, had to google this to find it, but I like to use it when trying to figure out if a new stove does the same as an old stove...
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/burn_time_calculator

Basically, You figure your firebox size (Remember the old Timberline stoves have a TON of space, but it ain't all for firewood.) I'm not positive, but I think you could guess a T-24 at like 5 cuft of useable firebox. The NC-30 has 3.5 cuft.

so you enter that data and that link I posted spits out 210,000 BTUs for a total burn on the old one and 193,000 on the new one (using soft wood). That's pretty close. I know it's not exact, but it gives you an idea of how many extra BTUs you are sending up the chimney... Just as an example, if I had used the 3.5cuft on a non-epa setting using that calculator it would have said the smaller stove only has 147,000 BTUs, so a BIG difference...

Ohh That's an awesome link! I was looking for something similar but couldn't find it on the web. So it looks like it's pretty close and I can adjust the load down to not roast, I used to crank the Timberline. Largely because I'm new to the wood stove world and it was fun, but also i'm learning how to use it haha. Thanks so much for posting that, I think I'm going to go for it as it's a smoking deal and the extra capacity and overnight burn from the US stove will be nice.

I know there have been folks that go from 8" stove pipe to the 6" that most of the newer stoves take without any issues, any advice on that? I have about 8' of 8" dbl wall hart and cooley on the roof and currently there is about 4' of 8" single wall pipe inside. I was told the transition would be better at the top and ge new 6" pipe down and not at the stove collar. I have had excellent draft with the timberline so far, does that sound like its the best way to go?
 
Yes, if you are going to go from 6" to 8", then do it up as high as you can. I hope this doesn't give you issues. I'm worried that the draft will reduce quite a bit and cause you problems. Adding some extra chimney might help, but by the time you go doing stuff like that you might as well switch the whole thing to 6".
 
Hard to say, but would try it with the increaser right at the ceiling support box. It might not be the best in milder weather but could work ok in winter. Be prepared to add a few feet chimney and a roof brace if the draft requires more chimney.
 
If it was me, I would buy a used NC30 before a new US stove any day. Its more than you need but with practice you should be able to burn it so it works. I used a 3.4 Enerzone for a few years in 1200 SF living space. Took a little getting used to, but it worked out fine. I suspect I may have used more wood than a perfectly sized stove, but I liked the option of having the horsepower for those extra frigid nights we tend to get 5-10 days a year.

Also, it was nice to show off to my redneck neighbors.
 
[Hearth.com] Englander 30 for 1200 SF Cabin?
Thanks for all the help!! I went ahead and nabbed it up. It is basically brand new, the guy bought it without measuring and it wouldn't fit into his fireplace. Figured that out after he burned off the oil and heated up the paint outside, so no return.

This thing is a beast, I can't wait to get it up in the cabin and laugh at the snow and wind!
 
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Great find,that stove will serve you well for many years!
 
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You just stole a stove.
 
Well done. It should be a nice upgrade from the Timberline.
 
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Stole it, for sure.
 
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That's a lot of stove, but you'll figure it out. Make sure you're OK with clearances and hearth requirements. I agree with putting the flue size increaser as high up to the ceiling support box as possible, and watch it carefully for a while for any sign that it may need a bit more chimney. Be safe, and enjoy! Rick
 
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It's a great stove and deal at $900. At $425... It's silly!
 
[Hearth.com] Englander 30 for 1200 SF Cabin? [Hearth.com] Englander 30 for 1200 SF Cabin? [Hearth.com] Englander 30 for 1200 SF Cabin? [Hearth.com] Englander 30 for 1200 SF Cabin?
Well a few weeks later and I was able to get back up to the cabin and get the 30 installed! I was pretty nervous about the size but it seems to fit perfect and will def do the job! I think I need to get better wood for next season, def a big difference in temperament between this and the timberline! (just bought the place this year so I haven't gotten a good wood rotation yet). Thanks again for everyone's help on here! Maybe next spring I'll do something with the old beat up bluestone hearth...
 
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ohhhh does anyone have a nickle draft control handle they want to sell? The box was missing that one and I had to put the gold on, the mismatch is making me a little crazy, haha.
 
The draft seems to be pretty okay smoke rolls right up and doesn't come in the cabin at all, it was probably only 38-40 degree's outside so hopefully it'll get better the colder it gets. I think the wood is not dry enough which is why it starts to die down when I close the door and dial down the air. I tried 2 of those red stone blocks from TSC and they seemed to do quite well so I'm assuming it's the wood and not a draft issue. Have a moisture meter coming to check on it though and planning wood storage build for spring for proper rotation!
 
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