Englander chimney install

[sage]

Hello and thanks for letting me join this forum!

I am installing the smallest Englander pellet stove on saturday! Hurray!! Any way, I have the Duravent kit that Englander recommends and was looking at the
parts and noticed that the bracket that holds the chimney to the house is only going to hold it away 3 inches??? I thought after reading the instructions that the chimney had to be 6 inches away from the house??? I'm confused?? Is the 3 inch clearance enough??

I have searched this forum for the answer to this but have not found anything on it.

Thanks in advance for any info,


sage

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Hello and thanks for letting me join this forum!

I am installing the smallest Englander pellet stove on saturday! Hurray!! Any way, I have the Duravent kit that Englander recommends and was looking at the
parts and noticed that the bracket that holds the chimney to the house is only going to hold it away 3 inches??? I thought after reading the instructions that the chimney had to be 6 inches away from the house??? I'm confused?? Is the 3 inch clearance enough??

I have searched this forum for the answer to this but have not found anything on it.

Thanks in advance for any info,


sage

What does the Duravent kit say about clearances ... for example the venting I use has a 1" clearance to combustibles.

 

[DexterDay]

Add the 90* angle that comes in the kit (at the top of the 3 ft bertical run) and then add a 1' section of vent and then the cap. This is if your going through the wall and then up the side of the house. It should be at least 6" from your house. Using the 90 and the 1' piece and cap, will put you about 1.5' away from the house.

How were you planning on running the pipe? There is Five 1 ft sections, 3 of those must be used for vertical rise. The other 2 normally get you over and out away from the house.

 

[hossthehermit]

Hello and thanks for letting me join this forum!




sage

Congratulations on sucessfully making it through the rigorous and expensive application and screening process. Welcome aboard.

 

[imacman]

I may be wrong on this, but I think that the distance from the house where the exhaust actually exits the pipe has to be at least 6" from the house. I seriously doubt that Simpson would put a part in their kit that they knew wasn't correct, and Englander wouldn't recommend/sell it.

 

[sage]

AHHH!!

I think I just had a lightbulb moment In reading the instruction I assumed( and yes I know what that means) that the hole chimney pipe had to be 6 inches from the house not just the end vent! OK Got it now!! Going thru the wall and straight up the side of the house. This is not the first pellet stove I've had, but it is the first one I can say I have installed and correcting installed the first time

Thank you.

And yes the rigorous and expansive application process was excruciating long and laborious.


Now where did I put that 7" hole saw????


Thanks again,


sage

 

[Waterbug]

I just installed an England Stove Co 25 EP, with the exact same vent kit. I ended up buying an additional 1' section of pipe and an additional bracket. The height of the exhaust from the stove (16''), the length of the clean-out T (about 8"), the 4' of pipe and the 90 degree bend put the sharp cornered chrome cap at exactly the 6' level above my deck. It was an accident waiting to happen. Since a bracket was recomended for every three feet of pipe, I added a second one. In my opinion, there should be two brackets on the original 4' of pipe, since support brackets are recomended every 3 feet. If you ran 2' to the wall and only had a 3' rise, then one bracket would surfice.

EDIT: A ZIP saw is the answer to the 7" hole. It works on both wall-board and wood siding. Watch out for electrical wiring. That 16" height +- 3 1/2 inches for hole radius, is right about where electrical wiring is run between wall plugs. Luckily I built my home and had in process pictures of all construction. Did a short search and found the wall just prior to wall-board installation. I had to modify my exhaust venting plans.

EDIT #2: I had to modify the thru-the-wall sleeve because I had interior brick (3 1/2"), 1/2 wall-board, 2X6 framing (5 1/5"), and exterior siding. The ZIP saw just didn't work for the brick. Needed a hammer-drill for both the intake and exhaust vent holes.

EDIT #3: Fired up the stove yesterday and it works GREAT.

EDIT #4: I replaced a propane fueled Heat-N-Glo Ventura II. The new pellet stove puts out about the same heat for less than 1/2 the fuel cost. Anyone who is interested in an antique white porcelin Heat-N-Glo Ventura II for half the price of new (used 2 seasons) let me know.

 

[DexterDay]

I just installed an England Stove Co 25 EP, with the exact same vent kit. I ended up buying an additional 1' section of pipe and an additional bracket. The height of the exhaust from the stove (16''), the length of the clean-out T (about 8"), the 4' of pipe and the 90 degree bend put the sharp cornered chrome cap at exactly the 6' level above my deck. It was an accident waiting to happen. Since a bracket was recomended for every three feet of pipe, I added a second one. In my opinion, there should be two brackets on the original 4' of pipe, since support brackets are recomended every 3 feet. If you ran 2' to the wall and only had a 3' rise, then one bracket would surfice.

EDIT: A ZIP saw is the answer to the 7" hole. It works on both wall-board and wood siding. Watch out for electrical wiring. That 16" height +- 3 1/2 inches for hole radius, is right about where electrical wiring is run between wall plugs. Luckily I built my home and had in process pictures of all construction. Did a short search and found the wall just prior to wall-board installation. I had to modify my exhaust venting plans.

EDIT #2: I had to modify the thru-the-wall sleeve because I had interior brick (3 1/2"), 1/2 wall-board, 2X6 framing (5 1/5"), and exterior siding. The ZIP saw just didn't work for the brick. Needed a hammer-drill for both the intake and exhaust vent holes.

EDIT #3: Fired up the stove yesterday and it works GREAT.

EDIT #4: I replaced a propane fueled Heat-N-Glo Ventura II. The new pellet stove puts out about the same heat for less than 1/2 the fuel cost. Anyone who is interested in an antique white porcelin Heat-N-Glo Ventura II for half the price of new (used 2 seasons) let me know.

With all this info and you being a new member (this is your 1st post)... Why dont you start a thread and introduce yourself with pics??

We love pics....

 

[Waterbug]

Will do !! That will be a project for tomorrow. I have before pictures and can take some after pictures in the morning.

EDIT: Here is a before picture.

 

[sage]

The 7" hole saw was a joke!!

I have a resip saw. I'm going thru drywall then the siding then vinyl siding. I think I know where the electrical is at about 13" above the floor
I hope! I've located the studs 16 on center and the exhaust will go in between. I built a tiled hearth to set the stove on so it will be above the electrical. I also purchased a 3 foot section of pipe for the outside, I figured the less joints was a good thing The adapter, 1' section of pipe and then the T will leave the chimney 6" from the house at the T, then the 3' section, the 90 another 1' then the cap should get it about 8 feet above the ground. Is it ok the lean it back to the house to attach the bracket?
I was also thinking about getting a second bracket for it just as over kill in case one failed but I have yet to find just this bracket anywhere but online.

Also do I need more than 4" of access to the back of the stove for cleaning or replacing parts at some point? I could move it out from the wall another 3" and that would bring the outside pipe to 3" from the house and give me 7" in back of the stove.

Thanks for all the help!! I love this forum so much good info on here

sage

PS Now for the ultimate question the everyone asks--------------

What pellets do most Englander stoves like to eat??? I can get Eureka(2 different), Lignetics(2 different), North Idaho Energy??? All about the same price here.

 

[xraycer]

The 7" hole saw was a joke!!

I have a resip saw. I'm going thru drywall then the siding then vinyl siding. I think I know where the electrical is at about 13" above the floor
I hope!

I used a cheap multipurpose tool from harborfreight for my install and it gave a clean cut, only goes about 1.5" deep, and gives a lot of control to the cut. Never even worried about electrical wires. I love this thing and it only cost $30. They now have a variable speed(with blades) version and a variable speed cordless version(sans blades) for $10 more.

 

[smoke show]

I could move it out from the wall another 3" and that would bring the outside pipe to 3" from the house and give me 7" in back of the stove.

Seems to me this is the best way.

You will regret it later if you don't have enuf room for maintenence.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I could move it out from the wall another 3" and that would bring the outside pipe to 3" from the house and give me 7" in back of the stove.

Seems to me this is the best way.

You will regret it later if you don't have enuf room for maintenence.

Yes then the air will be blue and it won't be smoke ;-) .

 

[Waterbug]

Is it ok the lean it back to the house to attach the bracket?
I was also thinking about getting a second bracket for it just as over kill in case one failed but I have yet to find just this bracket anywhere but online.

Dura-Vent makes a 12" slide section that makes a 12' section adjustable from abour 15 to 23". I installed the slide section through the wall from the outside and then slid a 12' section of pipe into it. This allowed me to put the stove any distance from the wall and still have the ptoper wall to vent spacing on the outside of the house. The slide section must be secured to the 12" pipe with three sheet metal screws and then sealed with High-temp RTV or aluminum tape. The through the wall colllar's 3" hole must be increased about a 32nd of an inch with a dremel tool ot file to accomidate the slightly larger OD of the slide section

Both the slide section and additional brackets are available at Lowes.