Englander nc30 burning problem

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jnc1991

New Member
Sep 12, 2014
15
Erie Pa
New Englander NC30, old drafty house, 9ft of single wall to ceiling, 12 feet triple wall to roof straight up. 3 ft above the peak. Having issues with wood smoldering, not burning hot. With door closed, no flames. Smoke is going up chimney ok, definitely not blocked. Suspect wood issues. What is best way to determine this? Anything else I should consider? It is 50+ outside...
 
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Probably wet wood. How long has it been split and stacked outside where it gets lots of wind and sun? Do you know the species? A moisture meter can be very helpful. Split a few pieces lengthwise in half and press the pins in the center of the fresh surface. Wood under 20% is optimal, under 25% will be ok. Above that you look at at least a few months additional drying time.

Did you check the placement of the baffle board on top of the burn tubes? Should be all the way back. Is the chimney also new? If not has it been cleaned and inspected before the installation?

Do you leave the door open when you start a fire? When do you close it? Is the air control all the way open during the startup?
 
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Get a few bundles of the kiln dried wood at the grocery or convenience store. You know this wood is dry so you should be able to compare the burns easily.
 
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Also be aware that chimneys don't draft as well when it's this warm. It'll act very different when it's 20 degrees cooler.
 
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I just bought a moisture meter and infrared thermometer. Wood was advertised as seasoned..... I have several cord from different suppliers. Flue/chimney is brand new Duravent. I started a fire with paper and kindling, seemed to burn okay at first with door cracked open, air supply all the way open. First load burned throug with door closed, air still all the way open. Next fillup not so good. Never closed air supply. I did make sure the plates were all the way back, read that somewhere. Wood is cherry, maple, oak mostly.
 
Thanks for kiln dried wood tip, will pick some up tomorrow. I wish I'd seen that sooner, just got back from home depot. :/
 
hello new here to the forum , im having the same problem , wood is seasoned , but when i shut the door the flame goes out , the stove is a englander 17 vl , with new chimney above roof peak , need help this is driving me nuts .
 
And the million dollar question . . . is the wood "seasoned" according to a wood seller . . . or is it "seasoned" according to a moisture meter?
 
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Should also mention . . . usually smoldering wood means . . .

a) wood is not truly seasoned
b) wood is wet and has not dried out yet
c) air control has been shut down too much or too soon, suffocating the fire
d) draft issues . . . could be too short of a chimney, but this time of year it's most likely the temp/pressure difference
 
hello new here to the forum , im having the same problem , wood is seasoned , but when i shut the door the flame goes out , the stove is a englander 17 vl , with new chimney above roof peak , need help this is driving me nuts .

The same theories apply here.

How "seasoned" is the fire wood?
 
Ah Fall has arrived. "My new EPA stove won't burn when I close the door."

Happens a dozen times every Fall folks. Hang with the good experienced people here and they will get you going. And yes after you argue for a dozen posts you will find out it is the wood or the chimney just like happens every time. Year after year after year after year.... Most often the wood.
 
wood is two years seasones stored under tarp this fall... the stove dosent seem to be pulling draft from the stove , the chimney seems fine i had the installer here today and he thinks its the stove,, the chimney is drafting fine with no smoke coming into the house , it seems like the draft control on the stove isn't functioning properly , i get one inch of pull in each direction , is this normal ?
 
Ah Fall has arrived. "My new EPA stove won't burn when I close the door."

Happens a dozen times every Fall folks. Hang with the good experienced people here and they will get you going. And yes after you argue for a dozen posts you will find out it is the wood or the chimney just like happens every time. Year after year after year after year.... Most often the wood.

But we still haven't had the "These EPA stoves stink . . . I wish I never gave up my old stove" thread yet. ;)
 
Yeah, BrotherBart, I hesitated to post it and even read the "read this first" threads but couldn't help it. After buying the moisture meter I do believe we are dealing with a moisture issue. Meter showing 20%+ on many pieces. I found some at 12-15 and am trying those now.
 
Especially this time of year you have to leave the door cracked like the manual says to get a good burn going and the chimney draft going strong. EPA stoves need a strong draft due to the air being drawn through manifolds from the back of the stove instead of just sucking it through holes in the front like the old stoves.

Stove ain't broke and the air control is fine.
 
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I know it is frustrating. I went through it myself in 2006 when I switched stoves. Folks here got me up and running and would never go back.

Let'er burn with the door cracked until you can close it and see it pulling the smoke up the chimney. And the fire stays active. Takes a lot longer when it ain't real cold outside.
 
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I will just be patient I guess, the cold will be here soon enough. As far as the wood, I will definitely take the moisture meter with me wood shopping from now on.
 
Before you know it you will be looking at this. First fire of the 2007 season.

[Hearth.com] Englander nc30 burning problem
 
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With air left all the way open, most the heat will go up and out the stack. After good fire is established, and decent temp reached, air should be closed as much as possible without smoldering the load.
 
One thing that helps is to build the fire with small stuff and get the stove and flue up and running. Then when it has burned down to coals, add your bigger load on top of the coals and let the bad boy walk and talk.
 
Somebody with a free stander will have to advise. I have never known my flue temps since the back half of my stove in is the fireplace.

[Hearth.com] Englander nc30 burning problem
 
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