I am making some changes to our heating source this year and the Englander has the crosshairs set on it. We currently heat our old modestly insulated 2700sq ft home with a Clayton 1800 in the basement. While it is a great unit at keeping the house warm, I can't say the same for the amount of wood it eats. So in other plans of cutting back on wood usage we are planning to pull the trigger on an Englander to be put upstairs in the living room. I have read nothing but great reviews of this stove and have seen several people who like myself have went from a non epa stove to this stove and cut wood usage down dramatically. The only thing I found as somewhat of a negative is the mention of excessive coal bed buildup. Are you not able to just open the air up more on this stove and burn the bed down before you reload or do these epa stoves burn differently than the old school stoves I'm used to ?
Englander nc30
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I've had my NC 30 for, oh, maybe two months so I am now an expert.
The stove has no grate - the fire burns on a bed of fire bricks. The coal build up is strictly a function of how much ash you allow to accumulate. This is not necessarily a disadvantage: If you need longer cycle times, just let the ash build up three inches or so, and you will have live coals 14, 16 hours later. But for shorter cycles with more continuous heat output you will need to clean the ashes every couple of days.
The NC 30 is bound to be far more efficient than your non-epa stove. But do not underestimate its potential appetite! It has a large firebox and can generate tremendous amounts of heat - and that takes fuel. But you can likely reload on a six to eight hour cycle, so that is only three or four loads a day.
The stove has no grate - the fire burns on a bed of fire bricks. The coal build up is strictly a function of how much ash you allow to accumulate. This is not necessarily a disadvantage: If you need longer cycle times, just let the ash build up three inches or so, and you will have live coals 14, 16 hours later. But for shorter cycles with more continuous heat output you will need to clean the ashes every couple of days.
The NC 30 is bound to be far more efficient than your non-epa stove. But do not underestimate its potential appetite! It has a large firebox and can generate tremendous amounts of heat - and that takes fuel. But you can likely reload on a six to eight hour cycle, so that is only three or four loads a day.
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Most any stove is going to have a build up of coals if you run it hard. Just put in some splits splits and open the air up for a while and burn the coal bed down.
Let me clarify - I burn both an NC 30 (shop) and a Jotul F500 (house). The Jotul will not build up a large amount of ash as it falls through the grate into the ash pan. The NC 30 has no such grate, so ash will just build up and up without action by the user. In use, without any change to the air or adding more fuel, the Jotul will burn down a coal bed in three, four hours. With a good amount of ash in the bottom of the NC 30 some of the coals are insulated and will just coal away for many hours. But starting with clean bricks the coals will burn down much faster - probably as fast as any stove.
Of course you could rake them and add a couple of splits, but there are times when it is nice to just let it idle for a while.
MisterFixIT
Member
If I get coal buildup I just rake the coals to the front and crank the air control up high. If its really bad I will lay a small piece of kindling across the front on top of the coals and the extra air will burn down the coal layer. Works well on the PE super firebox that has the boost manifold in the front bottom. Not sure if the NC30 has the same.
Speak of which, I am in the market for a coal rake. Something made of wrought iron would be cool if anyone has a lead on something. I may have to fab something. Raking coals with my poker is getting old. Something like this would be sweet.
https://www.rubylane.com/item/167844-12430/Blacksmith-Coal-Rake-Clam-Garden-Hand
Speak of which, I am in the market for a coal rake. Something made of wrought iron would be cool if anyone has a lead on something. I may have to fab something. Raking coals with my poker is getting old. Something like this would be sweet.
https://www.rubylane.com/item/167844-12430/Blacksmith-Coal-Rake-Clam-Garden-Hand
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
If you have coaling issues with an EPA style firebox, you are reloading too often...if you are reloading too often to try to keep up with heat demand, then the stove you have is too small for your heat load.
That said, to burn coals down, rake coals forward, then open the air up the whole way for an hour or two...if that is not enough heat output to keep up with the heat load, then throw some soft wood in too. That will help keep up with the heat load while the coals burn down...while not adding more coals.
Hey @woodsHAM, did you see the thread(s) about the Durango Colorado Home Depot sale on the 30? If not look it up...can't beat the deal...so much heater for the money!
Sprinter
Minister of Fire
I agree with that post. My stove is not an NC30, but I think the argument would apply to nearly any stove. I burn a lot of red alder and it produces a lot of ash, but it also tends to insulate the coals which keeps them hot longer. It just is not a problem. I've been able to start new burns after 10-12 hrs and my stove is only 2 cf.
You will love just about any newer EPA efficient stove. Just get the one that meets your needs the best
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