Enviro Wood Stoves
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With dry wood and decent draft the stove will get hotter with the air closed down more. That creates a vacuum in the firebox which pulls air through the secondary tubes.
Plenty of coals and 250 stt after a 12 hour burn - I'm liking this stove more and more! We've had a recent warm spell, and so I've been burning on 12 hr cycles. This is the first time I've done that for more than a few burns. As long as I have good hardwood, and fill up the stove, there are more than enough coals after 12 hrs.
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I find that above 20 degrees the Enviro usually keeps up no problem. Above 30 and it almost isn’t even work. Glad you are liking the stove.
How was your customer where you bought the stove? My shop closed a few years ago and I developed a small crack last winter. I want to deal with it, but I need to go through a dealer for warranty issues. Thanks.
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I actually bought from a shop that was closing down due to the owner retiring. Stove was a really good deal, and I was going to install myself anyways, so I didn't mind.
That's a real bummer. Where is the crack?
Right behind the door when you open it. It’s at the bottom left corner. It’s not long; only an inch or so.
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Just bought myself a Boston 1200 insert yesterday! I cant wait for it to be installed! Ill keep you posted on the install and the first burn. Im pretty excited to not be paying threw the nose for oil!
Hi Folks - love this forum and this thread since I'm a wood insert newbie and an Enviro Venice 1700 owner.
Quick question - where do most folks prefer to measure the stove temp and what method? I have an IR gun but readings are all over the place depending on where you point it..
I'll be back with a lot more questions once I figure that out.
Quick question - where do most folks prefer to measure the stove temp and what method? I have an IR gun but readings are all over the place depending on where you point it..
I'll be back with a lot more questions once I figure that out.
I have a Kodiak and I check by putting the IR gun under the vent where the are comes out of the blower at the flue collar.
NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
You’ll find the temp varies widely based on where you point it. 550F at the hottest location is probably ideal for efficiency. However during the peak getting to 650F is normal. At 750F and above is probably time to start taking some active measures to cool off (close air, turn up fan) before it gets out of control before it’s get to an overfire situation.
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NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
Congratulations. Always nice to see another Boston on here.
A few thoughts on your remaining work.
Most importantly the outlet inside the fireplace may not be to code. It’s within the required clearance to combustibles listed in the manual. It may get too hot and you’ll have no easy way to unplug the fan when doing maintenance or if there is some emergency.
Also the hearth looks a little short in front. Are you planning on doing anything to the floor? You need 16” in front with 1” non combustible material with a k value of 0.84 (there’s a formula to convert that to an R value).
Last thing is just something I’ve learned from having to get behind the surround / get to the fan a few times. You don’t need to tighten the screws on the top and side panels all the way. The top plate has two screws on both side and which the plate just slides on top of. When you don’t tighten them you can just slide the top cover off and on as needed. Same thing on the side panels. Just let gravity hold them in place. So when you clean the fan, just pull up the top and then lift the side panels off in a few seconds. It’s a PIA to reach a wrench in there.
Also do a block off plate now before putting the surround on. It will save you a post later on asking if you need one.
Sorry to be a downer on the safety stuff, but better to address things now.
Good luck.
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Im not sure I understand, the plug inside the fireplace does or does not meet the clearances to combustibles? I have seen other installs that had set ups like that and haven't heard of anything problems.
I will be modifying the floor to meet the 16" requirement. Im about 6" short so ill be putting a boarder around the stone that I have now.
I have a rock wool block off plate that I think will be fine for now. If I feel I need something better ill do that at a later date.
I have already learned how much of a pain it is to take off the panels... thanks for the tip, keep them loose. Got it!
I will be modifying the floor to meet the 16" requirement. Im about 6" short so ill be putting a boarder around the stone that I have now.
I have a rock wool block off plate that I think will be fine for now. If I feel I need something better ill do that at a later date.
I have already learned how much of a pain it is to take off the panels... thanks for the tip, keep them loose. Got it!
NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
I’m not an expert, but every time I’ve seen it come up on a thread it’s usually warned against. In the manual, we need 10 inches to the side of the unit to any combustible - which I think would include an outlet. Plus the outlet itself may not be rated for the temperatures it would encounter in the fireplace.
You may want to post a new thread to ask about it as some of the experts (@Bholer) would be more likely to see it than in this thread.
For the block off plate I used a light gauge sheet metal from Home Depot that was easy to work with without a bunch of expensive sheet metal tools. Having a metal support under the Roxul is generally recommended to get the most heat out, especially if running with the fan off.
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You may want to post a new thread to ask about it as some of the experts (@Bholer) would be more likely to see it than in this thread.
For the block off plate I used a light gauge sheet metal from Home Depot that was easy to work with without a bunch of expensive sheet metal tools. Having a metal support under the Roxul is generally recommended to get the most heat out, especially if running with the fan off.
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The hottest location on my stove is always the glass in the door. But I think someone said not to measure the temp there?
NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
Correct. Point it at the stove top through the air outlet. During a cold start the hottest part will be the collar. After that it’s usually on the right side a little in front of the collar.
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The temp at the top through the air vent is always about ~200 degrees less than the glass front. Just measured the glass temp and it was ~425. Hottest part through the air outlet was indeed a little to the right in front of the collar ~225.
I don't think I've every seen that spot get above 325.
I don't think I've every seen that spot get above 325.
NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
That doesn’t seem right. That should be hotter. A few questions.
- Is your wood dry (20% or below)?
- Are you doing full loads up to the top of the bricks?
- Do you see any secondary burn coming from the burn tubes?
Maybe try posting a quick video of the fire about 30 minutes in. At that point you should be cruising with good temps.
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NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
That doesn’t seem right. That should be hotter. A few questions.
- Is your wood dry (20% or below)?
- Are you doing full loads up to the top of the bricks?
- Do you see any secondary burn coming from the burn tubes?
Maybe try posting a quick video of the fire about 30 minutes in. At that point you should be cruising with good temps.
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This reading was this morning after the nightly burn. I had just rake the coals and open the air vent all the way. But no new logs were loaded since it’s time to clean out ash.
but even with a full load the top it’s always much cooler than the glass.
i’m still concerned I’m doing this incorrectly. The process seems rather haphazard to me
NoGoodAtScreenNames
Feeling the Heat
Cooler than the glass is fine, but it should be higher than what you’re reporting during the height of the burn. When it’s been going for hours and mostly coals and little to no flame low 300s are fine.
BTW are you measuring temp in F or C? I’m Fahrenheit and if you are Celsius we have a failure to communicate... 300C is a good fire. 300F is a little low for the peak on a tube stove.
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I generally cruise 325-450F in my kodiak. It's my first year burning dry wood and when I keep it above 350 I'm noticing a much cleaner glass and better coals in the morning for a re light. It's taking some time to dial it in for better results. I think I was turning down the air too soon and having not fully seasoned wood was the issue last year. This year I tend to leave the air open and close it when temps are up instead of just having massive flames in the fire box.
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