European burner with insufficient heat

[European Burner]

Hi all.
I'm new here but I've been reading a lot of comments and learning for a few months. I live in Europe and I can tell you that there is more knowledge here than most of the sellers of wood stoves in my country, I live in Spain.
I have several questions to ask and I would like to know your opinion. I live in a two-story house with good insulation and a square shape between floors. Each floor has 810 square feet, with a kitchen, service, hall and living room on the ground floor and four bedrooms and two services on the upper floor.
I currently have a Bodart & Gonay infire 740 with a good chimney draft and a straight pipe for heat distribution to the double room upstairs. On the other hand, the insert is in the living room and at the opposite end where the stairs that go up to the upper floor are. This means that there is a perfect recirculation of the air between the two plants and the temperature is practically similar up and down. The problem I have is that with this insert to heat the two floors I have to close the kitchen, toilet and hall doors on the ground floor and all the rooms upstairs except the double room because if not, there is not enough heat for all home. Also, if it is very cold outside, this is even more noticeable. The Bodart infire has a power rating of 34000btu and a maximum power of 41000btu. It is supposed to be designed to heat 1100 square feet at most. In addition, to be able to heat these areas I have to always have a very strong fire with large flames or the fans stop and the temperature drops quickly. I must admit that the B&G infire works well, it starts very fast unlike most stoves and has a great build quality, but it does not like large logs and is very critical when regulating the primary air intake and there is You have to always let it run near the maximum so that the fans continue to run but this makes it consume a lot of wood quickly.
That said and after reading a lot here, I am considering new options since I have decided that I want to heat the whole house with only firewood. But in order to make this decision, I have several questions and I think you can help me. I really like the idea of doing 12-hour burns and coming home from work with a good temperature in the house without worrying about having to light the fireplace when it is cold. But I'm not sure that with a wood stove I can equalize the temperature between the two floors of the house as I now have with the heat distribution system to other rooms.
In addition, no brand of stoves or fireplaces is marketed in Europe except Pacific Energy. I do not understand if it is because of ecological regulations or because there is no interest in the distribution of these products or for other reasons. Also in Europe that I know of there are no catalytic stoves and vendors don't even know they exist. But I would try to import a wood burning appliance from the USA if that was my decision.
The options would be:
1- An insert with heat distribution to other rooms with a higher nominal power type Stuv 21 125 (61400btu) with which it could heat the whole house but would have the problem that burns would be short having to constantly recharge.
2- The same system with a Pacific Energy FP30 that could burn 8-10 hours and with the distribution of air to other rooms that works so well in my case, but I have the doubt that it could heat the whole house without having to make very strong fires constantly.
3- A Blaze King 40 catalytic stove or a similar one with which I would have no problems loading firewood and could have it always on and with better constant temperature control, but I don't know if I could achieve such a good distribution of heat between the plant below and above as now.
I appreciate the comments and I apologize for being so extensive and for my English.

Kind regards.

 

[EbS-P]

Couple thoughts. I had to look up Average January temps is Madrid. Only a couple degrees cooler than where I live. We have 2000 sq ft on one level and I can heat it down to about 25 F with 1.7 cu ft jotul F400.

Do you know the moisten content of your wood? I tried my first year and again the second your to burn wood that wasn’t very dry and didn’t get much heat.

Second I imagine importing anything that has not passed regulatory approval will be difficult/ rusty or not not possible but you will have to figure that out.

I just installed an insert in my basement and I believe it is over drafting and sending to much heat up the flue and not enough into the room. The correct remedy is a damper. But I was able to locate the secondary air inlet at the bottom of the stove and blocked about 1/3 of it and was able to insert bolts onto 2 of three primary air inlet holes in the firebox. I don’t like this solution as the primary/secondary air balance is off. A damper is a better way.

In short I would make sure your current insert is operating as best I can before choosing a different stove.

Evan

 

[European Burner]

1.235 / 5.000

Resultados de traducción​

Thanks for the reply. I have purchased a moisture meter and am waiting to receive it. Anyway, this is my second year burning wood and both last year and this year, in addition to burning wood, I am burning briquettes since Bodart infire is a multi-fuel and the briquettes are sure they are totally dry. I have tried to burn only wood, only briquettes and combine the two. The B&G Infire produces heat and quickly but with too high a wood consumption to always have big flames because if I do normal fires the fans stop quickly and it is impossible to keep the house at a temperature of 65 F, much less 1600 feet square and that's why I have to keep the rooms closed. I am almost convinced that with a greater quantity of Btus I would achieve my purpose but the question is to know which would be the best option, since I have doubts that with a large stove I can achieve the heat distribution that I can achieve with an insert with a distribution system of heat to other rooms. In addition to the fact that for me it is already very important that the fires are long-lasting with each load and not have to put firewood every hour or 2 hours.

 

[EbS-P]

The Infire is much more complex than I had realized. Are you able to confirm everything is working properly?

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[European Burner]

My Bodart infire works perfectly and very well, I bought it in a store that was in clearance at a very good price and they sold it to me as a top product in its category. I recognize that it has a great quality and is capable of burning firewood in any corner of the interior. In addition, its use and handling is fun. I always use the ashtray with the lever in wood mode since in charcoal mode it burns too fast. I cannot lower the primary air regulator to 8 or 9 because it is so critical that the fans stop and I don't have enough heat. If this regulator puts them between 1 and 3, a log may not burn completely. I have to always have the fan air flow potentiometer at maximum to be able to have heat while they are running. If the insert only heated a room, it might be that I had to lower the airflow speed of the fans, but in my case I can't. Yesterday I had it in operation for about 8 hours and it heated both floors but with all the rooms closed and the consumption of firewood was too high. I wish I could do the same but with all the rooms in the house open and with moderate burns. Now that I have discovered this forum I really appreciate being able to do 10 or 12 hour burns and with the inserts that are marketed in Europe that I know of it is not very possible. I would like to know your evaluations and experiences.

 

[European Burner]

Pensamientos de pareja. Tuve que buscar las temperaturas medias de enero en Madrid. Solo un par de grados más fresco que donde vivo. Tenemos 2000 pies cuadrados en un nivel y puedo calentarlo a unos 25 F con 1.7 pies cúbicos jotul F400.

¿Conoce el contenido de humedad de su madera? Probé mi primer año y nuevamente el segundo para quemar madera que no estaba muy seca y no recibía mucho calor.

En segundo lugar, imagino que importar cualquier cosa que no haya pasado la aprobación regulatoria será difícil / oxidado o no será posible, pero tendrás que averiguarlo.

Acabo de instalar un inserto en mi sótano y creo que se está redactando demasiado y se está calentando mucho la chimenea y no lo suficiente en la habitación. El remedio correcto es un amortiguador. Pero pude ubicar la entrada de aire secundaria en la parte inferior de la estufa y bloqueé aproximadamente 1/3 y pude insertar pernos en 2 de los tres orificios de entrada de aire primario en la cámara de combustión. No me gusta esta solución porque el equilibrio de aire primario / secundario está desactivado. Un amortiguador es una mejor forma.

En resumen, me aseguraría de que su inserto actual funcione lo mejor que pueda antes de elegir una estufa diferente.

Evan

Es interesante saber que se puede calentar con una Jotul F400 de 2000 pies cuadrados en una sola planta. Creo que las estufas son superiores a los insertos cuando se trata de difundir el calor. ¿Existe una gran diferencia de temperatura entre el lugar donde se encuentra la estufa y el resto de habitaciones? ¿Cuánto tiempo se tarda en calentar la casa desde que enciendes la estufa?
Translation via Google:
Interesting to know that it can be heated with a 2000 sq ft Jotul F400 on one floor. I think stoves are superior to inserts when it comes to diffusing heat. Is there a big difference in temperature between the place where the stove is located and the rest of the rooms? How long does it take to heat the house since you turn on the stove?

 

[EbS-P]

The temp difference can be 10 degrees F between the living room and the back bedrooms. The colder it gets the larger the difference. My stove is set inside my masonry fireplace. It’s not perfect but works. I have an insert in my downstairs masonry fireplace. It’s is larger than my stove but heats well. I based my stove choice on looks (has to be white) and easy operation. my father-in-law has an F400 so I knew how it ran. It’s really undersized for the coldest 10 days of the year. With the new insert I can easily heat 3000 sq ft on those cold days. (It is on the basement).

If I want to bring the whole house up 5 degrees F it would take 12-18hours and probably 3-6 loads of wood burned hot and the living room would be at at least 10 degrees warmer and the outside temp was 40F. And this would be during the day. If the temps drop below 25 F i really can’t hold the temperature and it will start to drop. That doesn’t happen for any long periods of time. It takes a lot of heat to raise the temp 5 degrees.

 

[begreen]

It depends on many factors. We had the F400 in a 2000 sq ft old, 2 story farmhouse with relatively high heat loss due to too many windows. The stove worked well until outdoor temps got below 25ºF. Then it had to be stoked with new wood every 3-4 hrs. and a ~5º room temperature swing was noticeable between the high fire (650ºF SST) and low (350ºF SST), particularly in areas farthest away from the stove. Now we have the larger, more convective PE T6 stove this is much less of an issue, for this house. (The T6 has essentially the same firebox that is in the PE FP30.) Temperature swing now is usually less than 2º. When the outdoor temperature gets below freezing running the blower really helps distribute the heat throughout the house. The floorplan of our house is open on the first floor and no doors are closed off upstairs.

When temperatures are very cold, the T6 needs to be reloaded every 6-8 hrs. With temperatures from 35-45ºF reloads are every 10-12 hrs. though at 45º we often are burning partial loads, especially for a morning fire when we know the sun will be warming up the house in a few hours.

 

[velvetfoot]

I personally think that heating any two story place is going to be problematic. Even with a central staircase and natural convection, my upstairs is always considerably colder than downstairs. I have accepted that, while it does make it somewhat warmer upstairs, other heat must also be run.

You seem to be ahead of the game with actual ductwork going up to the second floor, even though it is imperfect

The flush profile of the insert looks good I guess, but there's always a tradeoff in capacity, and in the fact that logs must be loaded lengthwise, rather than front to back.

It sounds like you could experimentally manually override the distribution fan. If you achieved better results, you could hack in a different thermo switch, or something.

While wood heat is cyclical in nature, having to feed the stove every two hours is too much.

How about that ash grate? Is that opened or closed appropriately for the fuel used?

On a side note, I love how they put the rug right up to the insert. Maybe it's fireproof, or at least, cheap, lol.

 

[begreen]

I personally think that heating any two story place is going to be problematic. Even with a central staircase and natural convection, my upstairs is always considerably colder than downstairs. I have accepted that, while it does make it somewhat warmer upstairs, other heat must also be run.

It depends on the house layout and stove location. In our house, the upstairs was getting too hot due to the open floorplan, large stairwell and close proximity of the stove. I had to build a false transom between the living room and hallway in order to block the convective flow of heat to the upstairs. That has worked out quite well.

 

[velvetfoot]

Everybody's situation is different, I guess.

 

[European Burner]

Personalmente, creo que calentar cualquier lugar de dos pisos será problemático. Incluso con una escalera central y convección natural, mi piso de arriba siempre es considerablemente más frío que el de abajo. He aceptado que, si bien hace que el piso de arriba esté algo más cálido, también se debe ejecutar otra calefacción.

Pareces estar por delante del juego con conductos reales que van hasta el segundo piso, aunque es imperfecto

El perfil al ras del inserto se ve bien, supongo, pero siempre hay una compensación en la capacidad y en el hecho de que los troncos deben cargarse a lo largo, en lugar de de adelante hacia atrás.

Parece que podría anular manualmente el ventilador de distribución de forma experimental. Si obtuviste mejores resultados, podrías piratear un interruptor térmico diferente, o algo así.

Si bien el calor de la leña es de naturaleza cíclica, tener que alimentar la estufa cada dos horas es demasiado.

¿Qué tal esa rejilla de cenizas? ¿Está abierto o cerrado apropiadamente para el combustible usado?

En una nota al margen, me encanta cómo colocan la alfombra hasta el inserto. Quizás sea incombustible, o al menos, barato, jejeje.

Ya te dije que en mi caso logramos igualar casi por completo la temperatura de la planta baja y la planta superior. Supongo que en mi caso la distribución de la casa en sí me favorece mucho y definitivamente el sistema de distribución de aire a través del inserto a otras estancias es fundamental para esto, y que solo tengo una de las dos tuberías disponibles ocupada, ya que podría usar otro conducto para calentar otra habitación pero ni siquiera es necesario. Por eso me preocupa que con un PE FP30 que en teoría trabaja a un btus promedio más alto, podría abrir todas las puertas de la casa. Aquí en Europa existen inserciones similares de la marca Spartherm, Stuv u otras de concepto similar. Pero de lo que estoy seguro es de que ninguno de ellos puede mantenerse caliente con tiempos de recarga prolongados. Y eso'

 

[European Burner]

Ya te dije que en mi caso logramos igualar casi por completo la temperatura de la planta baja y la planta superior. Supongo que en mi caso la distribución de la casa en sí me favorece mucho y definitivamente el sistema de distribución de aire a través del inserto a otras estancias es fundamental para esto, y que solo tengo una de las dos tuberías disponibles ocupada, ya que podría usar otro conducto para calentar otra habitación pero ni siquiera es necesario. Por eso me preocupa que con un PE FP30 que en teoría trabaja a un btus promedio más alto, podría abrir todas las puertas de la casa. Aquí en Europa existen inserciones similares de la marca Spartherm, Stuv u otras de concepto similar. Pero de lo que estoy seguro es de que ninguno de ellos puede mantenerse caliente con tiempos de recarga prolongados. Y eso'

And that's what catches my attention about catalytic stoves,

 

[European Burner]

I already told you that in my case we managed to almost completely equalize the temperature of the ground floor and the top floor. I suppose that in my case the distribution of the house itself favors me a lot and definitely the air distribution system through the insert to other rooms is essential for this, and that I only have one of the two available pipes occupied, since it could use another duct to heat another room but it is not even necessary. That is why I have the concern that with a PE FP30 that in theory works at a higher average btus, it could open all the doors of the house. Here in Europe there are similar inserts from the brand Spartherm, Stuv or others of a similar concept. But what I'm sure of is that none of them can keep warm with long recharge times. And that's what catches my attention about catalytic stoves,

 

[St. Coemgen]

In addition, no brand of stoves or fireplaces is marketed in Europe except Pacific Energy.

Not sure... Are you talking about inserts for fireplaces? I have a La Nordica stove. Made in Italy. They have plenty of such inserts.
.
Their Spanish web site on inserts:

Estufas, hogares y calderas de leña y de pellet - La Nordica Extraflame

Descubre las estufas, los hogares, las calderas y los termoproductos de pellet y de leña La Nordica Extraflame.

www.lanordica-extraflame.com

If you meant something else, apologies. Please explain what you meant.

I do not understand if it is because of ecological regulations or because there is no interest in the distribution of these products or for other reasons. Also in Europe that I know of there are no catalytic stoves and vendors don't even know they exist. But I would try to import a wood burning appliance from the USA if that was my decision.

Rules, traditions, and ideas about wood burning are different in the EU. Especially regarding wood burning. One rule is over night burns are often not allowed. That is why most every wood burning stove you buy in the EU says in the user manual, to not burn overnight. Even if you imported an American catalytic, you may have problems getting it legally installed (cough... cough... depends on the "local" government competency....),

In the EU, one is rather recommended to better insulate their house. Remove drafts. Etc. That often removes the need to burn overnight.

Maybe also consider a more European traditional mass heater stoves (you burn them once a day, and they heat the house/rooms for a day or more).

 

[St. Coemgen]

I already told you that in my case we managed to almost completely equalize the temperature of the ground floor and the top floor

Heat rises by nature. It does not move horizontally very easily. You have to make it move. Consider some fans. A link on some ideas how to move heat around your house:

A non-commercial service in support of responsible home heating with wood - How to Move Heat Around Your House

The Wood Heat Organization was formed to support the public in the responsible use of wood energy in the home. We fulfill our mandate by providing reliable information, by conducting research into wood heating-related issues and by representing the public interest in discussions of policies that...

www.woodheat.org

Also, look into if you house is well sealed. Rooms in the back, if have any air leaks, will never get warm, even with fans, as the stove in the main room will simply constantly pull in cold air from the leaky back room to feed the air for the fire.

You may need to do a house air seal test. And if you have stoves in the back room, even with an OAK, you may need to run them simply to keep air moving through an otherwise cold stove (one can not fully seal a stove from air leaks) to the hot stove.

Hope this helps.

 

[European Burner]

With the B&G infire fans and the heat distribution duct to the upstairs room the heat reaches perfectly, up to here no problem. In addition, the house is quite well insulated but in my opinion there is a lack of more btus to achieve the same result by opening the rest of the rooms.
As for burning at night we do not have any legal restrictions so there would be no problem. That is why catalytic stoves are very interesting, and I also think that it would save a lot of firewood consumption. Nor do I think it was impossible to buy in the USA from a supplier and send it to Europe. Are Nordica stoves catalytic? I think they are not.

 

[St. Coemgen]

With the B&G infire fans and the heat distribution duct to the upstairs room the heat reaches perfectly, up to here no problem.

That was understood that upstairs was getting heated. But you said you had to close doors on the ground floor, which means you may have a horizontal heating issue.

In addition, the house is quite well insulated but in my opinion

When was your house built? If before mid-1990's, then probably not well insulated. If built between mid-1990 and 2008 then it is probably "okay", but if built after 2008 then it is probably well insulated as that was when the new rules came into effect in the EU.

One way to check is to see if you have single, double or triple pane windows. Triple pane are the best. Also if you house is made of insulated brick, there should be at least 4 cm of external insulation (6cm to 8cm is better).

there is a lack of more btus to achieve the same result by opening the rest of the rooms.

This is likely. You should look into some online calculators to see what your heating needs are (in the EU, the values are in KW not BTU). Also, the US use sq ft, but this is not always realistic, as this assumes a standard ceiling height, which may not be true in a European house. Since you are really heating a volume, you need to calculate what heater you need based on your actual volume to heat.

Heat Output Calculator :

: Heat Output Calculator - Chimney and Flues Brands Home and Garden Gas Fires & Stoves Electric Fires & Fireplaces Black Friday Sale Stoves wood burning stoves, wood burners, multifuel stoves, multi fuel stoves, multi-fuel stoves, woodburners, log burners, flues, chimney flues, flue systems

www.glowing-embers.co.uk

Choosing a Wood Burning Stove

Heat Output: How to Choose a Wood-burning Stove

www.pearsonsofduns.co.uk

If you prefer BTU, you can convert here:

Kilowatts (kW) to BTU/hr conversion calculator

Kilowatts (kW) to BTU per hour, power conversion calculator. Enter the power in kilowatts and press the Convert button:

www.rapidtables.com

That is why catalytic stoves are very interesting, and I also think that it would save a lot of firewood consumption. Nor do I think it was impossible to buy in the USA from a supplier and send it to Europe. Are Nordica stoves catalytic? I think they are not.

Catalytic stoves may indeed save you wood. Or they may not. It will depend on your needs and how you use them. Also in understanding the technology.

Catalytic stoves were designed for the US market, where many houses are made of 2X4 (actually only 3.5 in wide). And do not have much insulation. These stoves can burn a long time, 24X7 with very low emissions, at very low energy output per hour, to offset the poor insulation and heat loss especially overnight. The European stoves use a tertiary air burning to burn the smoke and also improve air quality of the out gas. But they need to burn at higher temperatures at their lowest setting than a catalytic. Thus, yes, they will burn more wood at their lowest setting. But to assume you will save more wood means you need only heat at the lowest catalytic setting, and you need to heat 24/7; either may or may not be true. That is, wood, no matter what stove is used, always has the same amount of potential heat. A catalytic simply gives the option to release that heat slower. But efficiency wise, simply based on converting wood mass into heat energy, it may actually not be that much better. For example, my stove has an efficiency of 80.9%, similar to the Blazeking Princess at 81%. What matters is "how" that conversion happens, at what needed rate.

For example, from this:

https://www.blazeking.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/Broch_King_Princess.pdf

The results state that their stove burned 1.02 lbs (0.45 kg) of wood an hour at minimum setting. My stove at a minimum setting will burn about 1.5 kg per hour. WOW what a savings.... Three times more wood an hour. Or.... maybe not. First of all, the lowest my stove goes is 6 KW and I need at least that to heat my space. The 1.02 lbs per hour was at an output of 13,000 BTU (about 4 KW). So running the catalytic at its lowest, most wood saving rate would not heat my house. And since I only burn about 10 hours a day, since my house holds the heat overnight being well insulated, I only burn 15 kg in a 24 hour period, or 0.625 kg an hour, or 1.4 lbs an hour. But again, I am burning at 6 KW, or 20,000 BTU, not 4 KW (13,000 BTU). So am I really saving wood not using catalytic? You can start to see, it can be complicated, and results can vary depending your wood burning needs.

That is not to say catalytics do not have other significant benefits: Huge firebox, really long burn times, etc, really are real benefits to consider. Especially if one is not home all the time to feed the fire. And they do actually have the lowest particulate output of any stoves, so very good for the environment.

I am not trying to dissuade you from a US catalytic stove, simply pointing out that it may be more complicated than you may think. Also, do consider, if anything breaks on such a stove, you may not be able to heat for many days or weeks till a replacement part arrives from the USA, as there are no local distributors you can drive to and get a part that same day.

Hope this helps.

 

[stoveliker]

Well said.
But, all that said, I can also run my stove hotter, using more wood per hour, and providing more heat per hour (and having to reload sooner than when running on low output).

In short, with the tuning capability of a stove, you regulate how fast the (finite amount of) heat from the wood load is being released. That provides a range of heat outputs. Some stoves are at the high end of the spectrum, some at the low end
A cat stove may be able to provide a lower (and longer) output, and may be able to be as hot (and for shorter times) as another secondary burn stove. This depends on the firebox size and (technology ->) specifications of the stove.

Indeed efficiencies of modern stoves are mostly similar. As such, you might want to go with a cat stove, but I'm not sure it's worth the (importing, permitting) hassle to do so. I have not seen the tell tale sign that you need a lower heat output - you are not heating yourself out of your home. Therefore, I'd suggest to look into BTU needs you have and reconsider your current appliances versus possible other ones that are on the market where you are in terms of your heat needs rather than burn times.

 

[European Burner]

Thank you very much for the appreciations. My house was built in 1991 and has good insulation, the windows are double pane and the walls are double brick 18.5 "thick. I still think that my main problem is the lack of power rating in my current wood burning equipment. for a whole house warming.
Yesterday I did a test that I cannot do during the week since both my wife and I leave home at 7:00 a.m. and we do not return until 8:00 p.m. or 9:00 p.m., except on Saturdays when she is in the afternoon at home and on Sundays if we spend the whole day at home. Yesterday I lit the fireplace at 10:45 a.m. and stopped feeding it at 24:30 a.m. with what was running for about 14 hours continuously. For this I had the fireplace running at maximum power all day with large fires. I opened all the rooms in the house both on the ground floor and on the upper floor. The maximum outside temperature was 55.4 F during the day and in the afternoon and evening it did not drop below 51.8 F so it was not cold outside. The result was that the entire house was heated with very equal temperatures between the two floors and differences of only 35.6 F in the coldest rooms. The problem is that it took more than 8 hours to reach that temperature and the funny thing is that it had 34.7 F in the living room less than any other day that I turn it on and this is where the fireplace is, so the heat travels to the rest of the house. On the other hand, if it is true that the horizontal movement is more difficult since in the kitchen is where there was more difference in temperature of the whole house, 37.4 F. After doing this test the conclusion is that with more nominal power it would achieve The objective of heating the house in less time, since closing all the rooms during the week I get in one hour to put the two floors of 60.8 F before turning on to 66 F and 69 F after 2 hours of operation. Also keep in mind that on days with temperatures of 32 F to 41 F you could no longer heat the whole house or put the B&G on all day. The problem of the temperature of the kitchen could be solved either with a direct channeling of the insert or with a fan room to room.
With a high-powered catalytic stove, I could close the rooms the same way as now and in low-power mode I could find myself at home with a more comfortable temperature than starting from zero, but with the doubt of not knowing how the heat would travel.
With an insert with more calorific value, I would have the advantage of knowing that heat travels very well in my house, but I have the disadvantage that the burns are not so long.

 

[St. Coemgen]

the funny thing is that it had 34.7 F in the living room less than any other day that I turn it on and this is where the fireplace is

It is really unusual for the fire room to be cold. My impression from that is you might have an air leak in part of your house, letting in cold air, that travels to the fire room due to the fire draft pulling it toward the fire, keeping that room cold. As I suggested earlier, you may need to do a pressure test of you house. Or at least walk around the house with an incense stick, which will smoke, and pause at each door, and at each wall in each room, and see if the smoke goes straight up (no house draft) or curves to one side or another or up or down, (you have an air leak). Find the air leak if it exists.

 

[European Burner]

It is really unusual for the fire room to be cold. My impression from that is you might have an air leak in part of your house, letting in cold air, that travels to the fire room due to the fire draft pulling it toward the fire, keeping that room cold. As I suggested earlier, you may need to do a pressure test of you house. Or at least walk around the house with an incense stick, which will smoke, and pause at each door, and at each wall in each room, and see if the smoke goes straight up (no house draft) or curves to one side or another or up or down, (you have an air leak). Find the air leak if it exists.

Thanks for the reply. I will do the check to rule out air leaks, but I did not have to explain myself correctly. The living room, where the fireplace is located, is not colder than the rest of the house, but when I have opened all the rooms and as the heat tends to rise to the upper floor, it turns out that the temperature of the living room in that case is not It rises above 66.5 F. And the good thing is that the temperature of the whole house is very homogeneous, where there is the greatest difference in temperature is on the first floor in the kitchen, which is near the living room when the heat rises, but that would have an easy solution . The goal I want to achieve is to reach 71 F in a homogeneous way and that to this day I cannot achieve it, much less when the outside temperature is below 50 F. I even think that I could save the heat distribution ducts as I now have at the Bodart & Gonay and would surely get the heat up perfectly to the top floor. So a Blaze King 40 would be a good option for me with the possibility of long burns and better control of firewood consumption. The other question I have is that with the same configuration that I have in the B&G, if I decided on a PE FP30, how many hours could each burn last as maximum and if the temperature would be maintained without the fans running.