Low and slow is right! I'm sure that comparison was not helping my expectations any.Sounds like you have it down pat. Also I think some of your issues may have been comparing it to the Yukon. Low and slow rather than hot and fast.
Yeah, I guess, kinda...throw wood in 'em, light it...heat! Dunno about magic...but a good heat(ing) device, yeah...better than heating with snowballs
Ahh, now I gotcha. I had one of those things...creosote factory! But to be fair, I was pretty early on in my wood burning learning curve and I was burning pretty wet wood. I think they would actually work pretty good used with a smoke dragon that is on a dry wood diet...There is a device called a "magic heat" that mounts in the flue of regular wood stoves. It has tubes and a blower to extract flue gas heat much like these furnaces. The woodstove folks hate them, call them bad names, and ridicule those who use them.
Well, when I got home from work tstat said 71*, this was at 4:30, so almost 10.5 hrs, high of 25* out today. Not too bad I guess, still had good coals for an easy relight. Threw in some more Hickory and Oak...it took a while, but it is back up to 72* in here as of about 8:30-9:00. I really don't like that I can only raise the house temp 1, maybe 2* during the hottest part of the burn, seems like it should do more...
Yeah you got the basic idea.I like your turb. I don't have much experience with them, but you got me to thinking that it might be just as easy to slide a 6" wide strip of appropriate sheet metal and take some time to twist it into a helix. I gather that's the idea.
Just got it today...played for an hour or so. Didn't see anything that I didn't suspect already. Not real cold out though.Brenn, break out the new camera when you get it, and you'll see better results.
Like stihly said, I was comparing to the Yukon, and to make matters worse, a highly optimized Yukon, WAY miserly on wood compared to stock...now if I could only get it to be as user friendly as the Tundra, I'd really have something!To keep a house warm for that long on that amount of wood is not bad, considering old school furnaces could use double or more.
Spent some time on that site yesterday and watched their YouTube video. Pretty cool stuff. Wonder why you need the various different configurations ? My assumption is that one design extracts heat better in certain situations than others.I got the idea for the one I made from that website I linked to earlier today.
Well, I think "turn key" wood burners are boring...so there!The one thing they definitely got right with this thing is the whole marketing it towards the do-it-your-selfers. Maybe they should at least include instructions for all the fabricating and tweaking one needs to do in order for it to be useful.
I've seen some DIY boiler guys use that...
Dang it man! That is some fo-real modern art! And your just gonna soot it all up!Well @brenndatomu inspired me with this talk about turbulators, so I had to try.
In my basement I quickly spotted a 5.25” long chunk of spare 6” diameter black stove pipe, that unfolds to a circumference of about 19”. I used tin snips and cut it along the black lines shown in this drawing. A couple shots of CAD to give an idea of the intent. Many chances for the fins to catch air at the center and bring it to the HX tube surface, but without blocking the ability of the gases to pass through to the flue.
The fins were easy to bend to shape with my (gloved) hands, and I gave the piece a twist between each stage of fins. I test-fit it into a scrap piece of 6” ductwork, no problems. Finally, it slid into place very easily. The HX cover is held in place with a bolt (shown) that obscured a straight shot into the HX tube, but this redneck turbulator easily flexed around it.
I just got it installed 15 minutes ago, so no news yet. We’ll see if I can tell a difference.
It’s quite crude, but it was worthwhile because it was easy to do, easy to adapt the design (or do over) if I wanted to, required almost no tools or skill using cheap and available material, and will make an excellent addition to my neighbor’s windchime collection if I don’t want it.
Plus, it should be just as easy to do the same for the 2 outside tubes if I desire, even though their diameter is smaller.
Anyways, maybe this will encourage someone to try who is hesitant that great skill or materials or welding would be required.
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fo-real modern art!
Did you model the airflow across that? Not sure after a quick study session what the flow path will look like exactly