Been doing lots of research here on hearth, lots of long old threads about diameter and flow and velocity and so on. Here is my question. I have yet to fire my new WS IS, it's on the hearth and before I get into the season where I need it id like to at least meet most requirements set before me buy Woodstock. 15 feet of 6" chimney from the collar of the stove. I measure mine at 12 feet from the collar this is with a 30" rise from the stove, a 90 degree elbow, about 18~20 inches of horizontal 6 inch all in black single wall. Feeds through a masonry thimble into a 7x7 clay lined masonry chimney that stops at a total height of around 12 foot ( from stove collar). With the elbows and oversized 7x7 clay I'm fearful that my "wing and a prayer" will leave us cold this fall. My immediate thought was to line with the correct size, but I really want to add 4-5 feet on top of where my chimney stops. Is there any way to attach a section of double wall on top of the cap that finishes of the liner kit, like where the cap is supposed to fit. Or any suggestions? I'll try and get a picture in the morning if that helps. Btw I don't want to extend my masonry chimney any higher, it's already broken off and fallen on the roof once about 15 years ago in a hurricane. I don't want too worry about that every time we get a stiff breeze. It was rebuilt but this time they made it noticeably shorter.
Extending my chimney
- Thread starter chance04
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kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Sounds like you are on the right track, There are a few members here that do professional installs that can help you with specifics, there are definantly kits that allow you to run a liner in the masonary, then a plat on top of the chimney with adapter so you can install a couple lengths of triple wall class 1 pipe. Three things to consider right off the bat are you may need to add support rods to support the class 1 pipe, you may want to consider changing out the single wall pipe with the 90 elbow to double wall pipe with (2) 45deg bends (it allows for better draft, and the double wall keeps the flue gasses warmer) and finally does your existing chimney have a clean out?
Pretty much everything kenny said is right other than you want to fun double wall class a chimney at the top. Not triple wall and there is no class 1. But yes i would suggest running an insulated liner then is you need more height add an anchor/adapter plate at the top and run a few feet of class a. If it was me i would start off with just the insulted liner and double walll connector and see how it works i bet it will be fine. You can always add the class a after the fact.
JA600L
Minister of Fire
I had actually thought about going down to a 5.5 inch insulated liner but decided against it after speaking with Woodstock, so my plan is to line with 6" smooth flex liner and pour thermix or another loose dry insulation to try and take advantage of any space left in between the liner and clay. Does the 36 inch rise from the stove still apply if I use 45's rather than the 90? If so I don't have enough hearth to run 45s. I plan on bracing the extension pipe to the roof of indeed I can get it to fit to the top plate
HarvestMan
Burning Hunk
I hate smoke spillage! Lived 25 years with a hearthstone harvest side loader that had that tendency and I have a 28 foot class a chimney. Very pleased my new Fireview doesn't have that problem.
Hope the OP can get proper draw to prevent spillage. I mostly avoided the problem by only loading onto a coal bed with no active flames.
JA600L
Minister of Fire
It's not an extreme problem. I just know it's been an issue. One guy I know of with a masonry chimney has an electric draft inducer on the pipe. It's definitely not something you want to neglect.
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Hey chance, I have a similar problem. I spoke to a guy I know who is a respectable chimney and stove installer. He recommends bolting a plate to the crown of the chimney which can accommodate supporting the top of the liner and transitioning to the class a. I think the cost was somewhere around $1200. But he's pretty expensive so you may do better than that with cost.
Also to answer your question: that top plate will not properly connect to class a. I have a three foot section of class a and that same top plate. I was hoping to do the same thing you're thinking.
Also to answer your question: that top plate will not properly connect to class a. I have a three foot section of class a and that same top plate. I was hoping to do the same thing you're thinking.
I have thought about coming up with another course or two of blocks and bolting/anchoring a fabricated plate to that. What connector could I use though?
FYI chimneylinerdepot and rockford both have suggested a similar anchor plate transition, both are still getting back to me with prices.
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