After babying and tinkering with the engine for 5 years now I'm fed up with it. I googled and came up with a 6.5 HP predator at harbor freight. I had seen the blue max drop-in a few years ago but it looks like it's extinct in the wild. Would the HF work without having to modify anything? I've been spitting the old fashioned way but I cut a big dump trailer full of old doug fir that was decked up for 4 years and most of it too big to split with 3 wedges including the pyramid type and the fancy fiskars maul. There are 3 stuck in a log while I wait for a new bar to cut them out. I'm stuck with bucking it up and renting a splitter for a day this year, got a late start and ended up with more than I bargained for. And there's at least 20 cords worth left that I can have for free lol.
Fed up with blue max splitter engine!
- Thread starter Orerockon
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A lot of splitters have a bolted flange that connects the hydro-pump to the engine, you’ll want to check that the predator engine has the mounting /shaft interfaces that match the pump or you’ll have to get creative
The predator engines are pretty solid and sort of designed to be drop in replacements, so if it looks like it’s going to fit, it probably will. I did a predator (Honda clone) swap on my 70s Ariens snow blower a few years back and it basically bolted right up. I ran it for 3 or 4 years before i sold it and bought a new one… never should have done that.
I swapped in a Predator 6.6 HP (224 cc) Max Performance engine in for the Honda GX200 that originally powered the loader my logging trailer. It bolted right in with no issues.
I went with the 6.6 HP Max over the 6.5 HP (212 cc) because while the HP was essentially the same, the Max had a significantly higher torque spec at 10.23 ft-lbs as compared to the 212cc unit (8.1 ft-lbs). The Honda GX 200 had a torque spec of 9.1 ft-lbs, and I did not want to go any lower.
Once I got the engine broken in, it has better power than the GX200 it replaced. Not hugely different, but enough that I could easily notice it. I don't have a whole lot of hours on the engine yet, so can;t speak as to its durability at this point.
I went with the 6.6 HP Max over the 6.5 HP (212 cc) because while the HP was essentially the same, the Max had a significantly higher torque spec at 10.23 ft-lbs as compared to the 212cc unit (8.1 ft-lbs). The Honda GX 200 had a torque spec of 9.1 ft-lbs, and I did not want to go any lower.
Once I got the engine broken in, it has better power than the GX200 it replaced. Not hugely different, but enough that I could easily notice it. I don't have a whole lot of hours on the engine yet, so can;t speak as to its durability at this point.
As pointed to above...check the bolt pattern for the pump mount, the height of the crank shaft to engine mount and shaft diameter. If there is a difference in diameter it can often be corrected by obtaining the proper size Lovejoy half. Also check the engine mounting bolt pattern.
I used a 2016(?) Predator 13(?) hp engine to swap out a 1980(?) 8(?) hp Tecumseh. The new engine had multiple bolt patterns and the pump flange mounted perfectly. I moved the engine so I didn’t check the base mount. I think the shaft was the same size.
1- Check diameter AND length of shaft. Love joy produces different diameter and length couplings if you need to lengthen or shorten the connection within the pump flange.
2- The engine will most likely include the multiple mounting configurations for the flange. Check the pattern for a match anyway so you can reuse the flange.
3- You may need to drill two or four new mounting holes for the engine block.
1- Check diameter AND length of shaft. Love joy produces different diameter and length couplings if you need to lengthen or shorten the connection within the pump flange.
2- The engine will most likely include the multiple mounting configurations for the flange. Check the pattern for a match anyway so you can reuse the flange.
3- You may need to drill two or four new mounting holes for the engine block.
I noticed you had other posts about starting running issues with the original engine. Maybe this was due to the manufacturer.
However, if you use ethanol fuel you should regularly and frequently use the engine or drain the fuel when expecting non usage, or use non ethanol fuel if you want to avoid starting/running issues.
If you use NON ethanol, buy a tester ($6?) to ensure you have no ethanol, even reputable stations get scammed and you do not want to pay the consequences.
I have found that garaged (not shed/tarped) equipment can go several months without use and still be fine if the fuel is consumed in the next use. Also, I have found that my tarped equipment can go no longer than two weeks before I start noticing running issues with ethanol fuel.
However, if you use ethanol fuel you should regularly and frequently use the engine or drain the fuel when expecting non usage, or use non ethanol fuel if you want to avoid starting/running issues.
If you use NON ethanol, buy a tester ($6?) to ensure you have no ethanol, even reputable stations get scammed and you do not want to pay the consequences.
I have found that garaged (not shed/tarped) equipment can go several months without use and still be fine if the fuel is consumed in the next use. Also, I have found that my tarped equipment can go no longer than two weeks before I start noticing running issues with ethanol fuel.
No need to buy a tester if you want to test fuel for ethanol. Put an inch or two of water in an empty coke bottle. Draw a line on the bottle to mark the water level. Fill the bottle to about 90% full. Cap bottle and shake. Allow fuel/water mixture to settle for a few minutes. The Water will settle out to the bottom (looks almost like an air bubble, but it sinks, instead of floating). If the level of that "water" bubble is higher than the line you drew, you had ethanol in the fuel .
This works because Ethanol is hygroscopic: it attracts and binds preferentially with water. The ethanol in the fuel will combine with the water and the resulting mixture settles out, so it looks as though you have more water than what you started with.
True, no need to use an approved tester to find out if your gas is ethanol. Non ethanol gas will reveal itself instantly with all water on the bottom. Percentage based ethanol will require several minutes to indicate the amount.
I have noticed over the years that practically destructed old equipment is better than new out of the box half the time. I have a Honda hydrostatic riding mower that has been going strong since 2002. It was the last one before they rebadged them John Deere. Except for a little sluggishness and an occasional coughing right cylinder on cold days until it warms up, I have done nothing except the usual maintenance and a couple (PITA) deck belt replacements. I do beat the crap out of it, last week cutting up the logs that I cut to fit in the tractor bucket and dumping them in the cart until it was full to the top (which is finally buckling after 20 years but that's what angle iron is for lol). It took a couple decades to kill an old original Timber Bear saw. Then I killed 2 new expensive Husqvarna and Stihl chainsaws in short order. Now the "cheap" Echo CS400 as been chewing through more cords than both of those saws combined with minimal blade related problems. Crossing my fingers I didn't just jinx myself lol
Agreed completely, new stuff is crap! I got a new snowblower about 5 yrs ago, the first ones engine literally grenaded itself before the first tank of fuel (yes it has oil in it). I warranty replaced it, then 2 years later the auger gearbox blew up (didn’t even shear a shear pin). They wouldn’t warranty the repair, but sent me new gears. It mangled the shaft so bad I had to weld the gear onto it. I filled it with synthetic grease, RTVd the gearbox casing and it’s been running that way since.. but now 2 reverse gears don’t work.
Thanks everybody now I have something to start with. I'll try and get the blowup diagram for the Predator. No sense in hauling one back if I'm not sure about the fit.
Tuesday Dec 16 would be a good day to buy that Predator engine. Harbor Freight has 25% off all engines that day.
Check out the Harbor Freight Extended Service Plan - 2 year replacement with normal use, just keep your receipt handy. It's like a free upgrade very 2 years if you want to go that route....
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