Figuring out an old heatilator "prefab"

[Digitaldave11]

Just bought a 1972 house that at some point had a heatilator type zero clearance all metal fireplace added to living room. I say heatilator because I can't find any identifying marks on it however most of the manuals I can find have similar features to a 1980-ish heatilator (2 intake 2 exhaust vents surrounding fireplace). Got it swept and inspected for the holidays they said it was taken care of, it's capped and and no rust. Got some kiln dried wood and played around on xmas eve. The major problem is smoking into the room once it gets going. I know glass doors should be fully open or fully closed. I have no problem. When. They're closed it seems ok but doors are already almost opaque with soot. Any time I feed the fire I get a puff of smoke back into room.
I started exploring. The inspection noted that the spark arrestor screen on the cap is fine like a window screen. Also on the outside of the faux metal chimney outside I can see a lot of black soot already from just 1 day, smoke is coming from the seems at the top of the cap too. Could this mesh be the culprit?
Question #2 when looking at the flue it appears to be only half or quarter open when it's in full open position. I have no idea what ito supposed to look like. I can post pics of the chimney on my roof tomorow during the day.

 

[pen]

Considering the age and what sounds like good condition, I suspect the previous owners encountered the same problems and didn't use it.

If the screen for the cap is that fine, I'm amazed the thing runs at all and I would suspect that as well.

I think "fully open" might be misleading, and believe what is shown is probably actually as fully open as the system mechanically goes. Unless there is a problem with the linkage.

I look forward to more pictures and applaud you for getting the unit checked out as you have.

Welcome!

 

[bholler]

Also what is the moisture content of that "kiln dried wood" most of it is not dry at all just heated to kill bugs.

 

[SlyFerret]

Open fireplaces send a lot of air up the chimney. That air has to be replaced be air that seeps into the house from the outside. I mention it because your house is of an age where there may have been some work done updating windows and insulation. Is there any chance someone went nuts sealing up the house to prevent air infiltration to make it more efficient?

Try cracking open a window while the fire is burning and see if the smoke starts going up the chimney like it is supposed to.

-SF

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[Squisher]

In your picture from the back. There appears to be some sort of smallish open cardboard box sitting on top of the unit. I'd take that off if it's still there.

 

[begreen]

Can you post a front view from inside the house?

 

[Digitaldave11]

Stuck at work for the time being, I'll see what I can have my wife send me lol. The pics I posted were from when we first moved in. I cleared the area and examined every part of the ducts for mice or holes etc. I was almost perfect except for a big kink. There's adjustable air intake holes that pull air from garage. I know that's not ideal, but I even tried those wide open, no change. I'll get a picture of the cap and front of the hearth asap. I'm well versed in stack effect and technical jargon. The height of the chimney could be kinda low too. I bet once you guys see what the cap looks like now you'll tell me to tear the thing down (I hope not).

 

[Digitaldave11]

One more piece of info, when I reach up i can move the damper butterfly to a "fuller" open position but the linkage definitely doesn't hold it there. I was gonna try to maybe clamp it open and see if it makes a difference.

 

[Digitaldave11]

Here were some more pics I have on hand. Don't worry I removed the vent covers since this was taken. Also some worthless shots of a fire. I don't think I'll get cap pics for another day, argh. I'm only burned that one day and won't burn again until you guys see the cap and (freak out).

 

[begreen]

Take a look around the door frame for a manufacture label. That may identify this fireplace.

 

[Digitaldave11]

Take a look around the door frame for a manufacture label. That may identify this fireplace.

I've looked all over for labels, can't find a thing. I'll try again tonight at 11 when I get off work.

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[bholler]

I've looked all over for labels, can't find a thing. I'll try again tonight at 11 when I get off work.

I am still thinking that allot of your problems may be from wet wood. Do you have a moisture meter? If not go get some of the compressed wood blocks they are dry. The stuff sold as kiln dried wood usually is not dry at all just heated to kill bugs so they can ship it legally.

 

[Digitaldave11]

I am still thinking that allot of your problems may be from wet wood. Do you have a moisture meter? If not go get some of the compressed wood blocks they are dry. The stuff sold as kiln dried wood usually is not dry at all just heated to kill bugs so they can ship it legally.

Gotcha, no I don't have a moisture meter. You could be 100% right I bought it from a grocery store because It was just a test burn. Good heads up on crap kiln dried. I'll see if one of my many, many wood burning neighbors could spare a log. Where can u buy these compressed logs you speak of?

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[bholler]

Where can u buy these compressed logs you speak of?

tractor supply or pretty much anywhere that sells wood pellets. We can get them here at any of the good hardware stores. I would think lowes or home depot would have them to.

 

[Dix]

Ditto on the firewood.

Are the air vents at the front of the FP (top & bottom, both sets) covered, or is that an illusion?

 

[Digitaldave11]

Ditto on the firewood.

Are the air vents at the front of the FP (top & bottom, both sets) covered, or is that an illusion?

That was a pic we took day 1. Yes they were covered. I removed covers. It was paper taped over the vents. Don't worry, I'm not that far gone, but thanks for being observant anyway.

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[Dix]

That was a pic we took day 1. Yes they were covered. I removed covers. It was paper taped over the vents. Don't worry, I'm not that far gone, but thanks for being observant anyway.

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Thank you .... always best to ask

My heatalator, different version



Those foil thingys are really wild

 

[Digitaldave11]

They're 6 inch flexible ducts wrapped in insulation with circulator blowers on the bottom that intake air to circulate around firebox and out the top. The top registers got really hot and we're blowing a nice strong stream of quite warm air. For the few hours I ran it, it maintained the living room at 72 on a 40 degree day, so it definitely puts out some usable heat.

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[Dix]

They're 6 inch flexible ducts wrapped in insulation with circulator blowers on the bottom that intake air to circulate around firebox and out the top. The top registers got really hot and we're blowing a nice strong stream of quite warm air. For the few hours I ran it, it maintained the living room at 72 on a 40 degree day, so it definitely puts out some usable heat.

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For those outside temps. Keep that in mind.

 

[Digitaldave11]

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[begreen]

Looks like an easy roof to work off of. I'd go up there for a close inspection. Bring a wire brush.

 

[Dix]

Looks like an easy roof to work off of. I'd go up there for a close inspection. Bring a wire brush.

And a screw driver or two

 

[Digitaldave11]

And a screw driver or two

Sorry for my naivety but what are the screwdrivers for?

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[begreen]

Cap removal

 

[Digitaldave11]

Quick update for anyone who read this with similar problems looking for an answer. I've educated myself a lot and have scoured the forum relentlessly.
Haven't had a chance to get on roof, I need a ladder and the weather is crap. The soot doesn't look any worse or different now though either.

I took the advice given on getting some compressed wood logs. They have redstone fuel bricks at my tractor supply for $3 for 3 big ones. They work awesome!

I've had 2 fires now with the doors open and zero smoking.
Here is some of what I learned hopefully this helps someone.
I was using too much kindling. At first I used some brown paper bags because I didn't have newspaper on hand; now I realize that was a big No-No! Also I was using duraflame fatwood sticks I found at home depot, they produce black sooty smoke and I should have used only one or two instead of the 10 I wasted trying to burn crap wood. I learned to not waste time or money on those bundles of wood you see at gas stations. I thought it would be fine just to test things out. After learning about pricing/cords/etc. They're basically charging 1000 a cord for bark-on piney green nonsense. I wasn't letting the fire get started for long enough, I was so excited to have a fire I didn't let it get up to the right Temps to have a good draft. I didnt have the grate as far back in the firebox as it could have been. I also learned there's 2 outside air vents that I keep wide open now. I also used my jet engine tipped propane torch to heat up the flue for a full minute or more. I think the most important change I made was the wood fuel blocks but if any of this helps anyone else in my situation it was worth posting.

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