Finally decided on a stove

[Nealm66]

I’ve been back and forth on either pellet or wood, trying to absorb as much as I could from this site. Finally decided on wood. Went with a cape cod from a good local dealer. Install should be in about 4 weeks. Through the wall and up a second story with 12 - 12 pitch metal roof gable end. Wall is unfinished drywall and installer says cement board after, tight to wall with no gap, for brick or tile. Pretty excited !

 

[begreen]

Wall is unfinished drywall and installer says cement board after, tight to wall with no gap, for brick or tile.

I can understand the excitement, but not this part. Tight to the wall is not even close to possible, regardless of wall covering if there are combustibles behind it.

 

[Woodsplitter67]

sometimes its best to pull the manual and look at the specs. Open the manual and there's a section for installation make sure you read it and make sure the installer follows the specs. If in doubt post here and we will try to help you out... Tight to the wall will not be a good idea...

 

[brenndatomu]

Wall is unfinished drywall and installer says cement board after, tight to wall with no gap, for brick or tile.

That comment would make me question everything they told me...and if I even want to trust them to do the install...

 

[Nealm66]

I was thinking the same thing. It’s why I posted it. So , the store I bought the stove is Wallace stoves in Tacoma Washington . The installer has been installing stoves for them for many years according to the salesman. My nephew is a journeyman brick layer and said he normally puts cement board up with spacers and then the pipe is installed. I want to make sure everything is in place before the install. The installer asked for pictures of inside and out so when I send them I will double check with the tight to the wall thing and if it’s same response, I’m open to suggestions . Thanks for your feedback

 

[Bad LP]

How is this possible? Have you misunderstood something or are they trying to burn your house down?

 

[Nealm66]

Ok, not the stove, the cement board for attaching brick or tile. I might have not been clear. Still, I was under the impression there needed to be an air space

 

[brenndatomu]

For a chimney, just use a "through the wall" kit...for the wall heat shield you need to use something non combustible that is spaced at least 1" out from the wall to be able to use the listed reduced clearances...

 

[vwmike]

I think he means the cement board goes tight to the wall with no spacers, which is fine as long as the stove is the required distance away.

 

[Nealm66]

Ok, yes, that’s what he said. I thought there needs to be a 1” space or more. Thanks very much.

 

[brenndatomu]

Oh, yeah, if the CTC is met than you don't need the cement board at all...

 

[begreen]

Ok, not the stove, the cement board for attaching brick or tile. I might have not been clear. Still, I was under the impression there needed to be an air space

Wallace is an established shop. It sounds like there may be a misunderstanding here. The Cape Cod's minimum clearance from combustibles (the drywall), from the back in a straight-wall installation, using double-wall stove pipe is 11 3/4". For a corner install it is 7 1/4".

Now the manual also states:
Clearances may be reduced by methods specified in NFPA 211, listed wall shields, pipe shields, or other means approved by local building or fire officials.

This may be what the installer is thinking if there is to be a proper NFPA 211 wall shield in place. In order to reduce clearances below what the manual states you will need a written signoff by the inspecting authority. Still, that does not give a tight enough clearance for the corner of the stove to touch the wall. And definitely not the back of the stove. (the stove pipe has a minimum clearance too.)

Is this a corner or straight-wall install? Will the installation be permitted and inspected?

 

[Nealm66]

So, I was talking about a space between the cement board and the Sheetrock, not the stove. I’m going to have some brick work done after install and wanted everything to be ready for stove install. I was under the impression there needed to be a space but installer said no. I feel the same way about Wallace store. It was the main reason I went with the cape cod is I know the store will stand behind it

 

[Nealm66]

Sorry for confusion, trying to do this while at work, I’ve gone in the store a couple winters now and the sales guy Bruce always has the stoves all burning and has plenty of patents for old stove mentality like mine. Said I can burn a small fire for less heat when needed and that he comes into the store in the morning with hot coals to start. Says they carry any of the parts if needed and says it’s a good stove. Says two small fires for break in and then just use as normal. I’m super stoked even though I’ve read some not great reviews, I believe Wallace would have dropped them if they really sucked that bad

 

[begreen]

So, I was talking about a space between the cement board and the Sheetrock, not the stove. I’m going to have some brick work done after install and wanted everything to be ready for stove install. I was under the impression there needed to be a space but installer said no. I feel the same way about Wallace store. It was the main reason I went with the cape cod is I know the store will stand behind it

Yes, if the stove manual's clearances are honored, then there's no need for a space behind the cement backerboard.
I've only been to Wallace's once, but liked them and will use them for parts now that Tom's shop is closed. They have a full selection of stoves. We had one serious failure reported with a Cape Cod when it first came out. I think this was with the insert. Not sure if that has been addressed it was a few years ago. One issue was the lack of a flame shield in front of the catalyst. Have they added this now?

 

[Highbeam]

The whole thread took a dive based on a misunderstanding. Nobody is putting the stove tight to the wall! The cape cod is an attractive stove. Can’t wait for the pictures which will help folks understand what you’re talking about with the cement board.

Myself, I bought some Lopi parts from Wallace at a now closed branch store in Bonney Lake and the old guy there was a jerk. The young kid was a greasy car salesman type. Those kinds of impressions stick but I’m sure there are some good folks there too.

 

[begreen]

I've only been to the Parkland store for Lopi parts too. They were pretty helpful and prices were reasonable. I hung out for an extra hour to look at stoves and chat with the staff. A friend was looking at getting a gas freestander so I did ask more about them than wood stoves.

 

[Nealm66]

I was really looking at the blaze kings but the dealer close by was pretty steep on pipe and install and stoves were not they’re main item. I almost went with a Harmon p68 but I get firewood for free except time and labor

 

[begreen]

Wallace was a Blaze King, Lopi, PE and Jotul dealer when I was there. Has that changed?

 

[Nealm66]

Well, not on display or on they’re website. I did see a princess there a couple years ago on sale, might have been a last in stock type of thing

 

[begreen]

Yes, it was a few years ago. They had a couple of BK stoves on the floor at the time. I just checked their website and it looks like they have dropped BK and added IronStrike.

 

[BKVP]

Yes, it was a few years ago. They had a couple of BK stoves on the floor at the time. I just checked their website and it looks like they have dropped BK and added IronStrike.

We moved the line from that dealer to Aqua Rec with 5 locations in the region.