**Finally going to purchase our stove!! (Osburn 2300)

[BsFire]

Hey all - it's been a while, but we've finally made a decision. So, we’ve decided on putting a wood stove in the basement. We’re going with the Osborn 2300 stove on legs.

https://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/Osburn_2300_Osburn_Stove_Osburn_Wood_Stove_p/obo2301.htm

We want a stove because we love having fires and we want to offset some of our propane costs. Oh - and just a heads up, I know what seasoned wood is and how important it is - and yes I own a moisture meter. Figured I’d get that out of the way first. I also understand that heating the upstairs might be a challenge - that's ok. We really want a fire in the basement!

Some quick info… House is a large ranch with an open stairwell to the basement. The basement steps are 20’ from the base of the hearth. The house was built out of Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF), so insulation is really good. I actually like the fact that an Outside Air Kit can be added to the 2300. Just in case we need it down the road. I’ve attached a floor plan for reference. I’ve also attached a few pics of the hearth, one showing a card board “drawing” I used to help visualize the stove in the space.

Our hearth measures: 35” wide x 34” h x 45” d (back wall to hearth edge).

The 2300 measures: 25.75” w x 33” h x 34.875 d (ash lip tp intake piece)

I wanted to post in the forum again really just to make sure I’m not forgetting or overlooking anything. I’ve always gotten great feedback on the forum, so basically looking for more before finally pulling the trigger. I’d like to know if you think the prices I’m finding are good/bad. I am getting a purchase and install price from a local company next week - so will let you know what they say.

Stove alone is listed at $1,849 on the Osburn site. Does that price sound about right?

I called Osborn customer service - mainly because I was just curious how helpful they could be in case having to call in the future. The guy I talked to seemed like he knew what he was talking about and helpful. *One thing - I asked if he knew what a block off plate was. He said yes, but suggested stuffing Roxul into the opening instead. I still plan on going with the block off plate - but curious if stuffing Roxul is a viable option? Any thoughts?

On the Osborn site, there is an option to purchase a Thermodisc. Is that worth buying? It says that it’ll turn the blower off when the stove gets cold.

The site has the blower included with the stove purchase, however we don’t have an outlet within 8’ of the stove. Do you think I should buy the heat powered stove fan for $120?

Obviously, we're going with an insulated liner - any suggestions on where to get the best deal? It's about 22' from the top of the chimney to the base hearth surface.

Any other purchase suggestions out there?

I've included a pic of the stove (going all black). I’ve also included the stove specs.

I really appreciate any and all suggestions/feedback!

Thanks in advance!

 

[begreen]

Looks like a tight fit. How tall and how wide is the fireplace opening? Are you sure there will be room enough to install and to operate the bypass control on the side?

Get the blower. You will want it. Most blower assemblies include a snap-disk thermostat on them. Check with Osburn support to see if this is built in to the blower assembly. Add an extension cord or have an outlet placed near the fireplace. You will want to have the blower to move air out of the fireplace.

Roxul by itself will allow some air to pass. You'll want the blockoff plate under the Roxul to make a better seal and to keep insulation fibers out of the room.

Woodmans parts plus and Rockford sell some good liners.

 

[double-d]

The $1849 is MSP pricing Everyone has to advertise that price, call around and see what they will really sell it for, most will discount that price.

 

[BsFire]

Looks like a tight fit. How tall and how wide is the fireplace opening? Are you sure there will be room enough to install and to operate the bypass control on the side?

Get the blower. You will want it. Most blower assemblies include a snap-disk thermostat on them. Check with Osburn support to see if this is built in to the blower assembly. Add an extension cord or have an outlet placed near the fireplace. You will want to have the blower to move air out of the fireplace.

Roxul by itself will allow some air to pass. You'll want the blockoff plate under the Roxul to make a better seal and to keep insulation fibers out of the room.

Woodmans parts plus and Rockford sell some good liners.

The fireplace opening measures: 35” wide x 34” h x 45” d (back wall to hearth edge).
and...
The 2300 measures: 25.75” w x 33” h x 34.875 d (ash lip to intake piece)

Check out the attached pic of the specs. Is this the bypass valve (circled in red)? If so, that puts the max width of the stove at 25.75". With the stove centered, that'll leave about 4.5" of free space on each side. I'd assume that's enough - but will check with customer service on that to be sure. The top of the stove itself will be at 30 5/8" high, leaving just over 3" of free space above the stove. The max height of 33" listed on the stove spec measures from the legs to top of (what looks to be) the heat shield in the back. That'll be tight with only 1" of free space, but I figure that's ok since it's just the piece in the back. Also - there is no existing damper in the fireplace. The hearth was built for a freestanding stove - just FYI.

Given all of these measurements, do you think we're good? I've attached a pic showing the cardboard replica straight on - in case that helps.

Thanks for the advice - all sounds good to me!

 

[BsFire]

The $1849 is MSP pricing Everyone has to advertise that price, call around and see what they will really sell it for, most will discount that price.

Got it! Will do - thanks!!

 

[begreen]

It will be at tight fit and a challenge to connect to a liner. The little protrusion for the bypass is where the bypass handle attaches. The handle sticks out another 3-4". You might consider a different stove with either a front bypass handle or no bypass.


If one motivation is to lower the price have you thought about an Englander 30NC? It has no bypass, it's half the price and at 30" tall there will be a bit more room for connecting the liner. The 30NC has a good and long track record.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Hey all - it's been a while, but we've finally made a decision. So, we’ve decided on putting a wood stove in the basement. We’re going with the Osborn 2300 stove on legs.

https://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/Osburn_2300_Osburn_Stove_Osburn_Wood_Stove_p/obo2301.htm

We want a stove because we love having fires and we want to offset some of our propane costs. Oh - and just a heads up, I know what seasoned wood is and how important it is - and yes I own a moisture meter. Figured I’d get that out of the way first. I also understand that heating the upstairs might be a challenge - that's ok. We really want a fire in the basement!

Some quick info… House is a large ranch with an open stairwell to the basement. The basement steps are 20’ from the base of the hearth. The house was built out of Insulated Concrete Forms (ICF), so insulation is really good. I actually like the fact that an Outside Air Kit can be added to the 2300. Just in case we need it down the road. I’ve attached a floor plan for reference. I’ve also attached a few pics of the hearth, one showing a card board “drawing” I used to help visualize the stove in the space.

Our hearth measures: 35” wide x 34” h x 45” d (back wall to hearth edge).

The 2300 measures: 25.75” w x 33” h x 34.875 d (ash lip tp intake piece)

I wanted to post in the forum again really just to make sure I’m not forgetting or overlooking anything. I’ve always gotten great feedback on the forum, so basically looking for more before finally pulling the trigger. I’d like to know if you think the prices I’m finding are good/bad. I am getting a purchase and install price from a local company next week - so will let you know what they say.

Stove alone is listed at $1,849 on the Osburn site. Does that price sound about right?

I called Osborn customer service - mainly because I was just curious how helpful they could be in case having to call in the future. The guy I talked to seemed like he knew what he was talking about and helpful. *One thing - I asked if he knew what a block off plate was. He said yes, but suggested stuffing Roxul into the opening instead. I still plan on going with the block off plate - but curious if stuffing Roxul is a viable option? Any thoughts?

On the Osborn site, there is an option to purchase a Thermodisc. Is that worth buying? It says that it’ll turn the blower off when the stove gets cold.

The site has the blower included with the stove purchase, however we don’t have an outlet within 8’ of the stove. Do you think I should buy the heat powered stove fan for $120?

Obviously, we're going with an insulated liner - any suggestions on where to get the best deal? It's about 22' from the top of the chimney to the base hearth surface.

Any other purchase suggestions out there?

I've included a pic of the stove (going all black). I’ve also included the stove specs.

I really appreciate any and all suggestions/feedback!

Thanks in advance!

View attachment 222695 View attachment 222696 View attachment 222697 View attachment 222698

Do yourself a favor and get the right tool for the situation. They make an insert with exactly the same firebox that will slide right in, comes with exactly the right setup. Only downside I see is a little more money. You really don't want to monkey around trying to reach your hand into the back to adjust the air, assuming you don't break the knob off trying to get it in. Also, hooking the liner up will be a nightmare. I've included a link to your better option. No charge!

https://www.myfireplaceproducts.com/ProductDetails.aspx?ProdID=OB02401&Lang=EN

 

[BsFire]

And... this is exactly why I wanted to post before finalizing the purchase. Thanks for the info!

I find it odd they don't include the bypass handle itself in the specs - especially since they show and include the other handles. I read the info in the manual. To open/close the bypass the handle is rotated - not pulled out, so there's a chance it'll fit. Looks like it is only used to to get the fire started. From the manual: "The bypass damper should be closed as soon as there is a fire going inside the firebox and smoke is moving upward through the exhaust system." So, I wouldn't need to mess reaching back in there when the stove is up at really hot temps. I'm going to triple check measurements and see what the installer has to say.

My better half is also a part of the stove decision. She really likes the 2300. I have read and found that the Englander is a good stove, we just really like the looks of the 2300. Cost is factor, but we're good with the 2300 price. We'd like to stay close to 2k on the stove price. The Englander is 30" is tall and the 2300 is only 5/8" more than that. I also ask the installer about his thoughts on connecting the liner given the small space.

My overall thought is to rely on the installer for fitting and connecting. I'll be sure to share all of these concerns with them!

I like the 2400 insert (and I'm not totally against going that route), but we were really wanting to go with a stove.

Here's a few reasons why decided on the stove...

• The insert has to have power to run when the stove does not. We want to be able to heat the basement if the power goes out.
• I like the cook top option on the stove.
• I believe that if we were to go with the 2400 insert, we would need to add tile on the floor due to the increased combustible area (would need to double check that).
• North/south loading on the stove is a plus.
• Outside air kit option on the stove (tightly insulated ICF home)
• 2300 is listed at $2,199 and the 2400 insert is at $2,499

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, or add anything I might not be thinking of.

Thanks again for the help!

 

[begreen]

You're going to want a blower with a stove in this tight space. Both the 2300 and the 30NC have hot stove tops that can be cooked on and can load N/S.

I'm curious about how the OAK will be supplied and connected.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

And... this is exactly why I wanted to post before finalizing the purchase. Thanks for the info!

I find it odd they don't include the bypass handle itself in the specs - especially since they show and include the other handles. I read the info in the manual. To open/close the bypass the handle is rotated - not pulled out, so there's a chance it'll fit. Looks like it is only used to to get the fire started. From the manual: "The bypass damper should be closed as soon as there is a fire going inside the firebox and smoke is moving upward through the exhaust system." So, I wouldn't need to mess reaching back in there when the stove is up at really hot temps. I'm going to triple check measurements and see what the installer has to say.

My better half is also a part of the stove decision. She really likes the 2300. I have read and found that the Englander is a good stove, we just really like the looks of the 2300. Cost is factor, but we're good with the 2300 price. We'd like to stay close to 2k on the stove price. The Englander is 30" is tall and the 2300 is only 5/8" more than that. I also ask the installer about his thoughts on connecting the liner given the small space.

My overall thought is to rely on the installer for fitting and connecting. I'll be sure to share all of these concerns with them!

I like the 2400 insert (and I'm not totally against going that route), but we were really wanting to go with a stove.

Here's a few reasons why decided on the stove...

• The insert has to have power to run when the stove does not. We want to be able to heat the basement if the power goes out.
• I like the cook top option on the stove.
• I believe that if we were to go with the 2400 insert, we would need to add tile on the floor due to the increased combustible area (would need to double check that).
• North/south loading on the stove is a plus.
• Outside air kit option on the stove (tightly insulated ICF home)
• 2300 is listed at $2,199 and the 2400 insert is at $2,499

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, or add anything I might not be thinking of.

Thanks again for the help!

I really like the 2300, too. It's a sharp heater.

If you weren't gonna try to shoehorn it into your fireplace, or, they didn't make the same heater designed as an insert, I'd have just said, congratulations.

I predict three outcomes if you proceed with the 2300:

First, the installer will damage the bypass lever getting it in, or you'll discover how dangerous and impractical it is to thread your hand WAY back between raging hot steel stove and the fireplace wall EVERY time you reload the stove;

Second, you'll find that the close clearances prevent the installation of a block off plate, and be very disappointed by the heat output of the stove as you discover you lose too much up the open chimney;

Third, you'll find that there is not enough stovetop sticks out to put a pan on to cook anything.

Just because I like to keep lists to three, I'll mention the blower situation as a stand alone. Whether you have the stand alone or the insert, you will need a blower to move the heat out. The insert is specifically designed for this, the stand alone is not. Don't worry about the outlet distance. You can get an extension cord.

And, finally, good luck with hooking the stand alone stove up to the chimney liner. They do make a piece to overcome that, so I won't belabor that issue.

 

[begreen]

Outside air kit option on the stove (tightly insulated ICF home)

This has me wondering how well does the chimney draft now as a fireplace? Is there an outside air source already feeding the fireplace?

Third, you'll find that there is not enough stovetop sticks out to put a pan on to cook anything.

I had the same thought.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

And... this is exactly why I wanted to post before finalizing the purchase. Thanks for the info!

I find it odd they don't include the bypass handle itself in the specs - especially since they show and include the other handles. I read the info in the manual. To open/close the bypass the handle is rotated - not pulled out, so there's a chance it'll fit. Looks like it is only used to to get the fire started. From the manual: "The bypass damper should be closed as soon as there is a fire going inside the firebox and smoke is moving upward through the exhaust system." So, I wouldn't need to mess reaching back in there when the stove is up at really hot temps. I'm going to triple check measurements and see what the installer has to say.

My better half is also a part of the stove decision. She really likes the 2300. I have read and found that the Englander is a good stove, we just really like the looks of the 2300. Cost is factor, but we're good with the 2300 price. We'd like to stay close to 2k on the stove price. The Englander is 30" is tall and the 2300 is only 5/8" more than that. I also ask the installer about his thoughts on connecting the liner given the small space.

My overall thought is to rely on the installer for fitting and connecting. I'll be sure to share all of these concerns with them!

I like the 2400 insert (and I'm not totally against going that route), but we were really wanting to go with a stove.

Here's a few reasons why decided on the stove...

• The insert has to have power to run when the stove does not. We want to be able to heat the basement if the power goes out.
• I like the cook top option on the stove.
• I believe that if we were to go with the 2400 insert, we would need to add tile on the floor due to the increased combustible area (would need to double check that).
• North/south loading on the stove is a plus.
• Outside air kit option on the stove (tightly insulated ICF home)
• 2300 is listed at $2,199 and the 2400 insert is at $2,499

Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, or add anything I might not be thinking of.

Thanks again for the help!

Believe it or not, I forgot a couple of points!

If you refer to a previous link of mine, the 2400 insert is listed at $2000 and change, with free delivery.

Second, the firebox is the same on the 2300 and 2400. N/S loading exactly the same in both.

 

[BsFire]

This has me wondering how well does the chimney draft now as a fireplace? Is there an outside air source already feeding the fireplace?

I had the same thought.

Good to know the 2400 is also north/south loading - thanks!

I only liked the outside air kit option, just in case we would need to run one in the future. My original thought would be to cut a whole through the chimney and run it if absolutely necessary. Our current fireplace on the main floor drafts REALLY well, so the air kit probably won't be needed.

The cooking option was just kind of an added plus - not really a big factor.

 

[BsFire]

Believe it or not, I forgot a couple of points!

If you refer to a previous link of mine, the 2400 insert is listed at $2000 and change, with free delivery.

Second, the firebox is the same on the 2300 and 2400. N/S loading exactly the same in both.

Ok - cool! Thanks!

 

[BsFire]

I really like the 2300, too. It's a sharp heater.

If you weren't gonna try to shoehorn it into your fireplace, or, they didn't make the same heater designed as an insert, I'd have just said, congratulations.

I predict three outcomes if you proceed with the 2300:

First, the installer will damage the bypass lever getting it in, or you'll discover how dangerous and impractical it is to thread your hand WAY back between raging hot steel stove and the fireplace wall EVERY time you reload the stove;

Second, you'll find that the close clearances prevent the installation of a block off plate, and be very disappointed by the heat output of the stove as you discover you lose too much up the open chimney;

Third, you'll find that there is not enough stovetop sticks out to put a pan on to cook anything.

Just because I like to keep lists to three, I'll mention the blower situation as a stand alone. Whether you have the stand alone or the insert, you will need a blower to move the heat out. The insert is specifically designed for this, the stand alone is not. Don't worry about the outlet distance. You can get an extension cord.

And, finally, good luck with hooking the stand alone stove up to the chimney liner. They do make a piece to overcome that, so I won't belabor that issue.

All great points! I appreciate it!

For grins, I threw together another "replica". The stone actually curves out towards the top of the fireplace opening. So there's really about 6" of space between the side of the stove and the stone. I added a fake 4" piece to the "replica" to represent the bypass handle. I can reach it fairly easily. I wouldn't necessarily be threading through too tight of a space. I wonder if the handle can be screwed on after the stove is in place - so that it doesn't get damaged during install?

More importantly, the close clearance preventing a bock of plate install, could definitely be a deal breaker! The space between the top of the stove and the stone is just over 3". I'm curious, what is a comfortable amount of space/distance between the stove and and stone to install the liner and block off plate? Would 5" be enough? More? Also - wouldn't the block off plate not get installed prior to the stove install? I guess what I'm wondering, is if the liner is ran to and through the block off plate... as long the liner can be reached through the opening it would then just need screwed to the stove - correct? I've never done this before - so bare with me.

Good call on the cooking - not a big deal anyway. And thanks for the heads up on the power supply. We can make that work.

Thanks again!

 

[BsFire]

And... after all this, I found the deal breaker! The stove won't work. The opening in the top of the stove sits back 16" from the front of the stove. That's not far enough to get the pipe/liner connected. The flue opening is set back further - there'd be no way to connect the liner to the stove with only a few inches of free space on top.

Might be going with the 2400, but the search ultimately continues...

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

Ok - cool! Thanks!

Bs- Thanks for sharing your deliberation process, it is pretty exciting to get a stove.

I understand having a thought in mind, like the one you have about the 2400. I was set on doing exactly the same thing, even got to the point where I bought the stove. It's sitting out in the barn to this day.

I discovered pretty quickly that an insert made so much more sense, as the air control on my stove was in the exact location as the 2400, and the stove top was rendered useless as a cook top because it was back in the fireplace.

Even though I already had the stove, I ordered an insert. It looks exactly like the stove version, without legs. It installed easily because of the extra clearance at the top, and plenty of room for the block off plate. The purpose built blower works just as it's supposed to, the cord runs about 8' to the nearest outlet.

I share this story to let you know that I am not opining theoretically, but actually did exactly what you are thinking about, and sharing my experience. My lesson cost me, I hope it can save someone else the frustration and money.

Good luck as you proceed!

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

And... after all this, I found the deal breaker! The stove won't work. The opening in the top of the stove sits back 16" from the front of the stove. That's not far enough to get the pipe/liner connector. The flue opening is set back further.

Might be going with the 2400, but the search ultimately continues...

I wondered about this. It was the hardest part of my install. Smart to have checked it.

 

[Easy Livin’ 3000]

All great points! I appreciate it!

For grins, I threw together another "replica". The stone actually curves out towards the top of the fireplace opening. So there's really about 6" of space between the side of the stove and the stone. I added a fake 4" piece to the "replica" to represent the bypass handle. I can reach it fairly easily. I wouldn't necessarily be threading through too tight of a space. I wonder if the handle can be screwed on after the stove is in place - so that it doesn't get damaged during install?

More importantly, the close clearance preventing a bock of plate install, could definitely be a deal breaker! The space between the top of the stove and the stone is just over 3". I'm curious, what is a comfortable amount of space/distance between the stove and and stone to install the liner and block off plate? Would 5" be enough? More? Also - wouldn't the block off plate not get installed prior to the stove install? I guess what I'm wondering, is if the liner is ran to and through the block off plate... as long the liner can be reached through the opening it would then just need screwed to the stove - correct? I've never done this before - so bare with me.

Good call on the cooking - not a big deal anyway. And thanks for the heads up on the power supply. We can make that work.

Thanks again!

I had 6.5" from stove top to the lintle. It was not enough space to work in, barely able to get the liner attached. 3" would require you use a special appliance connector that allows you to reach in through the front of the stove and attach it from the inside. I'd recommend one of those anyway based on my unpleasant experience.

Best case scenario, the block-off plate is installed before the stove goes in. I couldn't figure out how to do it, but I'm sure it could be done.

 

[BsFire]

Bs- Thanks for sharing your deliberation process, it is pretty exciting to get a stove.

I understand having a thought in mind, like the one you have about the 2400. I was set on doing exactly the same thing, even got to the point where I bought the stove. It's sitting out in the barn to this day.

I discovered pretty quickly that an insert made so much more sense, as the air control on my stove was in the exact location as the 2400, and the stove top was rendered useless as a cook top because it was back in the fireplace.

Even though I already had the stove, I ordered an insert. It looks exactly like the stove version, without legs. It installed easily because of the extra clearance at the top, and plenty of room for the block off plate. The purpose built blower works just as it's supposed to, the cord runs about 8' to the nearest outlet.

I share this story to let you know that I am not opining theoretically, but actually did exactly what you are thinking about, and sharing my experience. My lesson cost me, I hope it can save someone else the frustration and money.

Good luck as you proceed!

Again - just another reason why I love this forum! Great insight from someone that's been there - thanks!

 

[BsFire]

I'm sure this has been discussed - so if there's another thread worth linking me to, please do...

Can someone provide a list of comparable inserts to the Osburn 2400 – specifically in firebox size and in the $2,000 and under range?

Thanks again!

 

[begreen]

Call around for pricing on the Regency i3100.

 

[BsFire]

Call around for pricing on the Regency i3100.

Will do!

 

[BsFire]

Quick update... the dealer came out today. He's going to get back to us with costs on purchase and install for the Osburn 2300 insert.

*A couple things. Of course he said the block off plate wasn't needed, but I told him I was still going to do it. Our flue is actually offset to the right. So plan it to have the hole in the BOP off to the right just under the flue opening. The installer said they would run the liner through the hole in the BOP and connect the liner to a 45 degree elbow, that would connect to the top of the insert. Does that all sound about right?

Also - since we're still going to use our fireplace on the main floor, I brought up the fact that we'll need to extend the pipe out of the top of the chimney to prevent any smoke from downdrafting back into the house. He suggested extending the clay flue. That was kind of odd to me. Wouldn't it be easier to just install a stainless extension pipe of some kind? I'm sure someone on here has done this. Any pics out there?

Thanks again!

 

[begreen]

https://www.rockfordchimneysupply.com/chimney-flue-extender.php
https://extendaflue.com