Finally got around to installing a baffle

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Feeling the Heat
Dec 23, 2010
370
NW
Finally put a baffle into the Baby Bear. Took all of about 10 minutes to cut and install from a piece of 3/8" X 10" steel plate I had left over from a project.

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This is a nice, easy mod to make. You can see the secondary burn that occurs under the plate. It's much easier to control the heat output from the stove now. It also definitely moved the heat output to the lower front top of stove. The back now stays waaaaayyyyy cooler which is perfect for my application. Smoke output is definitely down. Mind you, it's not EPA stove clean by any means but definitely improved.

Main benefits I like:

1) Way better heat output control. The wood burns better with less air and the plate helps shield the the top, back and rear sides of the raised portion of the stove from the coal bed. Instead the heat seems to be held down near the fuel which makes it burn cleaner.

2) Heat output changed to the front. My stove is running tight clearances and moving the heat away from the back and back sides seems to be providing better comfort. There is more radiant heat felt on the front and less heat (a lot less) coming off the back.
 
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Welcome another Baby Bear to the 21st century!

That thick and flat is going to absorb a ton of heat from flame tips. If you need more heat in the chimney and feel the burn is slow, shim it up in the front to prevent so much heat dissipating from flame tips into baffle and increase velocity through fire box and up stack. This brings more air into stove. When you go too far it may chuff rapidly from outgassing with too much heat too fast. Then you know where to set it.

Strange having a simmer burner on the back of the stove huh?
 
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Is there any benefit to placing bricks on top of the baffle?

I'm thinking I'll place a couple along the back under the baffle.

Also, as an aside, are there bricks on the market that have better refractive qualities? (Think space shuttle tiles) I would think you get an even better burn with a more reflective lining material.
 
A few have made a baffle with a rack for firebrick. Some new stoves use a blanket above plate or thin non-combustible fiber board baffle. Don’t know of anyone who took test temperatures between steel plate and different or added materials.
 
A baffle sounds great! I have a Grandma Bear and have been burning for seven years. Would love to make more efficient. Would the idea be to add a 10" plate in the back supported by sides and a back plate beneath it? How far beneath the escape hole/ceiling should I place the baffle?
 
A baffle sounds great! I have a Grandma Bear and have been burning for seven years. Would love to make more efficient. Would the idea be to add a 10" plate in the back supported by sides and a back plate beneath it? How far beneath the escape hole/ceiling should I place the baffle?
What diameter chimney and pipe?
 
The original opening is for 8" pipe but the hole in the chimney was 6" so I put a reducer on top of the stove from 8" to 6" double walled pipe. The chinmey has a flu that looks to be 9" interior square flu...
 

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Thanks, yes we are using it. Have probably burned a half dozen fires so far. It drafts pretty well though I have had better. Do you think a baffle is possible?
 
Kind of difficult to predict what will actually work. I would probably use it like it is to get a feel for working it. Also the weather has a tremendous effect on draft. This mild weather isn’t exactly a test of draft. I would fit a baffle now, remove it but not use it. Then use the stove in really cold weather. Then after a while you get use to operating it. Then put in the baffle to see if there is a difference.
Just my opinion
 
Thanks a ton! That makes great sense and yes, winter is not here yet. We are in the Washington foothills and it can get pretty cold. Any sketches on how to keep the baffle up in the air above the bricks etc.? Thanks again for all your help...