So we're in the process of getting a wood stove installed, but I've quickly realized how little I knew and what the process entails. We have an 1800 sq ft two story house in Central KY with about 700 sq feet that was a log cabin built in the 1800's, and was added on to. Needless to say, that portion of the house is poorly insulated, (which we're trying to address also) and wintertime in the house is no fun. The home has an existing interior masonry chimney (30-35 ft), which we had inspected and we would be installing a hybrid pre-insulated 6" SS liner. The stove would be going into the first floor living room which is in the center of the house, but also one of the original log rooms of the house and poorly insulated. The living room is 250 sq ft, but fairly closed off and not an open floor plan. When we bought the house we put in mini splits, with multiple units located on each end of the house, but quickly realized they weren't sufficient to heat the entire house. The hope would be that the stove would help heat the majority of the downstairs, roughly 1100 sq ft. I had located a Fisher mama bear, but I feel like that may put out too much heat in the room and make it unbearable, in addition to taking up too large of a footprint. I'll more than likely need rear vent stove, given the pre-existing configuration and fireplace dimensions, and have realized those options are much more limited. At this point I feel stuck and was hoping to get some suggestions of feedback from anyone with a similar situation, thanks all! I've posted a photo where the stove would be going and the fireplace opening is 25"Wx31"Hx11"D.
Finding the right stove
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Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
I think several of the Woodstock stoves, either their classic catalytic soapstone models or their newer plate-steel hybrids, would rear-vent into that lintel height. Their soapstone cat stoves have a long track record and are reliable, well-engineered stoves...lotta cast iron in those babies. 😏 Their newer hybrids (cat and secondary burn) have been out for several years now, so there are reports by users as to how those are performing.
Your current hearth may have any needed floor protection already built in, if there's concrete beneath the tile. OTOH, some stoves require no floor r-value protection, just ember protection which can be provided by a piece of sheet metal or layer of tile.
If you want to go non-cat, rear-vent options are limited. I think Jotul has some, as well as a couple other makers whose names escape me at the moment.
As far as roasting in the stove room, the key is to move dense, cool air from the area where you need heat, back toward the stove room. People think first of moving hot air, but moving the heavier cool air toward the bottom of the stove room doorway actually works much better. Do this with a small 8" desk fan or two, on low speed so as not to disrupt the natural convection loop that is already trying to move heat out of the stove room through the top of the doorway.
"we would be installing a hybrid pre-insulated 6" SS liner"
I haven't heard of a hybrid liner..what is that?
Your current hearth may have any needed floor protection already built in, if there's concrete beneath the tile. OTOH, some stoves require no floor r-value protection, just ember protection which can be provided by a piece of sheet metal or layer of tile.
If you want to go non-cat, rear-vent options are limited. I think Jotul has some, as well as a couple other makers whose names escape me at the moment.
As far as roasting in the stove room, the key is to move dense, cool air from the area where you need heat, back toward the stove room. People think first of moving hot air, but moving the heavier cool air toward the bottom of the stove room doorway actually works much better. Do this with a small 8" desk fan or two, on low speed so as not to disrupt the natural convection loop that is already trying to move heat out of the stove room through the top of the doorway.
"we would be installing a hybrid pre-insulated 6" SS liner"
I haven't heard of a hybrid liner..what is that?
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Thanks for the reply, little off scale, but this is the general layout. The downstairs bedroom, living room and dining room are very drafty.
Thank you, definitely limited options for the rear vent, and availability is scarce right now for sure. Olympia makes a hybrid liner, with a “smooth wall” on the inside, medium weight liner.
Would an MF Fire Nova work in that spot?Hello from Irvine Ky. I had a Nova 2 installed in my fireplace with dimensional constraints as well. Barnhill Chimney in Lex did mine.
Hope you're staying warm! I looked at the Nova's and love the way they look, but not crazy about the fixed air control. How do you like yours so far?
It is fairly new to me, but I like it. I feel like the wood needs to be solid on the moisture front for it to work the best. The stove runs well in a 400-550 sort of zone on the stovetop temp gauge. Mine is set in a stone heavy spot so it acts as a thermal sink and temp seems very even because of this. It is not my main source of heat, but as cold as it is today it is keeping 1400 square foot warm easily. Glass view with burn pattern is fantastic imho.
Hmmm, the floor plan isn’t the best for wood heating and the room is small. The log cabin part and stonework will buffer heat to some extent with thermal mass. I think my main worry would be chimney height and too much draft with that much interior chimney.
Do you have a preference for cat or non cat?
I’d stick to a smaller
Do you have a preference for cat or non cat?
I’d stick to a smaller
For sure, the layout is a challenge for sure, and I'm definitely curious and unsure of what size/type of stove would function the best with the chimney height and set up. Definitely leaning towards non-cat, and and would prefer something with at least a 2 cft fire box, butI've quickly realized the options are limited
I was hoping to find a used stove in good condition for under a $1000, but if a new one is necessary would like to stay under $2500. I had found a mama bear, but as I stated, wondering if it would be too much stove for the space. I definitely want as much heat output as possible, so that's definitely the biggest priority. Would love to find something that would sustain overnight burns, and aesthetics is at the bottom of the list for sure.
Fitting woodstoves into fireplaces can be hard when attaching the liner. You may need to look at inserts.
But 2 I found that would fit are the Drolet Spark and PE Vista. I'm sure there's more. The biggest issue I found was the height. Many stoves are 30" tall.
I did not read the manuals, or know the specifics of your install. Before buying one, read the manual to make sure it'd work!
But 2 I found that would fit are the Drolet Spark and PE Vista. I'm sure there's more. The biggest issue I found was the height. Many stoves are 30" tall.
I did not read the manuals, or know the specifics of your install. Before buying one, read the manual to make sure it'd work!
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
I would get a stove that heats air (one with a convective jacket and blower,) then use a small fan like I described, on low, outside the stove room doorway, slowly moving cool air into the stove room and displacing warm air out the top of the doorway. You want that fan on low so it doesn't disrupt the natural convection loop already happening through the doorway. This will keep it comfortable in the stove room at sitting level.
I'd go ahead and take the plunge now on a new stove. That way you can get the unit best suited to what you're trying to do, and you don't have the worry about whether a used stove has been abused. Yes, it's an expenditure up front, but over the years you'll find that it was money well spent.
I'd opt for a free-standing stove, rear-vented. That way, you may find that you are often able to run the stove without the blower in the milder weather we often have at our latitude. An insert will pretty much require that you run the blower all the time.
If you can, try to either hear a blower run at the dealer on a model you are looking at, or ask on the forum how loud the blower is on the stove you're interested in. The Pacific Energy and Lopi blowers for example are very quiet...but they don't rear-vent.
I don't think much will fit in the fireplace which is only 11" deep.
Now, you could go top-vent stove, giving many more model options, then tap into the chimney at 90* several feet above the stove. Rear-vent gives you a cleaner look, of course..
No, I wasn't running the stove with that chunk of Bodark wood under there. 😏 I just it there for the time being when I was bringing in wood.
Speaking of wood, have you got a supply of dry wood, split and stacked for a couple years with the wind blowing through? If not, and you have a woodlot, go find small dead trees 8" or less, with the bark gone or at least falling off, and it should be dry enough to burn with good heat output and minimal deposits in the liner.
I'd go ahead and take the plunge now on a new stove. That way you can get the unit best suited to what you're trying to do, and you don't have the worry about whether a used stove has been abused. Yes, it's an expenditure up front, but over the years you'll find that it was money well spent.
I'd opt for a free-standing stove, rear-vented. That way, you may find that you are often able to run the stove without the blower in the milder weather we often have at our latitude. An insert will pretty much require that you run the blower all the time.
If you can, try to either hear a blower run at the dealer on a model you are looking at, or ask on the forum how loud the blower is on the stove you're interested in. The Pacific Energy and Lopi blowers for example are very quiet...but they don't rear-vent.
I don't think much will fit in the fireplace which is only 11" deep.
Now, you could go top-vent stove, giving many more model options, then tap into the chimney at 90* several feet above the stove. Rear-vent gives you a cleaner look, of course..
No, I wasn't running the stove with that chunk of Bodark wood under there. 😏 I just it there for the time being when I was bringing in wood.
Speaking of wood, have you got a supply of dry wood, split and stacked for a couple years with the wind blowing through? If not, and you have a woodlot, go find small dead trees 8" or less, with the bark gone or at least falling off, and it should be dry enough to burn with good heat output and minimal deposits in the liner.
Thanks so much for the feedback, was really hoping to find one that didn’t have to set in the fireplace and could set out a bit, and maximize the heat output. Does Pacific offer any rear vent options? Seems like the market shrinks up quickly with that option
Vg3200p
Minister of Fire
My only advice from experience in a poorly insulated house is buy the biggest stove you can. You can always build a smaller fire in a bigger stove but you can't build a bigger fire in a smaller stove. We went to small and it doesnt keep up with our house and now we need to buy a bigger stove
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
Yep, not many plate-steel stoves rear-vent. Like I said, Jotul I think, and a couple others. If you go to the "Wood Stoves by Manufacturer" link at the top of the Hearth Room topic page, you can go to the websites of those brands to find out if they offer rear-vent models.
Pacific Energy has only top-vent stoves. The reason I convinced my SIL to get the PE T5 was because of the simple construction..very few moving parts and low number of maintenance items. It is gorgeous with the cast iron enamel jacket, but pricey. A friend of mine recently put in the smaller, cheaper PE model, a Vista at 1.6 c.f. with sheet metal jacket instead of cast iron. I'm just starting to get reports from him on how it is doing in his <1000 s.f. house. Sounds small, but is leaky beyond belief and has 9' ceilings. He's tightening up the air leaks but that takes time and money.
We also have a log cabin, so I can relate to your challenges with heat loss; There's no way to insulate unless you tear off the interior wall treatment and install foam board. I also have leaks at the corner log joints which allow cold air between the logs and wall treatment, pulling a lot of heat out of the house. Stove could only keep it at 65 in this recent windy cold snap...luckily my wife was baking cookies so we got supplemental oven heat. 😏
I’m definitely wanting to go with a freestanding rear vent like you mentioned, finding an option in my price range is another matter, ha! What do you have there?
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
That's the Woodstock Keystone in my signature. The Fireview I had vented at the same height into my lintel height of 28.75", and put out more heat, but had no grated ash-handling, and the small window. They are pricey stoves now, however.
As I said, you can top-vent up a few feet, then tap into the chimney above that. This would allow for a key damper or two in the connector pipe to tame a strong draft on the 30' chimney if needed. I think the Vista my friend got was about $2200 or so.
I got the T5 for my SIL from the dealer in Lousiville, but they were a shady operation. They probably have the stoves there to look at though, if the place in Lexington doesn't.
As I said, you can top-vent up a few feet, then tap into the chimney above that. This would allow for a key damper or two in the connector pipe to tame a strong draft on the 30' chimney if needed. I think the Vista my friend got was about $2200 or so.
I got the T5 for my SIL from the dealer in Lousiville, but they were a shady operation. They probably have the stoves there to look at though, if the place in Lexington doesn't.
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
All the Woodstocks are cats or hybrids, and don't have convective jackets and blowers. You'll be able to heat more air faster, then move it around, with a jacketed stove with blower.
Is there a hallway in the center of the house, running parallel to the stairs, or just the doors we see? Are those doors standard width, like 30 or 36", or are they wider?
Is there a hallway in the center of the house, running parallel to the stairs, or just the doors we see? Are those doors standard width, like 30 or 36", or are they wider?
Instead of a freestanding stove, consider an insert. If necessary, to make it fit the shallow fireplace it could be run without a surround.
I would not be afraid of putting in a 2 to 2.5 cu ft insert. It takes a lot of heat to keep the log cabin side warm. You can burn smaller fires during milder weather.
For a budget insert consider the Drolet Escape 1500i.
For a budget freestanders, look at the True North TN20. It's 2 cu ft and has a nice square firebox. There's also the Drolet Spark II. It's a basic 1.55 cu ft stove, with N/S loading and lists for under $1000. The regular Drolet Escape 1500 might just squeak in - measure twice.
I would not be afraid of putting in a 2 to 2.5 cu ft insert. It takes a lot of heat to keep the log cabin side warm. You can burn smaller fires during milder weather.
For a budget insert consider the Drolet Escape 1500i.
For a budget freestanders, look at the True North TN20. It's 2 cu ft and has a nice square firebox. There's also the Drolet Spark II. It's a basic 1.55 cu ft stove, with N/S loading and lists for under $1000. The regular Drolet Escape 1500 might just squeak in - measure twice.
I really like the look and simplicity of the TN20, just curious how much heat you think would be lost up the chimney, where it would have to set back in the fireplace a bit?
There must be a block-off plate at the damper area to minimize heat up the chimney. A blower on the stove will help a lot in this situation.
I had meant to add that installing one may be difficult given the way the chimney was built. Is the block-plate strictly an efficiency/heat gain or is needed in regards to safety too? Thank you for all the information, it’s super helpful
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