fireplace problem

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ckaminski74

New Member
Oct 17, 2010
10
delaware
Well ty for having a forum that seems to be well very active and i hope you all can help me with a problem.

I had(have) a 36” heatalator NG fireplace that was a direct vent model.

I have since did a addition to my home that used the wall of the vent.

I would like to replace my fireplace and was going to use a vent-free BUT after a lot of reading i dont think so.

I can NOT vent threw the roof. I was hoping i could find a fireplace that would vent horizontal out a side wall. I have seen some modles vent using a PVC pipe.

I dont have a lot of room to vent as i have maybe a 12” spacing between the joists in the ceiling.

PLEASE help with suggestions to once again make use of my fireplace without going ventless…

TY
chris
 
Which Heatilator model do you have?
Does it have top-vent capability?
Do you still have the owner's/install manual?
If so, check the acceptable vent configurations.
There is generally a ratio between the horizontal
& vertical venting configuration & there will be
charts & diagrams in the manual telling you if
you can make the fire place you have work or not.
 
it is a top vent FP. used to have like a 8" vent pipe.

my problem is i was told it needs to be min 3" clearance on that pipe for heat.
since i only have a 12" space the clearances wouldn't be there.

I MAY have the manual still i will look.

exhaust is about 12' total withe 1 90 deg elbow

IF i could use that FP still
 
You will need the serial number to determine if your local hearth shop can STILL get the approved venting.
HHT redesigned their DV pipe in recent years & it may not connect to your unit.
They made an adapter to allow the new DVP to attach to older fire places, but I don't know if it's still available...
I believe the clearance to that pipe was 3" on TOP & 1" to the sides, & your manual should confirm that.
If that's correct, your vertical run will clear the 12" width easily (8+1+1=10)
You didn't say what SIZE your joist are & that depth is where you may have to be creative...
I doubt that you have 12" depth on your joists, probably 7-1/2 or 9-1/2.
You'll have to fur out the bottom of the joists, & you may have see if a heat shield ABOVE the pipe will be needed.
If a rise in the horizontal run is needed, you may have to fur out the joists more.
If this horizontal run is in a room where the furring will be blatantly obvious,
sometimes a well designed soffit will disguise any irregularities...
HTH
 
You've got an older model & that venting may not be available.
You may have to call your local Heatilator dealer to find out.
They DID make a VP to DVP adapter (DVP-AD1) so that you can
put the DVP vent on your unit, but again, you may hafta contact a
dealer to see if the part is still available.
If you look at Fig 14 on page 11, you will see that you can run
horizontally up to 25 feet off the top of the unit with a minimum
rise of two feet. I'd go higher, but that's me.
Anyway, if you can get the adapter or find some old venting in
somebody's warehouse, I'd say you're good to go.
 
I am VERY handy should i do the venting myself or should i pay someone to do it for me. I do not know how the venting pipe connect to one another. i dont think it would be hard to do myself bt i want to be sure.
 
ok per my local hearth shop.

adapter, 5 foot rise, 7 foot horizontal run elbow and venting kit 480$

for them to install it all and make my FP useable 275$

they told me the NEW piping is 6" diam not the old 8"

are these prices inline?

i would have to make a little sofit area for the pipe to have enuff clearance and that shouldnt be a big deal...
 
good stuff i feel a little more comfortable already knowing they are in line...

i have to get someone over to help build the sofit for them to put the vent through

i would REALLY like to get this done said roughly a week to get the parts 2-3 weeks to actually install.

gives me time to make the sofit..


ty all for your help...
 
The new pipe should be 8" OD and an inner pipe of 6" (DVP Pipe)

If they think they are going to adapt that old unit to the SLP 6-5/8" OD pipe they are idiots.

You need 12" of space MIN to get the DVP pipe through, you probably have 11-7/8" floor joists, which unfortunaly is 1/8" too small. And the $100 question is.... does the 1/8" matter, yes it does. You would not belive how many people (builders and customers) try to tell me that the 1/8" doesn't matter to them, it will be fine. Yeah, well if thier house burns down, it will be my ass and my companies ass, so do it right or don't do it all is the answer they get.

Also, if you are making the soffit now, make sure its open enough so they can get 4ft sections of solid pipe in there. Maybe leave the bottom studs off until the pipe is in there.
 
well what i am thinking is opening up the drywall in that area. letting them put pipe in and then building the sofit around it. reason being it is only like a 4' section that needs to be built.

he didn't say 100% sure the pipe is 6" he said i believe it is 6" diam, but either way it will work if i put up a sofit around it.

have to say TY you all have been VERY helpful. Its great to get good help when u need it. I hopefully will be using my fireplace again this year.


ty
chris
 
Ok good luck, and what I said about the SLP pipe... MAKE SURE they DO NOT adapt it to SLP pipe. There is an adaptor out there, it is only for new models and they have to be tested to use it and the smaller diameter pipe. You should have nothing smaller than 8" OD pipe on that fireplace.
 
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