FireplaceX review and woes

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Webby - 25' liner.

Dmitry - When I fire it up from cold with the door open to get it going, the whistle starts in when I close the door. This is when there are big flames roaring up the opening. As I close the air down, the flames action decreases and so does the sound. For whatever that's worth.
I'd try to seal it with gasket rope, it worked for me.
 
I would start with redoing the stovetop connection like I outlined. The furnace cement doesn’t do anything laying on the surface. Getting that adaptor sitting down tight is the place to start.
 
With that all sealed up, then the whistle comes from the hole that the bypass rod passes through... it’s not really common though.
 
FWIW- Dean's Stove &Spa told me that the whistle sound comes from the hole that the bypass rod passes through near the top of the insert. I had the notched liner connector, and could see it glow red sometimes (by looking thru that bypass rod hole)
 
FWIW- Dean's Stove &Spa told me that the whistle sound comes from the hole that the bypass rod passes through near the top of the insert. I had the notched liner connector, and could see it glow red sometimes (by looking thru that bypass rod hole)


This makes sense but I swear there wasn't much, if any whistle, that I noticed for the first 6 weeks when the stove worked great. Right around the time that I noticed a whistle, stove performance changed. After the "re-seal" the whistle was definitely absent for a day. It could be I'm not picking up on it all the time too, I suppose.
 
Update: Dealer has decided to remove the furnace cement and replace it with a fiberglass gasket. After talking with other dealers he decided the SS collar expands and contracts enough that it ends up cracking the cement (as you've pointed out Dmitry). The guy has been in business awhile so I'm not sure how this was new info unless its the hybrid model.

Also not sure what a fiberglass gasket will look like but I have doubts about its ability to seal things up unless its like your gasket rope Dmitry and uses some kind of compound to hold. Seems like this stove needs a really airtight pathway though I don't know enough about other inserts to say whether or not its exceptional.

The manufacturer stipulates cement which doesn't exactly do wonders for my confidence in the product.

I'll post again when its up and running with the new gasket, this week or next.
 
This is a bit of an old string but I thought I'd follow up on it. Covid hit right after my last post and eveything got dropped, then summer arrived.

The dealer made it back out last month but instead of removing the cement and reseating the eveythingwith fiber glass rope/gasket, he just stuffed it up from underneath where there was enough of a gap (first pic - underneath). Because its seated at an angle there's a decent gap on one side and none on the other. Presumably the cement is sealing it on top there, but I have my doubts. We had some cold nights (upper thirties) and a handful of fires showed the stotve running the same, that is, harder start, uneven burn and lower heat output. That black wire is where I was poking around from the top to see if there were any weak spots.

So I'm definitely feeling like I'm getting the run around here. Dealer wants to come out when its colder to run a fire and evaluate, but of course it burns and puts out heat, so I'm not sure what he's hoping to accomplish. I'm moving toward pulling it and reseating with a gasket material myself, but they've made such a mess with the cement - even spreading it at the top seam where the liner meets the adpater (second pic - side) - that I'm not sure it'll go back right. Probably need a new adpater at least. If I do light into it I'll post here or on a new thread. Words of advice/encouragement welcome.
 

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Listen to Webby. Listen to Webby. Listen to Webby. Did I mention listen to Webby? Your not getting the runaround you got a chit installation with a chitty repair. Adapter needs to sit flush like all fittings that are designed to go in evenly. Once fitting is in evenly then furnace cement can be applied properly to an even surface. I'm not advocating this but if adapter sits flush and snug cement isn't needed all the times. Again go by manual for cement applications for your setup.
 
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