bluedogz
Minister of Fire
My wood is above the firebrick, but a couple of inches below the tubes.
Makes me feel better... my overnight loads so far have been stuffed to the gills, with toothpicks in all the cracks.
My wood is above the firebrick, but a couple of inches below the tubes.
That's the trouble with heat loss, poor insulation, and drafts. You need to completely over do it in order to have the whole house heated properly.The room temps you talk about blow my mind! I couldn't imagine having a 90* room, even an 80* room seems to be in crazy land! My wife would take the keys to the stove away from me if I did that.
I recently realized that I was cutting the air back too quickly on the 30. I would still hit 650 but cutting the air back too early really cut down on the amount of heat the stove was throwing and would drop the temps more quickly. Which probably explained some of the smoke I was getting earlier.
I'm still hitting 650-750, but the temps stay there longer, and the entire stove has higher temps. I realized this when I posted the "92 degrees" thread. Oddly enough this has not changed my burn times. The overall increase in stove temps (primarily the sides) really changes how the area warms up.
Previously, the room it was in would hit a degree or two above 80 degrees. Now, with the overall stove temps higher and maintaining higher temps longer, the room easily hits 90.
Obviously 90 isn't needed, nor wanted. But, when the outside temps drop, having the area hit 90 for the over night burn allows the stove to maintain warmer room temps for far longer.
As an example, this morning I woke up to outside temps of about 20 degrees, which is about normal for winter temps around here (usually mid-teens to low 20s for winter lows are the norm). The room the 30 is in was still 80 degrees 8.5 hours into the burn with a ton of coals. I racked the coals forward into a big mound and I did a partial load (about 50% full)of the stove this morning at 7:30 am. I cut the air back more slowly and got the stove up to temp properly. The room got well above 80 (about 88) and 9.5 hours later the room is still sitting at 78 degrees with a bunch of coals and a stove top of 230-250.
Highs today have not gotten above 33. So, again, the high and low temps today are a pretty good indicator of a typical winter day in my area even in January.
This is obviously a massive difference from the Vigilant and also a huge difference from the Heritage. The 30 also holds coals better than the Defiant and Encore (but, the Defiant and Encore hold higher temps for a much longer period of time).
Not yet, but I am aware of it. I check the baffle during each reload to check for a gap. If there is, I slide the baffle over from left to right to close the gap. This summer I will rig it like others have.If you are hitting 650 or above with this stove, 90 degree room temps are indeed possible. I was traveling last week and phoned home and one of my boys let it slip the basement where my 30-NCH is housed got the temperature to 92 degrees! I have also found this stove to be a VERY clean burner. The hot temps, active secondaries and hot exhaust gasses going up the chimney seem to keep the creosote at a minimum. Have you tried tightening-up the baffles in the top of the stove? Mine had a gap in them and I put a steel rod on the left hand side - inside a piece of rope gasket and now ALL of the stove gasses have to pass over the boards before going up the chimney - no easy path between the boards for some heat to escape. I think others have done this too.
I've been doing both as I have been playing with the stove. The N/S load allowed me to figure out that I was cutting the air back too soon on the E/W loads. This has increased the heat output while maintaining my longer burns on E/W loads.We are also burning E/W this year and are having better burn times with a bit lower heat output vs N/S - which is OK with me in our set-up as the stove can blast out some crazy heat and wood consumption is not as great. E/W also makes it harder for the rest of my family to pack the stove full - every square inch as they could N/S and this saves wood too.
To go back to this post, I felt the same way until I got the right size stoves for my needs. Now, the 30 and Defiant can sit at lower temps and still provide usable heat.Sounds similar to mine. My problem is that one stove at 250 ain't gonna heat the home. On cold days I need to maintain the stove at 500+.
I think Jags needs to break down and buy himself a BK King.
If they just didn't make it look like a fat cartoon opera singer...
And 6" pipe.
How tall is the chimney? I say get over the looks and ride the chubby one with the 6" pipe.If they just didn't make it look like a fat cartoon opera singer...
And 6" pipe.
The same thing happens in my 13NC when "raking forward" for the night time load and setting a good sized round or split on the ash/bricks and not on coals. I usually try to time that at about 9:30PM and then I have 1/2 hour to dial her down before bedtime.
Then in the morning, I find a chunk of charred wood in the back of the stove................sometimes with enough hot stuff to get a morning fire lit from. Not always, but sometimes. Sometimes I wish I had gotten the 30NC! I love this little 13 though.
You might try to keep the air open a little more. As if your not getting as complete a burn your loosing Btu's of heat that could have been in the house heating it.
Dorkweed, How long burn times do you get with that NC-13?
Happens with me and E/W burns in the 30 also. In fact it pretty much happens with N/S also. Large chunks in the back. That is a long way for air to travel.
Usually about 5 hours is average for the box elder and ash I'm burning now. That 5 hour average has the stove less than 300 degrees. It's been fairly mild winter, so I haven't been going 24/7 all the time. Had one night this past week that got down into the teens, so I loaded her up with 3 year old oak at 9:30PM and had a lot of coals in the morning at 7:00AM to get another load going without a super cedar.
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