First Time Poster & Pellet Owner

[Steve_P]

Hi Forum,
Great community we have here - really cool to read over the material and seeing people learn about their stoves.

I live in South Eastern, MA - and recently moved into a new home last fall. Oil furnace with no gas available in the area. The previous owner had a small propane stove hooked up in the kitchen, to an add-on external chimney. Needless to say I spent around 3500$ last year on heating my 2300sf house, and since propane is very expensive where I am, I wanted to look into wood, specifically pellets so my wife can handle easily when I am away.

So I researched and scanned the want adds for a pellet stove. Found a 1994 Whitfield Adv (dont know the model, pics below), for 450$. Took it home, took it apart, cleaned out 3 dead birds - two behind the ash trap baffle, and one in te actual exhaust blower.

Hooked it up where the older gas stove was, into the chimney (4" alum liner + clay lined), and fired it up. I love it. The blower is awesome and the heat feels great. It is going to be a great stove and we hope it will save us alot on our heating this winter.

Few questions:
What model do I actually have? I looked up the WH number (81689), but still couldnt be convinved of the exact model.
What should I do to it before the full use season? I only pre-ordered 3 tons of pellets (the all hardwood, premium).
Anything else I need to know/prep for with this stove?

Thanks everyone

 

[alternativeheat]

I hope that you didn't buy aluminum gas vent ? You need at least L or PL rated vent pipe, of the galvanized, black or stainless steel double wall pellet vent variety inside the house mounted through an insulating thimble to the outside.. Be careful ! I can't tell from your photos what vent you bought.

 

[tsmith]

Check out this link, http://woodheatstoves.com/whitfield-pellet-stove-parts-c-95.html there is a video telling you how to identify your stove. and the different whitfield models

 

[Steve_P]

I hope that you didn't buy aluminum gas vent ? You need at least L or PL rated vent pipe, of the galvanized, black or stainless steel double wall pellet vent variety inside the house mounted through an insulating thimble to the outside.. Be careful ! I can't tell from your photos what vent you bought.

Thank for the link.

Yea sorry about the lack of carity on that. I did use the PL rated pipe (stuff is expensive) from the stove to the thimble into the chimney liner. Once past the thimble, it goes to a 3x4 expander to the liner.

 

[Steve_P]

So new development - I just receive my delivery of 3 tons of hardwood premium pellets. They look and burn fantastic, but I have now noticed that the machine does not stay on by itself for more then +/- 30min. I

I first thought it was burning too low or too high and triggering the auto shut-off. But after timing the event with a clock a few times, keeping a close eye on it, and putting the settings and damper in the middle, I think somthing is wrong with the temp sensor's either in the unit or at the exhaust.

Ideas? Would like to fix this myself.

Much thanks!

 

[oliveone]

Here are a few links I had from my whit days. Also a tech PDF think this will help you lots.

The Low Limit switch can fail either in the “OPEN” or “CLOSED” position. Both failures have distinctive indications of failure.

♦ An “OPEN” failure is indicated by the inability of the stove to run longer than 30 min. The control board timer completes its cycle but the Low Limit switch fails to close when hot gases go undetected through the Combustion Blower housing exhaust. The stove restarts with the push of the START touch pad but shuts down again after 30 min.

♦ A “CLOSED” failure is indicated by the continuous fan operation after the stove’s fire has gone out and the stove is cool. By removing the power cord from the wall all fans stop but immediately start when the stove is plugged back in.

Both failures require the replacement of the switch.

***** Let us know how you make out. ********

http://www.hearthtools.com/parts/lowlimit.htm

(broken link removed to http://woodheatstoves.com/whitfield-pellet-stove-parts-advantage-ii-pellet-stove-c-95_254.html?page=3&sort=20a)

 

[oliveone]

Steve any update ??

 

[Steve_P]

This is certainly an "open" switch failure.

But without doing anything I can get it to run all day/night but only on the medium heat output setting (3) or above. If I try and run it on heat setting 1 or 2, the unit will shut-down itself after about 30min. So I am not sure if I should replace the

I would like to be able to run it lower to save pellets at night (I dont need my kitchen @ 75deg all night), I am torn......

 

[Steve_P]

after starting it up onsetting 3, I can back it down to 2 and leave the damper open a little more and it will run on 2 all night long. Is it still the sensor or maybe just the lowest setting 1 is just too low to run?

Really dont want to spend ~100$ on the sensor for nothing, and since the days are getting colder, I dont think I mind it being on 2-3 full time anymore.

 

[Bioburner]

If this is what I call the proof of fire snap switch, it may just need to be cleaned well. Remove and brush well or with a scotch brite pad till it's nice and shiny. Amazing at how a bit of ash and or carbon can insulate that switch.
Good luck, that switch is not that expensive.

 

[oliveone]

clean the stove real good! Follow Biobuner advance.

 

[Steve_P]

So I cleaned up the switch and all is well. I am buring around 50-60lbs a day with very little ash build up and loving the heat! Thanks all.

 

[apandori]

I'm going to have to find a project stove for next summer to put in the poorly insulated upstairs area we don't use all winter. This seems like it was fun to fix up!

 

[Steve_P]

Looking back it was really a fun project. Espcially when my dad would come over and help take it apart and back together again. Now he always asks how the stove is going when I see him. Too funny...

We have already saved aroun 500-600$ this year compared to last year with just oil heat, and I have problably another 2.5-2.25 tons left to go from 3 total. Plus the house is warmer by far.

What abou pipes in the basement and cold spots in th walls? Should I be worries about them freezing in the deep winter since the stove heat might not get to them like it does in the living areas?

My plumber (uncle) said to run the heat (hot water baseboards from oil boiler) every now and then during really cold spell just to keep those pipes from freezing up some.

 

[apandori]

I wouldn't think you'd need to if the rooms are all in the 60s, but I'm not a plumber either.

 

[oliveone]

If you have pipes on outside wall and room are not warm you could freeze the pipes. When it is very cold like below 20 degrees I run the oil heat for about 5-8 mins before bed. I have a raised ranch and have had a pipe freeze a few times.

 

[bogieb]

If you have pipes on outside wall and room are not warm you could freeze the pipes. When it is very cold like below 20 degrees I run the oil heat for about 5-8 mins before bed. I have a raised ranch and have had a pipe freeze a few times.

What he said - and what I do.

 

[Chrisnow86]

If you don't wanna use oil heat at all you could always drain the system I didn't that a few years ago

 

[bogieb]

If you don't wanna use oil heat at all you could always drain the system I didn't that a few years ago

Only problem is going on vacation or even leaving for one night, then the house would get really cold. Cats would be okeay, the bird - not so much

 

[Steve_P]

So needing help again....the past week or so the air room blower has been going off here and there. Comming back on after 10-15min, sometimes longer. All the while, the stove is still running fine.

I suspect it was getting too hot and shutting down, only to kick back on when it cooled some. So lastnight it took it all apart and gave it a really good cleaning. Re-installed it and same issue.

Any thought? Would like to try and fix it myself, and fast considering the REALLY cold weather thats up in the Northeast region right now.

Thanks for any help!

 

[Steve_P]

Shameless bump because desperation.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Does that blower have oil ports on it?

If so and you haven't oiled it .... well you can guess.

The motor makers plate should say what to use if it has to be oiled.

 

[Steve_P]

Hmm don't know how to tell if it needs to be or not. Will have to open it up again and check the blower.

Edit. Just checked the Manuel and nothing is mentioned about oiling the blower. I am thinking its a sensor that's the issue because it sounds like its running great when I have the stove on low heat setting.

Edit 2. The Manuel says the room air blower is perm lubed by the manufactured. The exhaust blower needs bi-annual lube. So I will def do that, but that won't effect the room blower would it?

 

[Bioburner]

Because the stove is so old you may not have a original fan motor. The motor itself may be thermally protected and with it working hard against some worn stiff bearings its shutting down. Risk of getting a used stove is inheriting a problem or two or just age affecting things. When it gets light out I will look at the room blower but I think they are fairly cheap from several sources.

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

Hmm don't know how to tell if it needs to be or not. Will have to open it up again and check the blower.

Edit. Just checked the Manuel and nothing is mentioned about oiling the blower. I am thinking its a sensor that's the issue because it sounds like its running great when I have the stove on low heat setting.

Edit 2. The Manuel says the room air blower is perm lubed by the manufactured. The exhaust blower needs bi-annual lube. So I will def do that, but that won't effect the room blower would it?

Forget the damn manual, the motor makers plate on the motor of that blower rules everything else drools.

As Bioburner correctly points out it may not be OEM in that department or even the other one for that matter.

Blowers frequently get replaced. Even replacements from the stove maker have been known to change.