Fiser insert

[warburtonplayer]

A friend has a fisher insert installed into a brick fireplace, the insert does not have a damper on the flue of the stove. When it was installed he had stainless pipe from the top of the chimney to the top of the stove and the damper had to come out to make it fit. Now it is really hard to regulate the heat it seems to burn hot when ever the stove is running. Is there a way to build a baffle that would help out?

 

[warburtonplayer]

Also when the doors are closed and the dampers on the doors are closed tight it is still drafting through the doors.

 

[coaly]

Make sure the back of doors are clean with wire wheel in drill. The raised portion and back of door makes contact in 3 places all the way around. The center of door seal web and edges of channel iron must touch. Also clean the door seal which is the channel iron welded to front. Make sure the hinge pins or hinge pin plates are not worn making the seal loose. Pins should be greased with high temp grease or anti-seize to prevent wear, the same as air intake damper threads.

Here is a baffle drawing for an Insert. Make the space the exhaust travels through equal to the square inch size of chimney flue. Make a cardboard template first until you get the size and angle correct to know the size you need. Moving the brick it sets on forward and back adjusts height. If you're afraid of locking side support bricks down with baffle, short pieces of 1 1/2 angle iron can be bolted or welded to plate sides to hold bricks against side walls.

 

[warburtonplayer]

Does the insert require the damper in the flue to properly work?

 

[coaly]

Depends on chimney and using with open doors in Fireplace Mode.

The flue damper is a chimney control on any system used for an over drafting chimney. Since this was designed to use the original larger fireplace flue, which is no longer acceptable practice, this was used to slow rising exhaust out of insert. With an insulated liner, more damper can be used since less heat is required in the chimney. A larger masonry flue would need more heat, be left open more, and checked frequently to see how much creosote is being formed. Open damper more accordingly if excess is being formed. Using a blower removes heat from the vent connector area lowering flue temp as well. Adding a baffle reduces damper use.

With fire established and spark screen in place, slowly close damper until smoke rolls in at top of doors. Open until smoke evacuates, retaining as much heat as possible. This becomes the only control in Fireplace Mode. They are not considered a radiant heater in Fireplace Mode.

 

[warburtonplayer]

Yes it is a masonry chimney and the draft is great but it drafts so hard it burns hot even with the front closed off. Like I said it does not have a damper in the pipe and was thinking of adding a piece of eight inch pipe inside the stove with a damper in and just manually open and close it. Maybe weld a piece of 8 inch pipe inside the stove with a damper in it.

 

[bholler]

Yes it is a masonry chimney and the draft is great but it drafts so hard it burns hot even with the front closed off. Like I said it does not have a damper in the pipe and was thinking of adding a piece of eight inch pipe inside the stove with a damper in and just manually open and close it. Maybe weld a piece of 8 inch pipe inside the stove with a damper in it.

No you should not put pipe inside the stove or weld anything to the stove. How tall is your chimney? What size clay is in it?

 

[warburtonplayer]

two story brick

 

[bholler]

two story brick

Then yes a damper will probably help. But the doors aren't sealing properly either.