Fisher vent and internal metal slab questions

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Soso

New Member
Nov 30, 2020
3
Oregon
I'm having problems with my Fisher Honey Bear stove.
I'm using seasoned wood, but fires seem to go out easily, sometimes can be smoky in the stove.
I'm concerned it is not drafting well, yet everything is fine with the flue, chimney and no significant creosote buildup.
So, I am concerned about 2 spots. First, the slit right inside the door (pictured) where I can see the vent rod going in and out has a lot of ash that I can't suck out with a vaccuum. Is that a problem? Is it blocking my air intake? If so, how to clean?
Second, there is the baffle plate (pictured) that sits on some supports between the burning area of the stove and the flue. I assume it originally was flat and it is warped. Question is, is it better to replace this with the curve going up (sits closer to the flue and maybe impedes updraft?) or curve coming down in the middle (which would cut into the area where I can put wood).
Thank you.

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The slot must be clean. That is the intake which air flows through and up glass to keep glass clean. Use what ever it takes like a wire and vacuum, or sometimes I tape drinking straws to a vacuum tool to reach into crevices and slots. You should be able to see the opening under the stove where the slider closes the air intake to vacuum from that end as well. As wood pops and ash spills, a lot can accumulate there. The larger Goldilocks even has a trap door under it for clean out, and many times a year mine was full !

The baffle plate should be easy to remove and install when straight. They aren't very thick on a Honey Bear like the full size stoves that use 5/16 thick plate steel. They are under 1/4 inch, like 3/16. Simply remove it, put on flat surface, and with hearing protection beat it into submission until flat with a large hammer or sledge. Should be good as new.
 
of note, here is the underside of the stove near the vent. i don't see any air intake. is it normal that it is covered up by the pedestal?
 

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