I just installed a fisher wood burning stove. I was told not to install a damper it has an eight inch flue pipe but it seems i am burning up alot of wood very quickly. When it reaches high temps i close down the air intakes to control it. Any one have any thoughts.
fisher wood stove
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I have a Fisher also. I don't think I got through alot of wood, more than if I had a new one. How big is your stove and how big is your house?
How often do you put wood in it? And how much do you put in?
How often do you put wood in it? And how much do you put in?
The stove is 30 x30 i belaeve it is a grand pa, house is about 3000sf. As far as how often im putting wood in it is hard to say i just started using it and im not sure how much i should be and how hot i should be burnig. Im using the largesy size wood i can fit in the stove.
I had the stove that was a size smaller, the grandma bear. During the coldest weather of the year I would burn a face cord (1/3 of a full cord) of wood a week keeping my 2000 sq foot home between 64-74 degrees. In all, I'd go through about 5-6 full cord per winter.
You have a bigger stove and a bigger house, so you can do the math
I ran a stove pipe damper in my stove. Just remember that you really shouldn't close it all the way off, even though they do have holes built in them. I used to run mine at a 45 degree angle.
However, once I built a baffle plate for my stove, I no longer needed to use the pipe damper.
Here's what it looks like. Some people's stoves came with these in them already (not firebrick lined but rather a sheet of boiler plate) mine did not come w/ one and I could look right up the stove pipe
![[Hearth.com] fisher wood stove](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/img_1317-webp.211244/ "[Hearth.com] fisher wood stove")
pen
You have a bigger stove and a bigger house, so you can do the math
I ran a stove pipe damper in my stove. Just remember that you really shouldn't close it all the way off, even though they do have holes built in them. I used to run mine at a 45 degree angle.
However, once I built a baffle plate for my stove, I no longer needed to use the pipe damper.
Here's what it looks like. Some people's stoves came with these in them already (not firebrick lined but rather a sheet of boiler plate) mine did not come w/ one and I could look right up the stove pipe
pen
I do have a baffle in my stove but it bent up alittle from the heat. It was like that when i bought it. Would u recomend me installing one like u have.
Thanks for the info
Thanks for the info
Thanks for the compliment. It did work really well.
I'd say that even if your baffle is bent up fire fox, you are just fine. This is just what I came up with since I had nothing at all.
pen
I'd say that even if your baffle is bent up fire fox, you are just fine. This is just what I came up with since I had nothing at all.
pen
I like that baffle a lot!!
I like to run my grandma bear around 400-425 duing the day and most of the evening. She can burn through a full load in 4-5 hours. At night I damper down to about 300 and that will hold for about 7-8 hours. I'm up way before that though to get her filled up and blasting heat before everyone wakes up.
I like to run my grandma bear around 400-425 duing the day and most of the evening. She can burn through a full load in 4-5 hours. At night I damper down to about 300 and that will hold for about 7-8 hours. I'm up way before that though to get her filled up and blasting heat before everyone wakes up.
Pen did that baffle help you burn less wood? The inside of that stove looks like the inside of mine. I want to do something so the flames don't go
up the chimney.
up the chimney.
Didn't really help save a ton of wood but it did give me more heat per burn cycle (still could only go about 9 hours from coals, to raging inferno, back to coals)
It also made the stove about 20x more controllable. W/ just the pipe damper, the stack temps could really soar if it was cold and had an outstanding draft. Once I installed this, I never used the pipe damper again and never needed to.
Here's a link to the original post about this. There was a lot of thought that went into it's size.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/31420/
pen
It also made the stove about 20x more controllable. W/ just the pipe damper, the stack temps could really soar if it was cold and had an outstanding draft. Once I installed this, I never used the pipe damper again and never needed to.
Here's a link to the original post about this. There was a lot of thought that went into it's size.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/31420/
pen
fire fox said:
Check your door gasket. Chances are it needs to be replaced. Also, install a flue damper.
Bigg_Redd said:
The fisher stove's that came w/ cast iron doors don't have a gasket so I wouldn't suggest trying to replace it! I can't speak for the units w/ the glass doors, they may have had gasket.
pen
pen said:I had the stove that was a size smaller, the grandma bear. During the coldest weather of the year I would burn a face cord (1/3 of a full cord) of wood a week keeping my 2000 sq foot home between 64-74 degrees. In all, I'd go through about 5-6 full cord per winter.
You have a bigger stove and a bigger house, so you can do the math
I ran a stove pipe damper in my stove. Just remember that you really shouldn't close it all the way off, even though they do have holes built in them. I used to run mine at a 45 degree angle.
However, once I built a baffle plate for my stove, I no longer needed to use the pipe damper.
Here's what it looks like. Some people's stoves came with these in them already (not firebrick lined but rather a sheet of boiler plate) mine did not come w/ one and I could look right up the stove pipe
![[Hearth.com] fisher wood stove](https://www.hearth.com/talk/attachments/img_1317-webp.211269/ "[Hearth.com] fisher wood stove")
pen
thats a sweet baffle there!! do us a favor and install a 2dy air tube down the middle! ;-) I bet that thing would rip balls! someone needs to bring back that design w/ a 2ndary burner for epa spec... people up here love the old steel and firebrick fisher, old mill, nashua,all nighter stoves with solid doors and spin drafts... I got a nashua for sale, mayble I'll keep it instead, and install such a device.... either way, nice work on the baffle.
Here is a pic of the baffle with secondary air I made for my fisher Grandma Bear stove. I am not sure if it reduced the wood consumption but is does seem to produce a lot more heat. The stove top temps went up and the flue temps went down.
Then old fishers were great heaters but they would use a lot of wood compared to a modern EPA stove.
My stove never had a door gasket ( the stove was here when I bought the house), I did install one, when I did the baffle mod, not sure it made much difference as the doors fit pretty tight without a gasket. (You can see it in the pic)
Then old fishers were great heaters but they would use a lot of wood compared to a modern EPA stove.
My stove never had a door gasket ( the stove was here when I bought the house), I did install one, when I did the baffle mod, not sure it made much difference as the doors fit pretty tight without a gasket. (You can see it in the pic)
Attachments
![[Hearth.com] fisher wood stove](/talk/data/attachments/23/23024-eeaa2d7b368517075dfbdb7ec29387aa.jpg?hash=zyk7alG2cW)
![[Hearth.com] fisher wood stove](/talk/data/attachments/23/23025-c0810ac476b931a945b028e61833be4a.jpg?hash=9E0DvtZJbM)
fire fox, Pen's mods. were my inspiration. Follow his link, and on pg.2, you'll see a posting from glfporshe. Very complete photo gallery. I copied this design, but put my sec. air intakes on the rear sides of the box. Wes999 did a very nice job also. My mods. are a bit different, but I don't have a Fisher, mines a Timberline. IF you have the tools, this is not a hard project. Worthwhile?- definitly.
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