Fiskars X27 edge chipping frequently

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777funk

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Sep 12, 2014
126
MO
I just picked up an X27 and I have a pretty ragged edge (about as deep as steak knife serrations) after just one session. I'm splitting some Maple and Oak that's still fairly green (would prefer to wait longer but I'm in a hurry to get it in the kiln for this season since I just got a wood stove).

Is this normal? My old wedge also got a ragged edge fairly easily. But I'm having to grind back about 1/16" to 3/32" or so to get back to a straight edge.

It hit the dirt a few times but no rocks.
 
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I just picked up an X27 and I have a pretty ragged edge (about as deep as steak knife serrations) after just one session. I'm splitting some Maple and Oak that's still fairly green (would prefer to wait longer but I'm in a hurry to get it in the kiln for this season since I just got a wood stove).

Is this normal? My old wedge also got a ragged edge fairly easily. But I'm having to grind back about 1/16" to 3/32" or so to get back to a straight edge.

It hit the dirt a few times but no rocks.

You are "grinding" with an electric grinder to sharpen. If so that will/can create temperatures high enough to ruin the temper of an axe.Suggest you research how to properly sharpen an axe, as they are honed or if necessary filed by hand
 
I'm well aware the issues with heating tempered steels. I took it very easy and gave a single quick pass per side with the grinder to rough it out, checking as I went; it didn't even get warm. I also used the slow wet side of the grinder (water immersed stone). I refined this with a diamond stone from 200 to 600 grit then I usually use a Black (surgical) Oil stone to bring up the final edge.

But beyond my own sharpening, I'm talking about the initial edge (right out of the box) that chipped so it wasn't an issue of the temper being drawn out.

I called Fiscars and talked to a rep. She told me that it's ok if it's chipped and ragged (even the 1/16" gouges I mentioned), but something about that doesn't sit well with me. I like a smooth edge that shines like a mirror. I'm new to splitting firewood, so maybe this doesn't matter as much as I think it does.
 
I would be questioning the edge issues you describe with any new OOB axe too! Glad that sharpening was not the cause, but sounds like Fiskars owe you a new axe to me
 
I brought back a good edge and honed it to a shine. I also put a tire around my splitting stump (BIG help! Stops the axe after a split).

So this time dirt is out of the picture. I got a lot less edge damage this time. But I notice that after splitting a dead standing oak I recently cut down that the edge gets nicked pretty easy. I sharpen it until I see a razor edge and after a few splits, I can see flat spots where the edge has broken off. I've repeated with steeper angles which seems to have helped a little but still not great.

These must have a very hard temper. It holds it's edge very well but it's brittle and the edge can break off easily. Could be just this axe. I'm going to have Amazon send a replacement and see if it's any better. I am a little worried that the next will be from the same production lot and have the same issue. We'll see! Could be just the way these are.
 
I brought back a good edge and honed it to a shine. I also put a tire around my splitting stump (BIG help! Stops the axe after a split).

So this time dirt is out of the picture. I got a lot less edge damage this time. But I notice that after splitting a dead standing oak I recently cut down that the edge gets nicked pretty easy. I sharpen it until I see a razor edge and after a few splits, I can see flat spots where the edge has broken off. I've repeated with steeper angles which seems to have helped a little but still not great.

These must have a very hard temper. It holds it's edge very well but it's brittle and the edge can break off easily. Could be just this axe. I'm going to have Amazon send a replacement and see if it's any better. I am a little worried that the next will be from the same production lot and have the same issue. We'll see! Could be just the way these are.

Maybe the lot it came from didn't get tempered correctly as I have been very happy w/ mine. It holds an edge great and has needed very little sharpening, it has not chipped at all, though I am always sure to put it back in the sheath after use and in transport and try to make sure it never hits the ground.
 
Maybe the lot it came from didn't get tempered correctly as I have been very happy w/ mine. It holds an edge great and has needed very little sharpening, it has not chipped at all, though I am always sure to put it back in the sheath after use and in transport and try to make sure it never hits the ground.

Same here as far as sheath storage. The tire keeps it from the dirt, so I'm guessing the temper may not be quite right on this one. Anything that shows light when I look at the edge in the sun isn't sharp enough in my opinion. I'm definitely getting nicked blades with this one and with only wood contact. We'll see how the next one is.
 
Edge problems with Fiskars have been reported by many. My best guess is that their metallurgy is not the very best.

OTOH, mauls I have that were forged in Sweden and Austria, have edges that are like new, years later. Never needed sharpening. 'Nuff said, IMHO.
 
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I'll have to keep using it. I don't like an edge that reflects light (if you can call that an edge), but who knows, maybe the lack of edge in certain spots won't hurt anything and it'll still split ok. We'll see. I'm still learning this new tool and what it likes.
 
After about 8 cords of splitting with mine for the past two years it's still in pretty decent shape. Got lazy quite a few times and split on the ground with the axe ending up pretty deep. Still has a decent edge and only a couple of nicks in it. I'm very happy with mine. Hopefully you just got a bad one and the next will be fine.
 
Yeah, this doesn't sound right. I've split roughly 6-7 cords of various varietals of wood with my X27 and it has never exhibited what you describe. In fact, it rarely needs sharpening. Should it need a hone, I simply give it a few passes thru the cheap Fiskars sharpener and it's good to go.

What are you using as your chopping base? Could that be the culprit?
 
OP - You said "chipping." Do you mean actual chipping, or just dings on the edge? Dings on the edge = very common on all splitting axes. Chipping = virtually unheard of
 
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I run mine through the cheap Fiskars sharpener every 30 minutes or so and it keeps it sharp. I've never had nicks unless I hit dirt/rocks, and certainly never had the edge chip. Maybe mine was just forged on a good day.
 
"I also put a tire around my splitting stump (BIG help! Stops the axe after a split)."
I did the same thing, and the steel belting in the bead of the tire nicked/chipped the edge of my Fiskars. So now I no longer use the tire.
 
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