Fix for broken bolts holding manifold tube shield on 1900?

[ShaneMac]

I'm looking to clean out my 1900 for the coming winter and the bolts holding the tube shield in place look a mess to begin with. I have not removed the tube shield yet but I have recall seeing in the past that Obadiahs in the past has provided a work around fix for it? Does anyone happen to know what the fix was?

The stove has worked great the last two years and has done well to head the whole house with stove in the open concept basement with door removed to the upstairs. Added a cold air return on opposite side of the house which dumps the cold air from opposite side of the house down to the basement in a 4 foot chute.

If I was to look for a stove to replace it, what would you all recommend? Its a 3.0 cf fire box but I don't feel I ever used that as most of my wood is 16-18" so never took advantage of the entire fire box.

 

[ShaneMac]

Looking at it looks like the first bolt is already broken, second one is sticking out and the shield has already fallen blocking half of the secondaries on that section. Is the shield even needed considering the thickness of the manifold?

 

[ShaneMac]

1/4-20 x 3/8 sound right for replacements? Will order a bit and tap set and see if I can get the others out. Will heat them up with torch and see what happens.

 

[ShaneMac]

First two came out by hand, last one came out easy with wrench. First one looks like it was already tapped up a size but still stripped. The bream is rust swelling on the bottom and may have pushed the others out but not sure. I would have to hammer it to get it back up into place as is. Will try to file it back or pull out grinder so I can get it back up in place then deal with out to get it to stay attached. I can easily drill out the second hole and tap it a size up. Feel a heli coil would be a waste for the first one but tempted. As a FYI the bracket holds up the top baffle on each side.

 

[begreen]

You're making nice progress. It was a good heater and worth keeping running.

 

[ShaneMac]

And it gets worse, The top bar has a bit of a warp and I can't get the shield up high enough for the secondaries to be fully exposed. Was just looking at the gasket seal on the glass as I replaced the door seal last year figured I should do the glass this year and found two cracks on the corners.

 

[ShaneMac]

Photos for above.

 

[ShaneMac]

Forgot to mention found a big leak in glass gasket but that is an easy fix. Almost looks like enough suction it started to pull the gasket thru?

 

[begreen]

Could the leaky gasket have caused some of the issues? The cracks look like they can be welded.

 

[ShaneMac]

Could the leaky gasket have caused some of the issues? The cracks look like they can be welded.

Totally possible, I was struggling to tame it last year and would only ever run it on low. I even played with some magnetic sheets to block off portions of the primary and secondary air intake as well as blocking off the boost air. Never could really figure it out. I replaced the door gasket while trying to debug but didn't look at the glass on the door itself.

100% getting an auber alarm for next one.

 

[frederico265]

I have the 1450.

I had to replace the manifold shield bc it was warped causing a gap where the baffles sit. The 3 screws broke and I had to drill and tap them. Your shield should sit flush and those secondary air inlets should be visible.

I replaced the baffles, a few bricks, manifold shield, rear block retainer and both gaskets.

I also played with blocking the air intake. We start backing it down early to prevent over firing. I’ll also try to pack it tighter or use bigger splits.