Yes woody is absolutely right it is the install i have a problem with not the stove. While the stove is not as efficient or clean burning as new ones the stove itself is not a safety issue but a direct connect is. Direct connects if the clay liners are sized correctly and you can seal the stainless into the clay would be just fine. But generally the clay is much to large and there is no way to seal the stainless in them. They are also very difficult to clean properly and there for rarely get cleaned thoroughly which is another safety issue.
Fixing/Replacing Slammed Buck Stove Insert
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I spoke to a local company today to get a better idea of cost comparison. I was quoted around 2k to install an insulated 6 inch flue liner with boot and 8 in to 6 in adapter. That way I could upgrade down the road pretty easily. Additionally I was quoted around 5k for a new Buck Stove insert with the liner setup installed. That being the case I think I am just going to burn as-is this season for financial reasons. I will continue learning from these boards and make a well informed decision next year.
I want to again say thank you to everyone who offered insight, I've been given a lot to think about.
I want to again say thank you to everyone who offered insight, I've been given a lot to think about.
electrathon
Minister of Fire
This is why I recommended the install of a plate in the lower chimney and a boot installed directly to the stove. If you are able please consider the install, it is a big help with safety and is not a big cost. As to the liner being oversized, it is and it works. Direct connecting will just make it betters ham it is now. I had a slammed stove for a long time, connected to an unlined, hugely oversized chimney. The draft started easily and I only had back puffing when there was huge wind gusting ( like 50 mph plus). It still have that with my new stove with a lined chimney. I would still have the same stove if I could have installed a liner easily, my chimney was unlined, without question I had safety issues. I liked that stove, it worked great. Lit easier and produced more heat and faster heat than my new stove.
electrathon
Minister of Fire
I have to totally agree with this statement too. Not great like it is and would likely burn poorly with a choked down liner.
Noted; that being the case I will rule out just doing the flue without a new stove.
I hear you both loud and clear and I agree with the safety issue.
I will look into installing the plate/boot.
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fair enough i can see your point there i would rather see a dirct connect than a slammer. I would not go so far as to recommend it but i get your point now
mellow
Resident Stove Connoisseur
electrathon
Minister of Fire
There was an era that a lot of stoves were manufactured the way yours was. After a time there started to be issues with them. The worst issue was creosote build-up and the resulting fires. What was considered safe when they were made was later learned to be pushing the limits of safety. A new stove and stainless liner would be ideal, I totally realize the financial issues related to that.
To make yours more safe, you need to install a stainless plate at the bottom of the chimney at the clay liner. Cut an 8" hole in the center. It is likely that your damper was already pulled, if not remove it. You need need enough space for your 8" boot and possibly riser pipe to slip up into the hole. You may need to pull a few bricks out of the smoke shelf (the angled part at the back of the chimney). You need to make sure it all lines up to your stove once it is slid back into position, then connect the boot to the stove. You may need an offset coupler.
This is a doable job for someone with average handyman skills, but is not a job for a beginner.
Good luck and take your time figuring this out. The stove should sassily save you other bi
To make yours more safe, you need to install a stainless plate at the bottom of the chimney at the clay liner. Cut an 8" hole in the center. It is likely that your damper was already pulled, if not remove it. You need need enough space for your 8" boot and possibly riser pipe to slip up into the hole. You may need to pull a few bricks out of the smoke shelf (the angled part at the back of the chimney). You need to make sure it all lines up to your stove once it is slid back into position, then connect the boot to the stove. You may need an offset coupler.
This is a doable job for someone with average handyman skills, but is not a job for a beginner.
Good luck and take your time figuring this out. The stove should sassily save you other bi
Why install an 8" liner if it is most likely a temporary measure? That is poor economics. A stubbed install is going to be a bear to clean and that will entail disconnecting the stub and pulling the insert. Considering a properly installed new stove will burn less wood and need less liner cleaning the costs are closer than might first appear, especially if one DIYs the install. The cost difference over the life of the stove is pennies a day.
Per the feedback I have received I contact a certified chimney sweep. I will have him look at my setup, and if I cannot get it up to code I will not burn this year (a bummer, I was looking forward to it). Either way, I plan to get an upgraded stove next year and will make sure it is correctly installed. I certainly don't want to risk a chimney fire.
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