Fixing that corner

[vinny11950]

Ever since the pellet stove installers installed the pellet stove 3 years ago, I have been looking to fix the structure in the wall. There was a small Air Conditioner in that corner too (from the previous owner) that was not framed in properly and was sitting on the sheathing of the house.

On top of that I wanted to install a bigger 28,000 btu AC.

Here is a pic before the hole in the wall

Notice the smaller AC in the casing of an old in-wall case.


Below is the wall without sheetrock showing the minimal/non-existant framing. Basically the outside wall sheathing was holding up the AC. Water and wind were getting in as evidenced by the dirty insulation. Bottom hole is for the pellet vent.

The new AC weighs about 130 lbs. so I really went crazy with the frame, using Simpson strong ties all over the important joints.

Finally, a sad sight of the pellet stove out of action waiting for some maintenance and installed.

Any way, any advice on the framing setup would be greatly appreciated (before I close the hole).

The house is a small ranch built in 1972, 3/8 sheetrock, 2 x 4 studs, tar paper, and T1-11 sheathing. Also, I have been noticing the tar paper is putting out a very strong odor of tar and pine. Is this normal after 41 years?

 

[Frozen Canuck]

Ok, in pic 5 the plastic sheathed cable is too close to the wall surface , you will need to install a metal plate prior to VB & drywall to protect the wire from being pierced probably by a baseboard nail.

Only other thing I see is installing a stud(s) at what appears to be 16" O.C. under AC to the bottom, pic 3. Toe nailing with screws would be fine for these short studs. This is optional as the load is supported & would only be to provide rigidity to the drywall. Can you still get 3/8" drywall?

Oh & yes that is normal for the age of the paper, the paper is old enough that at least part of the formula was actual "pine tar". Weird what we did 4-5 decades ago.

Have fun, it looks like you have Sundays work lined up.

 

[vinny11950]

Thanks, Frozen Canuck. I was wondering why sometimes I would smell a slight hint of tar/pine.

I will take your advise on the studs and plate to protect the wire.

I don't think I need to support the Air Conditioner from the outside and will just let it hang on the frame.

 

[Frozen Canuck]

Yes that's fine like I said those studs would just be backing for the drywall. I doubt that anyone will be putting pressure on the wall behind the stove.

 

[Frozen Canuck]

Sorry forgot to ask, any joins in the sheathing in that area. If so do install a stud there to support that sheathing joint & prevent warping of same after you close it up.

 

[vinny11950]

no joints in the sheathing there. have to say, that t1-11 is still solid and tough up top. i had to put plenty of pressure and time on the sawzall to cut the opening larger.

closer to the ground, the water and elements have taken their toll.

i plan to start doing the sheathing and siding with new windows and doors next year. if i do it in sections, taking my time, i think i can DIY it. plus, i can tear out the tar paper.

 

[Frozen Canuck]

Sounds like a plan, you can re-evaluate the span in the AC area at that time & install studs from the exterior if you decide to. When mother nature surprises you we use house wrap as emergency tarps, bonus is that they can be used on the next section of wall when she let's up.

 

[vinny11950]

i was wondering how long cdx sheathing can be left exposed before have to cover with siding.

 

[Frozen Canuck]

I would cover asap with house wrap. It should only take you <5% of the time it takes to sheet the wall & then your ready for Ma Nature to rain on your new work without having to worry about leaks at the seams & into a dry wall cavity. One other heads up as I will assume that all interior spaces are finished, I suggest you use screws to attach the sheathing instead of nails, no point getting finished outside only to discover you have a few drywall cracks to finish inside now.