Flame Monaco overfire.......

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mjstef

Member
Oct 4, 2009
76
Northwoods of Wisconsin
So I've had this Monaco for about 2 months. When i am burning dry maple or oak the fireplace sometimes starts to run away. All i have for temp monitoring is a 2" on the door which is not accurate and a laser gun which agrees with another brand laser gun to shoot the area where i SHOULD have a thermometer. NOBODY makes anything 1 1/2" to mount on the stove itself and if i use a 2" where it would fit the temp is 100+ degrees less than the hottest part of the stove (which is 1 1/2") per the laser gun. Tonight the hottest part was 599* and rising. I was able to shove everything to the back and stuffed a frozen piece of wet maple in the front. This brought it back to around 550* in a couple minutes. My biggest concern is the EXTERNAL temp of my Selkirk Suretemp chimney. The fireplace got away from me last week and was north of 650*. I got it slowed down again and the EXTERIOR temp of the insulated chimney was right at 300* To me that is WAY to hot for the outside of a chimney! And YES, The draft is totally shut off when this happens. I am thinking of installing this to further control my air intake baring any other ideas. Any thoughts?? https://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/AC..._REGISTER_p/ac01347-4-air-intake-register.htm
 

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I can also say the colder it has gotten, the hotter the stove runs. 20' of 6" straight up and a 4" intake from under the deck that the chimney is built over. I'm going to look it over tomorrow and see if i can get the factory draft damper to close further......
 
So I've had this Monaco for about 2 months. When i am burning dry maple or oak the fireplace sometimes starts to run away. All i have for temp monitoring is a 2" on the door which is not accurate and a laser gun which agrees with another brand laser gun to shoot the area where i SHOULD have a thermometer. NOBODY makes anything 1 1/2" to mount on the stove itself and if i use a 2" where it would fit the temp is 100+ degrees less than the hottest part of the stove (which is 1 1/2") per the laser gun. Tonight the hottest part was 599* and rising. I was able to shove everything to the back and stuffed a frozen piece of wet maple in the front. This brought it back to around 550* in a couple minutes. My biggest concern is the EXTERNAL temp of my Selkirk Suretemp chimney. The fireplace got away from me last week and was north of 650*. I got it slowed down again and the EXTERIOR temp of the insulated chimney was right at 300* To me that is WAY to hot for the outside of a chimney! And YES, The draft is totally shut off when this happens. I am thinking of installing this to further control my air intake baring any other ideas. Any thoughts?? https://www.osburnwoodstoves.com/AC..._REGISTER_p/ac01347-4-air-intake-register.htm


All I can say is none of the temps that you are concerned about are alarming to me. I start to get concerned at 800+ F shy of that you should be fine.
 
All I can say is none of the temps that you are concerned about are alarming to me. I start to get concerned at 800+ F shy of that you should be fine.
The 300* exterior flue temp is what bothers me. That and the amount of wood this thing eats. We had an old drafty farmhouse when i was a kid with a Captain Hot woodstove piped into the furnace. Heated the whole house with it and it ran 450-500*. Actually asked my 71 yr old father tonight about temps. Difference was we could choke it down and keep the temps in that 450-500 range. This one i can't. Not sure where it would have went if i didn't get it slowed down.....
 
Where is that 300 deg. temp, near the stove top or higher up on the stove pipe? If you want to slow the burn, I think your money would be better spent on an additional stove pipe damper.
 
Where is that 300 deg. temp, near the stove top or higher up on the stove pipe? If you want to slow the burn, I think your money would be better spent on an additional stove pipe damper.

About 4' up where the chimney enters the chase. No way to do a stovepipe damper. This is a ZC fireplace with insulated pipe right to the connector on it.....
 
Have you checked your door gaskets? I knocked a hinge pin with the door (reinstalling after flue cleaning) on our stratford last year and fought runaways for few days before i found the leaky doors. I have not measured our pipe temps due to incased in chase until attic. Your reading on the glass will read high, ours runs hot on the glass as i believe stoves with glass do.
 
599 and rising sounds prime to me.


Not prime when the outside of the insulated flue is hitting 300*. In talking to SBI tech support this morning the gentleman feels that i have an over-draft issue especially since running temps are getting hotter the colder it gets outside. He suggested switching to inside air for combustion to see if it makes a difference. He also thought an Anti- Downdraft cap would equalize the draw better than the standard cap especially when it gets windy here. He told me that 500 - 550 is an ideal cruising temperature and agreed their was not a good place to take a reading on this fireplace. He said i COULD use a probe style thermometer in the collar on top of the stove where the warm air blows out to get a flue gas temp reading. Just have to drill the proper size hole and insert the probe. He thought the cracked baffle may have happened in shipping and i didn't notice it when i did the install. They are sending me a new one today.
 
I didn't realize this was a ZC fireplace. The outside of my double wall insulated pipe is 300 degrees at 4 " above my stove, and cools quickly after that. I have a PE Summit however, totally different beast. Agree with BenTN about checking the door gaskets, and any other source for additional combustion air.
 
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To clarify. The OP is talking about double wall chimney pipe right to the unit, not double wall stovepipe.

Sounds like the manufacturer is giving good advice/support.
 
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