Flashing Installation

[83glt]

Just a quick question here. I've searched here and can't find an exact answer given the many references to different manufacturer's and installation instructions. I have Selkirk's Sure Temp Class A and appropriate ceiling support kit. The kit comes with the correct flashing for my roof pitch. According to the instructions, it says that the "top and sides of flashing [go] under the roofing" and the "bottom of flashing [go] over roofing". Maybe a silly question, but by "sides" does that mean the entire side of the flashing should go under the roofing, with only the tail portion directly below the cone exposed? Or should the entire flashing below the cone, including out to the sides be exposed? Unfortunately there aren't any clear diagrams.

Also, regarding sealing the flashing, I've read several different opinions here. Many say no sealant is needed, some say it shouldn't be used, and others say it should. At the risk of beating a dead horse, is there a definitive answer here?

Thanks so much.

 

[DAKSY]

I always ran them up under the shingles so that the bottom of the cone was a little higher than the side shingles.
That's about where the hole thru the roof sheathing is & as long as the bottom edges of the shingles go below
that hole, it shouldn't leak.

 

[webby3650]

You will want to use silicone to seal the top side of the storm collar. If it's a lower pitch, I also like to run a bead of roofing cement around the back side of the flashing boot. To fill that little void between the shingles and the boot. Otherwise debris can get trapped there and cause a future leak.

 

[83glt]

So here's the scoop.

My town requires a building permit for a wood stove installation. The permit requires a County contractor number, Worker's Comp insurance, etc. etc. I wanted to just to the installation myself, but I didn't want problems with the town. So I hired our general contractor who happens to be a former firefighter. Great guy, I really like him and the work he does is typically exceptional. I don't think he has much experience with wood stove installation though as a number of things weren't quite right with the install. Not a big deal as he charged 1/3 the price of the wood stove dealer, and I can easily go back over what he did and make it right in a couple hours.

Anyway, the reason I asked about the flashing is I wasn't sure if how the contractor installed it is correct. I know I will be cutting back some of the shingle on the upper side of the cone and sealing the nailheads with silicone. But should I also reinsert the entire flashing one row of shingles higher than what's in the photos here? This is how the contractor left it. I'm actually glad he didn't silicone the storm collar because I'm going to have to pull the Class A anyway and move the support box about 3/4" to make sure all clearances are met. Is the positioning of the flashing here ok?

And what about sealing? Should I use some "Flashmate" from HD or something to seal underneath the flashing and along the top of the cone? Most of the youtube videos have some form of sealant being used. Also, I couldn't find any high temp silicone at HD for the storm collar. Where can I find that stuff. I absolutely HATE going to HD/Lowe's. What a waste of time. All they ever have is the "general purpose" stuff of everything. Drives me nuts!

/rant

 

[webby3650]

That flashing should be fine. Why don't you have him come out and move it? And seal the storm collar? That's part of the install that you paid for..

 

[webby3650]

Regular silicone is fine, that pipe won't get very hot.

 

[83glt]

That flashing should be fine. Why don't you have him come out and move it? And seal the storm collar? That's part of the install that you paid for..

I understand, but honestly I'd rather just do it myself because I know it'll be done right. I wasn't charged that much and he did all the heavy lifting.

Anyway, what about sealing the flashing?

 

[DAKSY]

Use Clear GE 30 year Silicone II, no need for RTV.
Seal the flashing to the underside of the shingles all the way around.
Seal the lowest exposed edge to the shingles.
Seal all exposed nail heads.
Lift the storm collar & run a bead all around the top of the flashing cone.
Slide the storm collar back down onto the cone so that the silicone oozes
through the gap between the collar & the Class A, then run another bead
on top of what oozed through.
Smooth everywhere with your fingertip, & wipe off the excess with a clean rag.

 

[83glt]

Use Clear GE 30 year Silicone II, no need for RTV.
Seal the flashing to the underside of the shingles all the way around.
Seal the lowest exposed edge to the shingles.
Seal all exposed nail heads.
Lift the storm collar & run a bead all around the top of the flashing cone.
Slide the storm collar back down onto the cone so that the silicone oozes
through the gap between the collar & the Class A, then run another bead
on top of what oozed through.
Smooth everywhere with your fingertip, & wipe off the excess with a clean rag.

Fantastic. Thanks so much. Really looking forward to that first fire. Too bad winter's almost over!

 

[xman23]

My guess is, the contractors requirements are for a hired contractor. Being a government agency, there trying to protect the public by keeping tracking the bad guys. I'm sure you could open the permit yourself for work on your own property. I've done it a few times.