Floor to ceiling height must be at least 7' (84") in all cases.

[Traveler004]

Hi Hearthies,

This is my first woodstove and installation of chimney and i'm doing it all by myself so the learning curve here is steeper than the offset I'm planning for the flue. I would so so much appreciate some experienced persons input here.

I'm looking for a wood stove that (by instruction in the manual as per my insurance company) has to allow for a floor to ceiling height of less then 6' feet. My basement is 70" from subfloor to ceiling. Or my other question is can I remove the subfloor and place the stove directly on concrete slab?

The other question I have is regarding going around the roof overhang when installing the chimney. Please let me know if I should ask that in a seperate post and i'll edit if needed.

I'm installing a through the basement wall chimney.
I have a 16" overhang I would like to clear without notching out my suffits. I have read several posts here of people both asking if they can do this, people doing it, and people putting in offsets. I get that the basic idea here is that we don't want a big horizontal run. From stove to vertical would be min 29" and max 36" The chimney system I'm looking at clearly says never put an offset on the external chimney. (I can only assume this has to do with torque force pulling down on it.) In any case I will, but REALLY don't want to cut into my overhang. I'm looking for a chimney system with instructions that allow an offset as part of the through the wall part like this


Also, comments on this. Is it better to go with a 36" horizontal (inclined i know) or a much longer but much steeper incline. I know from working with water and air pressure that this longer steeper incline is likely to create a much better draft but it's honestly more a gut feeling.

Irregardless of what will work, I need to buy one with instructions that allows a horizontal of 36" or an offset of 36" to clear my overhang. Has anyone seen one or even remember seeing one or is it just never going to happen and I should stop looking and start cutting my overhang? lol

(Yes, I know offsets are harder to clean. and yes, i know most people suggest going straight though the house. )

 

[begreen]

Yes, you can have the stove sit directly on the slab. In that case there is no need for a hearth as long as the slab area exposed meets the hearth requirements for the stove. There are stoves that have lower than 84" ceiling clearances. Tell up more about the heating requirements and budget.

If the overhang is large enough, you can either notch and frame the pipe opening or cut an oval hole for the pipe to pass through and flash it like a normal roof penetration. DuraTech allows exterior offsets. They have a kit for this. I would go straight out of the wall into the tee, not at an angle. It's less expensive and reduces the possibility of rain dripping in.
Or better yet, find a location where the pipe can pass up straight through the house and out the roof. The pipe can be chased (framed and covered) in the room or closet.

 

[Ludlow]

Good point about water penetration. Water will run down the pipe and find an easy downhill route to enter. To the poster: How wide is the overhang on the house? 16"? I believe you can shoot through that with an 8" OD pipe (as said) without violating minimum clearances to combustibles depending on how it was framed. No need to notch. Just use a standard roof flashing up top. Your rake fascia will be untouched.

 

[bholler]

Yes I agree if you have to go out through the wall I would go straight up through the soffit. No notch just cut through it put a trim plate on the bottom and flash the top.

 

[Traveler004]

Ok Great, I'll put it on the Slab. That's actually easier for me. The overhang is 12" and then another 4" of eaves troff. My wall is 12" thick. So if i'm reading the DuraTech manual correctly. I can do this:


if I cut my eaves troff then I don't need to cut into the roof?

DuraTech:
3. On installations where there is no enclosure around the chimney a wall band must be used to secure the chimney to the wall. Maximum distance between wall bands is 8’.
4.The minimum length of chimney extending past the inside wall is 5”.
5.The maximum length of chimney extending past the inside wall is 24”.

So my wall is 12" the overhang is 12" so if I cut off the 4" troff Can I do this or do I need clearance? Because number 6 makes NO SENSE to me:
6.The distance between the stove pipe and a parallel combustible wall or ceiling must not be less than 18". The distance between the horizontal stove pipe and the unshielded vertical wall.

How can it be 18" away from a combustible aka wood framed overhang? This has to be wrong considering that all of you experts chimney sweeps are saying running it straight up the wall and through the overhang. That's like 1" clearance. 18" is crazy far. My siding is brick so it doesn't matter there but the overhang certainly combustible. And elsewhere in the doc it says you need 2" clearance from All combustibles. I don't have much confidence in instruction 6 anyhow considering the last part is an unfinished sentence fragment. But maybe one of you could translate this for me.

I did notice Duratech had offsets but it says for enclosed installations only. I'm not sure if that means interior or if I build around a combustible wood box around it then I would be ok. No seriously it must be because of the torque force. I couldn't see anywhere them say you can offset around your overhang. I did find one company but they are in the UK. it was exactly what I think I want.


But it just doesn't seem to be the way it's done here. And i'm wondering why. Allot of times things get standardised because of looks. Maybe people don't like the look of this so it's not popular and then once it's not popular people don't question why.
So everyone has again recommended that I go though the house. If i can't go straight up the outside of the house though the overhang. Is 24" horizontal too much? If it is too much and I angle it like the photo on the right will that make the 24" ok?

And then I will have to contend with the supports that only go 6". So they aren't making it easy for me to go around the overhang. That's a bit frustrating. But I looks like I can't win here. I'm putting a hole though my roof one way or another. I'm not happy about this but I guess I'll start take out the soffits and see what i'm dealing with. reciprocating saw I guess. Just cut a hole and patch it up later? Don't answer that i'm sure if I google it i'll get a million how to cut a chimney hole though your suffits videos.

Thanks everyone for your recommendations. I am going with Duratech and will be going directly on the slab and straight out my basement foundation wall up the brick and through the overhang.

 

[begreen]

The main issue with an exterior offset is supporting the pipe. There are rafters or joists that can be used for this with interior installs. Here is an old discussion on the topic.

Does any brand of Class A allow an offset around an eave?

Hi everyone, I've spent dozens of hours reading on the site and have been blessed by your knowledge. My question: I want to install a woodstove on the first floor and am forced to do a 'through the wall' installation. (The reason is that the main living room is directly above the rec room I'm...

www.hearth.com

It sounds like you have a plan now. One suggestion to help the stove draft easier is to use double-wall stove pipe and 45s with an offset instead of a 90º elbow going to the chimney thimble.

 

[bholler]

Ok Great, I'll put it on the Slab. That's actually easier for me. The overhang is 12" and then another 4" of eaves troff. My wall is 12" thick. So if i'm reading the DuraTech manual correctly. I can do this:
View attachment 247798

if I cut my eaves troff then I don't need to cut into the roof?

DuraTech:
3. On installations where there is no enclosure around the chimney a wall band must be used to secure the chimney to the wall. Maximum distance between wall bands is 8’.
4.The minimum length of chimney extending past the inside wall is 5”.
5.The maximum length of chimney extending past the inside wall is 24”.

So my wall is 12" the overhang is 12" so if I cut off the 4" troff Can I do this or do I need clearance? Because number 6 makes NO SENSE to me:
6.The distance between the stove pipe and a parallel combustible wall or ceiling must not be less than 18". The distance between the horizontal stove pipe and the unshielded vertical wall.

How can it be 18" away from a combustible aka wood framed overhang? This has to be wrong considering that all of you experts chimney sweeps are saying running it straight up the wall and through the overhang. That's like 1" clearance. 18" is crazy far. My siding is brick so it doesn't matter there but the overhang certainly combustible. And elsewhere in the doc it says you need 2" clearance from All combustibles. I don't have much confidence in instruction 6 anyhow considering the last part is an unfinished sentence fragment. But maybe one of you could translate this for me.

I did notice Duratech had offsets but it says for enclosed installations only. I'm not sure if that means interior or if I build around a combustible wood box around it then I would be ok. No seriously it must be because of the torque force. I couldn't see anywhere them say you can offset around your overhang. I did find one company but they are in the UK. it was exactly what I think I want.
View attachment 247813

But it just doesn't seem to be the way it's done here. And i'm wondering why. Allot of times things get standardised because of looks. Maybe people don't like the look of this so it's not popular and then once it's not popular people don't question why.
So everyone has again recommended that I go though the house. If i can't go straight up the outside of the house though the overhang. Is 24" horizontal too much? If it is too much and I angle it like the photo on the right will that make the 24" ok?

And then I will have to contend with the supports that only go 6". So they aren't making it easy for me to go around the overhang. That's a bit frustrating. But I looks like I can't win here. I'm putting a hole though my roof one way or another. I'm not happy about this but I guess I'll start take out the soffits and see what i'm dealing with. reciprocating saw I guess. Just cut a hole and patch it up later? Don't answer that i'm sure if I google it i'll get a million how to cut a chimney hole though your suffits videos.

Thanks everyone for your recommendations. I am going with Duratech and will be going directly on the slab and straight out my basement foundation wall up the brick and through the overhang.

You need 2" of clearance for the chimney. 18" for single wall connector pipe inside. And yes a 24" horizontal run is fine.

 

[Ludlow]

What is a troff?

 

[begreen]

Eavestrough = gutter

 

[Ludlow]

You cut a downspout in so it drains from both sides I suppose. OK.