Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove

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Turbocharged

New Member
Oct 11, 2017
1
Michigan
Hello, I was wondering if anyone could tell me the possible year of a cook stove I found.
It is from the Atlanta Stove works company and it is labeled "Winner". There is a number on the top: 8316. I have scoured the internet and can't find any information indicating the year of this stove. I did find one article that may indicate it was before 1902, but I'm not sure. There are other numbers stamped as well.
[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove
 
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Do you still have this stove? I just got one from a guy who said he bought it new in 1965.
 
Do you still have this stove? I just got one from a guy who said he bought it new in 1965.
I have one of these. "Winner", Model 8316, Atlanta Stove Works.
Two of the legs have broken tabs, need to be repaired. If I just drilled new holes, how would that affect the value? Also needs 4 pins for the side doors. Where can I get those?

[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove
 
I have one of these. "Winner", Model 8316, Atlanta Stove Works.
Two of the legs have broken tabs, need to be repaired. If I just drilled new holes, how would that affect the value?

You should be able to find door pins if you measure the diameter of the hole and length. After you have that info you should be able to call around and find some. Id recommend Fastenal.

As for the feet, they do not have holes, they slide in under the stove in slots.

As for value, Im really not sure. Mine is still sitting in storage since I need to re cast a few pieces for it. Really it may just be a parts stove for me until I find another in decent shape.

But my personal opinion, id you do it right, full breakdown, clean and inspect, reassemble w new cement and paint with a good high temp. Then I personally would like to get 1800-2k for it. You can generally get restored full size cook stoves starting around 3k from a professional. I do like to just remind people though, professional restorers generally get top dollar for stoves, mainly because of the reputation. If your just person doing it to their own stove to sell, or just starting a restoration business, then you may get 50-60 percent of what a established restoration shop may get.
 
You should be able to find door pins if you measure the diameter of the hole and length. After you have that info you should be able to call around and find some. Id recommend Fastenal.

As for the feet, they do not have holes, they slide in under the stove in slots.

As for value, Im really not sure. Mine is still sitting in storage since I need to re cast a few pieces for it. Really it may just be a parts stove for me until I find another in decent shape.

But my personal opinion, id you do it right, full breakdown, clean and inspect, reassemble w new cement and paint with a good high temp. Then I personally would like to get 1800-2k for it. You can generally get restored full size cook stoves starting around 3k from a professional. I do like to just remind people though, professional restorers generally get top dollar for stoves, mainly because of the reputation. If your just person doing it to their own stove to sell, or just starting a restoration business, then you may get 50-60 percent of what a established restoration shop may get.
On my stove, the legs are bolted on, though two of them have broken where the bolts go through (by the way, lift, don't tip! :p). I'm attaching pictures of the broken an remaining legs, and the existing door pins - are the pins correct? If not, what style should they have?
Thanks for your help!
Michael

[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove
 
You should be able to find door pins if you measure the diameter of the hole and length. After you have that info you should be able to call around and find some. Id recommend Fastenal.

As for the feet, they do not have holes, they slide in under the stove in slots.

As for value, Im really not sure. Mine is still sitting in storage since I need to re cast a few pieces for it. Really it may just be a parts stove for me until I find another in decent shape.

But my personal opinion, id you do it right, full breakdown, clean and inspect, reassemble w new cement and paint with a good high temp. Then I personally would like to get 1800-2k for it. You can generally get restored full size cook stoves starting around 3k from a professional. I do like to just remind people though, professional restorers generally get top dollar for stoves, mainly because of the reputation. If your just person doing it to their own stove to sell, or just starting a restoration business, then you may get 50-60 percent of what a established restoration shop may get.
On my stove, the legs are bolted on, though two of them have broken where the bolts go through (by the way, lift, don't tip! :p). I'm attaching pictures of the broken an remaining legs, and the existing door pins - are the pins correct? If not, what style should they have?
Maybe the ls on mine are not original?
Thanks for your help!

Michael

[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove
 
Yea those legs all broke like that because someone at some point thought it would be better to bolt the legs then how they were designed. Not a crazy thought since if you lift the stove wrong the legs could fall out (but your obviously not supposed to lift or move the stove when its going anyway.)
But as soon as you drill cast iron, it becomes weaker around the drill hole. And those legs didnt have much meat left on either side of the hole. You can either try to find some legs, or possibly get a good one you have left sandcasted and copied x4, since the sand cast is going to be slightly smaller than the original.

As for door pins, I will have to check my stove in the next couple of days and see what it has, as I know its pretty much original.
 
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You should be able to find door pins if you measure the diameter of the hole and length. After you have that info you should be able to call around and find some. Id recommend Fastenal.

As for the feet, they do not have holes, they slide in under the stove in slots.

As for value, Im really not sure. Mine is still sitting in storage since I need to re cast a few pieces for it. Really it may just be a parts stove for me until I find another in decent shape.

But my personal opinion, id you do it right, full breakdown, clean and inspect, reassemble w new cement and paint with a good high temp. Then I personally would like to get 1800-2k for it. You can generally get restored full size cook stoves starting around 3k from a professional. I do like to just remind people though, professional restorers generally get top dollar for stoves, mainly because of the reputation. If your just person doing it to their own stove to sell, or just starting a restoration business, then you may get 50-60 percent of what a established restoration shop may get.
On my stove, the legs are bolted on, though two of them have broken where the bolts go through (by the way, lift, don't tip! :p). I'm attaching pictures of the broken an remaining legs, and the existing door pins - are the pins correct? If not, what style should they have?
Maybe the les on mine are not original?
Thanks for your help!

Michael
Yea those legs all broke like that because someone at some point thought it would be better to bolt the legs then how they were designed. Not a crazy thought since if you lift the stove wrong the legs could fall out (but your obviously not supposed to lift or move the stove when its going anyway.)
But as soon as you drill cast iron, it becomes weaker around the drill hole. And those legs didnt have much meat left on either side of the hole. You can either try to find some legs, or possibly get a good one you have left sandcasted and copied x4, since the sand cast is going to be slightly smaller than the original.

As for door pins, I will have to check my stove in the next couple of days and see what it has, as I know its pretty much original.
I was watching a video where someone had one of these, and I think mine may be missing the “fire grate”? I think it maybe attaches to the large bolt coming through the side of the firebox, on the upper right side?

do you have any ideas about where I might find hat, or something to substitute for it? Is there any way to get a parts list?

Thanks,
Michael
 
I do not think a parts list exists for this stove. The only way to get parts is either to find a parts stove, fabricate them yourself, or re casting parts.

But you need the orginal part to re cast new parts. And even then, the new parts will be slightly smaller. Ive heard of people building out the thickness of parts they need casted with bondo to offset the shrinkage.
 
I do not think a parts list exists for this stove. The only way to get parts is either to find a parts stove, fabricate them yourself, or re casting parts.

But you need the orginal part to re cast new parts. And even then, the new parts will be slightly smaller. Ive heard of people building out the thickness of parts they need casted with bondo to offset the shrinkage.
So , does yours have a fire grate? :)
 
I tried to find someone to weld it, but was unable to. It takes special (very expensive) welding rod and lots of experience welding cast iron.

I found someone who made braces for the legs, but they didn’t look very nice, but they might have worked.

In the end, I went to Ace Hardware, fastener section. They have a cast iron plate, about 3 inches in diameter, which I used like a big washer on the bolt that holds it on. This only works if your legs bolt on like mine.
I’ll include some pictures of my stove to illustrate.
[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove
I agree with D. Hermit, above that drilling cat iron probably weakens it, and I would definitely defer to his expertise. Drilling is probably not the best idea.

But if your stove had legs like mine, then my solution might work.

My stove is a model 8316 and the door says “Winner”, but the bottom (where the legs mount) says “Bonanza” so I think mine might actually be a model 8316 Bonanza, from Birmingham Stove and Range (BSR bought the molds when ASW went out of business, and continued to make model 8316 “biscuit” type stoves.
The grooves in the bottom of mine don’t seem to have the correct taper to hold legs on, and the hole appear to be cast into the legs during casting, rather than drilled.

I hope this helps. :)

Perhaps you can help me?
I am missing the fire grate (in the firebox). Can you take a picture of yours for me to compare? I’m including a picture of that, too.
Also, what is this large bolt for? It is installed on the right side of the firebox, below the side door.
 
I tried to find someone to weld it, but was unable to. It takes special (very expensive) welding rod and lots of experience welding cast iron.

I found someone who made braces for the legs, but they didn’t look very nice, but they might have worked.

In the end, I went to Ace Hardware, fastener section. They have a cast iron plate, about 3 inches in diameter, which I used like a big washer on the bolt that holds it on. This only works if your legs bolt on like mine.
I’ll include some pictures of my stove to illustrate.
View attachment 299371View attachment 299372View attachment 299373View attachment 299374View attachment 299375View attachment 299376
I agree with D. Hermit, above that drilling cat iron probably weakens it, and I would definitely defer to his expertise. Drilling is probably not the best idea.

But if your stove had legs like mine, then my solution might work.

My stove is a model 8316 and the door says “Winner”, but the bottom (where the legs mount) says “Bonanza” so I think mine might actually be a model 8316 Bonanza, from Birmingham Stove and Range (BSR bought the molds when ASW went out of business, and continued to make model 8316 “biscuit” type stoves.
The grooves in the bottom of mine don’t seem to have the correct taper to hold legs on, and the hole appear to be cast into the legs during casting, rather than drilled.

I hope this helps. :)

Perhaps you can help me?
I am missing the fire grate (in the firebox). Can you take a picture of yours for me to compare? I’m including a picture of that, too.
Also, what is this large bolt for? It is installed on the right side of the firebox, below the side door.
We have the Atlanta Winner 8316 stove. We do not have the word Bonanza anywhere on it. The best solution would be to buy a new leg. Here is our grate and rack in case that is what you meant.

[Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove [Hearth.com] Found: Atlanta Stove Works cook stove
 
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I make door hinge pins for stoves that use solid rivets by using a bolt the correct diameter. Use a long one with the unthreaded shank below head long enough to cut threads off and have a shank without threads long enough with bolt head. Grind the points off head on a bench grinder. Then chuck the bolt up in a drill. Operate hand drill in reverse against running bench grinder wheel to form round head. Doesn’t take long to make original looking pins.
 
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We have the Atlanta Winner 8316 stove. We do not have the word Bonanza anywhere on it. The best solution would be to buy a new leg. Here is our grate and rack in case that is what you meant.

View attachment 299377 View attachment 299378
Thanks for the pictures.

Yes, the fire grate on the left.
Looking at yours, it doesn’t appear to have anything to do with the large bolt I showed (If yours as one, it would be just out of view a the bottom of your fire grate picture).

The fire grate doesn't appear to have an “shaker” mechanism, so that’s good to know. Maybe I can make something functional, possibly by cutting down a larger grate.

Out of curiosity, do you use wood or coal with yours? Can you cook with it?
 
I make door hinge pins for stoves that use solid rivets by using a bolt the correct diameter. Use a long one with the unthreaded shank below head long enough to cut threads off and have a shank without threads long enough with bolt head. Grind the points off head on a bench grinder. Then chuck the bolt up in a drill. Operate hand drill in reverse against running bench grinder wheel to form round head. Doesn’t take long to make original looking pins.
Thanks for the tip!
👍