Frequent and Small Chimney Fires

[mgills]

Hello -

I am running a VC Intrepid, new as of last year with double walled pipe to the top of the 9' ceiling and 9' more of triple walled insulted pipe. There is a bend in the double walled pipe to get it away from the chimney peak.

This is my second year running this VC and third year with a wood stove. I'm burning wood that I know is not <25% moisture (still working to get ahead) but I burn consistently over 400 degrees 24/7. I clean my chimney out each year and leave it ready for the upcoming season. I have some creosote build up on the glass (what I believe is a sign of poor burning) but not too much and only needing a cleaning every couple of weeks. This may be a lot, but it's less frequent than my previous two years which tells me I'm burning better than in the past.

I've experienced over the past few weeks frequent (every few days) but small (out within <5 minutes after closing the bypass) chimney fires. What seems to be happening is I load the stove up with a few pieces of wood, leave the air opening on high to get a fire going, and then the fire leaps up and then goes straight from the box into the chimney and starts a chimney fire. These have only happened when I'm warming up the stove and never during an overnight burn even with the bypass open. I never leave the air on high overnight.

I understand that burning clean wood is the most important thing and I've taken steps to improve my wood quality. Over the past week, I've burning almost exclusively kiln dried wood but still had a chimney fire. Other than improving my wood quality, is there anything that would lead to this happening so frequently? As noted, this is not my first year and definitely the highest quality of wood burned yet, however the fires seem to be getting more frequent. I haven't inspected my flue since I fired it up but I did this fall when I cleaned it and everything looked fine. Is the only way to prevent this to ensure I use high quality wood and always burn via the catalytic converter?

Thanks in advance.

 

[all night moe]

Creosol is a direct result of MC in the wood. Check MC on a room temp fresh split, in the center. Ideally you want 20% or less.
When you burned the kiln dried, was it dried for low MC or just to treat for insects? Insect treated wood is never fully dried. Also if it was only one chimney fire during your week of kiln wood burning, it was probably creosol left over from previous fires.

You can try bio bricks or convenience store bagged wood for peace of mind.

 

[bholler]

Hello -

I am running a VC Intrepid, new as of last year with double walled pipe to the top of the 9' ceiling and 9' more of triple walled insulted pipe. There is a bend in the double walled pipe to get it away from the chimney peak.

This is my second year running this VC and third year with a wood stove. I'm burning wood that I know is not <25% moisture (still working to get ahead) but I burn consistently over 400 degrees 24/7. I clean my chimney out each year and leave it ready for the upcoming season. I have some creosote build up on the glass (what I believe is a sign of poor burning) but not too much and only needing a cleaning every couple of weeks. This may be a lot, but it's less frequent than my previous two years which tells me I'm burning better than in the past.

I've experienced over the past few weeks frequent (every few days) but small (out within <5 minutes after closing the bypass) chimney fires. What seems to be happening is I load the stove up with a few pieces of wood, leave the air opening on high to get a fire going, and then the fire leaps up and then goes straight from the box into the chimney and starts a chimney fire. These have only happened when I'm warming up the stove and never during an overnight burn even with the bypass open. I never leave the air on high overnight.

I understand that burning clean wood is the most important thing and I've taken steps to improve my wood quality. Over the past week, I've burning almost exclusively kiln dried wood but still had a chimney fire. Other than improving my wood quality, is there anything that would lead to this happening so frequently? As noted, this is not my first year and definitely the highest quality of wood burned yet, however the fires seem to be getting more frequent. I haven't inspected my flue since I fired it up but I did this fall when I cleaned it and everything looked fine. Is the only way to prevent this to ensure I use high quality wood and always burn via the catalytic converter?

Thanks in advance.

400 degrees measured where and how?

 

[mgills]

400 degrees measured where and how?

Stove top thermometer

 

[bholler]

Stove top thermometer

400 on the stove top is way to cool

 

[mgills]

400 on the stove top is way to cool

Ok thanks. I’ll be sure to keep it hotter.

What is the upper limit for stove top?

 

[ozarkoak]

So hard to get the stove hot with greenish wood. I can bet everyone on this forum has been there. I know I have. First year with our stove and I struggled to hit 350 constantly. Once you get the wood situation sorted, look out. It will be like a new stove. I'm rooting for ya. 👍

 

[mgills]

So hard to get the stove hot with greenish wood. I can bet everyone on this forum has been there. I know I have. First year with our stove and I struggled to hit 350 constantly. Once you get the wood situation sorted, look out. It will be like a new stove. I'm rooting for ya. 👍

Thanks! It’s difficult to get ahead.

Do you think that’s the only reason I’m getting chimney fires?

 

[bholler]

Ok thanks. I’ll be sure to keep it hotter.

What is the upper limit for stove top?

800 or so

 

[Woodsplitter67]

Splitting smaller will help you out some and keeping the wood will help a little. I can say that your ahead by at least getting a moisture meter. There are species that dry faster then others that can also help you out

Your definitely getting fires due to all the extra water your putting up the pipe. It would be smart to do a mid season cleaning also.. in your situation the more the merrier..

In your situation Id resplit your wood, keep indoors by the stove and mix with biobricks

 

[ozarkoak]

Splitting smaller will help you out some and keeping the wood will help a little. I can say that your ahead by at least getting a moisture meter. There are species that dry faster then others that can also help you out

Your definitely getting fires due to all the extra water your putting up the pipe. It would be smart to do a mid season cleaning also.. in your situation the more the merrier..

In your situation Id resplit your wood, keep indoors by the stove and mix with biobricks

First year with our stove I had wood delivered in October in the rain and started burning that day. It was HORRIBLE. I did the tiny split thing and stored it inside next to the stove. Wood was so wet you could actually hear it drying It cracked and creaked. Was the worst winter ever. We were cold, and tired from splitting wood into thumb sized kindling. Memories.

 

[begreen]

Firewood takes time to season. It's rare to get seasoned firewood from a seller, regardless of how it it promoted. One way to know for sure is to buy green wood and season it yourself. Or get a basic moisture meter and test the wood before purchasing.

For now, the flue may already need cleaning. With that done, try mixing in some known dry wood with the firewood. 2x4 cutoffs from a construction site will work. Or get some sawdust bricks like Redstones, BioBrick, ECO bricks, etc. to mix in with the firewood one or two bricks at a time.

 

[Eman85]

Your stove is newer than mine and I've never used one like yours. My STT can get as high as I want until I engage the cat then it's a game of satisfying the cat to keep it in control. With the STT at 500 if I close the damper and engage the cat when the cat reaches 1000 degrees I cut the air back and STT and flue temps drop. If I close the air down for a long burn cat will be 1000-1500 and the STT will be 350 or so. Once the cat settles after the outgassing of the wood I can increase air and get STT to 500+ if I want.
Are you monitoring cat temps? My understanding is cat isn't doing much until it lights off after 600*-1000. I have a smoked glass every morning after a long overnight burn with the air cut back.

 

[Eman85]

Your stove is newer than mine and I've never used one like yours. My STT can get as high as I want until I engage the cat then it's a game of satisfying the cat to keep it in control. With the STT at 500 if I close the damper and engage the cat when the cat reaches 1000 degrees I cut the air back and STT and flue temps drop. If I close the air down for a long burn cat will be 1000-1500 and the STT will be 350 or so. Once the cat settles after the outgassing of the wood I can increase air and get STT to 500+ if I want.
Are you monitoring cat temps? My understanding is cat isn't doing much until it lights off after 600*-1000. I have a smoked glass every morning after a long overnight burn with the air cut back.

 

[a59cheffy]

I am in the same boat as you. Should have put away wood two years ago when I had my Dauntless installed. Lucky for me our outside temps are alot higher than yours in Michigan. I have a year old supply of oak, myrtle and doug fir, split and stacked. I am 6 months to a year behind. Right now I am using really dry cedar mix with small splits of the driest splits I can find. Moisture meter is a lifesaver!

 

[Woodsplitter67]

I am in the same boat as you. Should have put away wood two years ago when I had my Dauntless installed. Lucky for me our outside temps are alot higher than yours in Michigan. I have a year old supply of oak, myrtle and doug fir, split and stacked. I am 6 months to a year behind. Right now I am using really dry cedar mix with small splits of the driest splits I can find. Moisture meter is a lifesaver!

Many people dont like this wood.. but poplar is a wood to get in a situation like this.. yes theres not a ton of BTUs in it.. but it will literally season during winter. Poplar will literally season in 3 months

The other is put a kiln together.. the how to is in my signature.. if interested

 

[stoveliker]

All of the above .

To get ahead, get green maple now for two years from now (split it, stack it off the ground, top covered). Get green oak, do the same. Three years from now you'll love it.
And for next year, pine, fir, cedar, biobricks, pallets, lumber, and if you're lucky ash. Split small, stack off the ground, top covered.

A chit ton of work, but worth it. And the next year's you fill back what you burned and don't have to worry as it'll be there three years after.

Wood burning is fun. The start up is a steep learning curve and a boatload of work - if one or both don't happen, the fun will be much less, and (fire) hazards will be larger.

It may sound daunting, but you can do it.
I built and filled this three year shed (one bay a year) in the first covid lockdown. Best thing I did for my heating ever. No worries anymore about wood quality.

 

[all night moe]

Yes lots of work, and I'm behind again for being without a truck for a year. Will be starting over this season with little left in reserves still outside. All in rounds. Oak, ash, and a bit of maple and cherry. Will be hitting the fast seasoning wood first for next seasons supply. I am lucky to have the resources I do, for unwanted uglies and misfits. I can get these somewhat already dry.

Like stoveliker said, it's work but rewarding.