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Posted By Marshy,
Oct 4, 2017 at 9:15 AM
Change of plans. Just gonna send it.
Yep, should be fine.
I used that same boot you have. I used another piece of roof sheeting to overlap from under my ridge to the boot.
I have some notched end wall that I'll cut up to seal the low side of the brown flashing and the chimney flashing. I can bend some for the sides and seal it all then screw it together to keep bugs and stuff out. For now, as long as there is no rain or snow getting in I'll use it like it is (minus the duct tape on the chimney pipe). It's a flashing nightmare I'm general how the metal roof meets the house there.
We already have terrible lady bug infestations. I feel like I'm making them a new palace for next year.
Metal roof manufactures make foam "inside closure" and "outside closure" strips to fill in the gaps. They are cheap - like a couple bucks for a 3' wide strip. I doubled up the strips when I put together the boilerhouse last year - we have critters here, and in a big way. Just a thought.
I have a question about my Selkirk chimney I just installed. I was wondering how does one maintain the 2" clearance to the chimney pipe to the insulation in the ceiling? My pipe has 2" or slightly more to the nearest joist or support blocks..?
I think I found the answer, please let me knowing I'm on on the right track.
I found Selkirk makes a firestop joist shield. Is that the right product?
Remember, I use the adjustible cathedral support to secure the chimney pipe.
The firestop joist shield installation instructions say the preferred method of installation is with the flat plate facing down (fig. 1A in below pic) and the cylindrical shield inserted up through. However, for pitched ceilings it says to construct a level frame above the ceiling joists and install it per fig. 3A.
Maybe they suggest this for aesthetics so thst way your framing isn't protruding out of the ceiling? Idk but, I cant frame it like they suggest because of the cathererial support. It makes more sense to me to frame it on the bottom side of the ceiling. Basically take Fig. 3A and invert it. And suggestions? Is this the right rock?
There is a insulation collar that is nailed to the top of ceiling joists. It maintains proper clearance.
Here it is on amazon
I dont have room for something like that. The ceiling joists in my boiler room are the roof joists which are 2x6. I have R-21 unfaced insulation in the ceiling. I just need some way to trim out the chimney pipe through the insulation and sheetrock to maintain clearance. I also dont want to leave an air space so all the heat in the room room is lost through the gap.
I called tech support at Selkirk and she said I could install it like FIG 3A but upside down and that in my case the firestop isn't even a factor because the penetration exits to the outdoors. The firestop is meant prevent fire spreading between levels inside the structure.
I'll just frame up a small level box and use the flame stop/joist sheild combo. Ill get a small flat plate of 20 gage or thicker and cut it to seal around the cylinder portion of the joist shield and install it under my 3/4" roof sheathing and the joist shield will fit up through it.
I'll get pictures when I do it.
Your a funny guy. No! But I might be done today with copper, we'll see. I'm more nervous about draining my existing headers to install the check valve and tie into them. More so refilling the system after the connections are made and getting all the air vented and the mess from the water.
Actually, I'm thinking about jumping up on the roof and hanging the remaining 12' of my chimney pipe while the weather is sunny and 40F. Thst way if I finish everything else and the weather is bad I can actually use it!
Summer's coming ya know - lol.
Mine drug on for months it seemed, and it was getting down to crunch time in October by the time I got my first fire lit. A bit hard on the nerves when the system is totally down and winter is breathing on you - cutting into an established system with big changes in January is another thing.
Maybe put in some webstone purge valves to make refill easy.
Its not too late, I will incorporate a few. I'm a few elbows short so I'll add them to the list and make an order through supply house again. I purchased a few elbows at the local home store so I'll buy enough to return those fittings. Thst will help me reach the $100 purchase and get free shipping.
I'm trying to find something like this but have been unsuccessful.
More chimney up, just need a brace near the top before I can walk away for today and go back to copper.
Not sure what size you need for that elbow vent but here's a elbow with drain that could probably do the same. Maybe?
Or this with a vent in it
Where's all that snow you had?
Would look kind of cobbled maybe but an ordinary T with iso valve then a vent?
The weather has been crazy mild for the second half of Jan. Some good rains and average temps in the low 40's has melted nearly all our snow. There's still maybe 4-5" of snow left as ground cover. Two and a half weeks ago it was waist deep. We are getting March weather in Jan! It could all change in the blink of an eye though so that's why I wanted to get the chimney functional.
Thanks for the fitting @warno, that's what I was looking for. I'll use two of the 1" brass elbows as high point vents in the emergency gravity feed loop. The rest of the system will be fine, the air scoopswill catch it, the elbow drains are just for initial filling.
Chimney looks great Marshy
Thanks @Gasifier. I installed the joist shield today and got the insulation back up. I'm debating leaving it like this or making the whole ceiling flat up there... Only two more 2x4' and a few screws would make it flat. It would be easier to rock if I did make it flat.... I'll think about it, but I'm leaning towards flat.
Back to copper now that I eliminated the wind tunnel draft.
Rocking your boiler room? That's pretty high class stuff.
Haha, yeah the 5/8" rock is a 45 min fire barrier. More of a safety thing really.
I feel like this is getting drawn out now lol. I'm ready for this to be over.
I can almost count the remaining solder joints with my fingers... and toes.
HTX is pipe tight. Only thing left on this side of the system is the gravity dump zone. It's ready to hang overhead.
Other side of the wall looks like this.
I'm about 5' short on copper tubing to finish it out. Still have 20 joints to do on this side (or a few more).