got home and had this lying around
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![[Hearth.com] got home and had this lying around](/talk/data/attachments/178/178424-412a9007958406b8f589eb9566309f3c.jpg?hash=bPEECKoVUC)
![[Hearth.com] got home and had this lying around](/talk/data/attachments/178/178425-2011ffb110fb33956d5d6c230db84b66.jpg?hash=rOGAm4azV2)
Kevin*
Burning Hunk
I've split lots of pine by hand. Do yourself a favor and split them in half with a wedge first and then go at them with the ax. And do yourself another favor - the piece in the lower left in the picture and any that are similar, don't even bother trying, cut it into 4 inch discs and then split those in half.
i don't think so. his biz card that he left said bothell. i guess it depends on where he's cutting though.
Lone_Gun
Member
I always love a pile of free wood. I would love it even more if it was delivered and waiting for me when I got home.
Nice score!
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
Nice score!
Sent from my SM-G900T using Tapatalk
AmbDrvr253
Minister of Fire
I wouldn't even swing the maul I would cut them in half with the chainsaw first. Just slice them half way even No need to completely cut in half.
i had given thought to this. however, i'm a newbie with the chainsaw (stihl 021) and have only used it a few times. i've watched a lot of the BC forestry training videos, which are awesome, but i am somewhat nervous about performing this kind of cut as i fear i'd inadvertently hit the zone at the tip of the bar that causes kickback.
i think i have a 16" bar. i could probably make one cut from each side of the round and keep the tip of the bar up and just let the motor end drop i guess...
any videos or tips you guys have on how to do this cut, or am i overthinking?
The 021 is small to use for noodling. However it's pine which is soft and easier on saws. But still the saws probably a little too small but that doesnt mean it can't put some slices into the logs to help them crack open during splitting.
Look up noodling videos. So lay the log on it's side / bark side. Not end to end that's harder. No lay it on it's side again as if you were going to roll it around.
If you can make some slices into it atleast 1/3 of the diameter it will give the wood somewhere to expand when you swing the maul. So make a few slices and then stand the round back up, and swing the maul or axe on either side of your slice. It should crack for you.
As for kick back you have it correct. It occurs at the tip. So since your bar is 16 inches start with the tip completely out of the wood at one end of the log. Start your slicing cut and work backwards until you reach the other end of the log. Keep the bar angled and by the time the bars tip reaches the wood it's just inside of the slice you already made . Therefore your fine. Keep your bar angled and as you reach the other end of the log you will be able to straighten the bar out when the saws body clears the back of the log. You will end up with a straight slice from one end of the log to the other. If it's several inches deep that should be enough to atleast allow the log to split in that area when you swing your maul or axe.
Hard to explain but easy to show someone. Take your time. And obviously don't stand right over the saw when your noodling . I see new cutters all the time with their faces inches away from the bar. Common sense goes a long way.
If noodling is not an option you might want a maul or sledge bigger than the fiskers and get some old fashioned steel wedges. You will get it done just will take longer . And you will get a work out
Look up noodling videos. So lay the log on it's side / bark side. Not end to end that's harder. No lay it on it's side again as if you were going to roll it around.
If you can make some slices into it atleast 1/3 of the diameter it will give the wood somewhere to expand when you swing the maul. So make a few slices and then stand the round back up, and swing the maul or axe on either side of your slice. It should crack for you.
As for kick back you have it correct. It occurs at the tip. So since your bar is 16 inches start with the tip completely out of the wood at one end of the log. Start your slicing cut and work backwards until you reach the other end of the log. Keep the bar angled and by the time the bars tip reaches the wood it's just inside of the slice you already made . Therefore your fine. Keep your bar angled and as you reach the other end of the log you will be able to straighten the bar out when the saws body clears the back of the log. You will end up with a straight slice from one end of the log to the other. If it's several inches deep that should be enough to atleast allow the log to split in that area when you swing your maul or axe.
Hard to explain but easy to show someone. Take your time. And obviously don't stand right over the saw when your noodling . I see new cutters all the time with their faces inches away from the bar. Common sense goes a long way.
If noodling is not an option you might want a maul or sledge bigger than the fiskers and get some old fashioned steel wedges. You will get it done just will take longer . And you will get a work out
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