Got the new Jotul 600 up and running!

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Nice stove, and nice place!
Two questions:
Why did you go with a "t" instead of an elbow? I would think an elbow would make for easier cleaning? Getting to that T looks like it ain't going to be fun.
What is the piping running outside the house for? If it is for wood burning appliance, it doesn't look braced very well or plumb, and also does not look like it meets the 10/2/3 rule?
Not knocking, just curious, and thinking about stability & safety.
 
I went with a T- connector instead of an elbow because the T - connector allows any creosote that happens to fall down the liner to build up in the two inches below the T in the removable cap. I previously had a stove connected with a 90 elbow out the back of the stove and when some creosote flaked off the pipe and landed in the elbow between cleanings I ended up with a chimney fire when that pile of creosote ignited one day.

The pipe outside the house is a vent pipe for my propane hot water heater. It seems to pull a good draft and I've never had any problems with fumes in the garage. It was installed before I bought the house and the previous owner ran it like that for ten years, as well. I recently had the hot water tank replaced and the licensed plumber didn't say anything to me about it being a problem.
 
Nick..wow. Do you feel like you just discovered you had a case of old vintage nitro glycerin in the trunk of your car that had worn out shocks?
 
Here are a few photos showing the new stove from the side. The positioning of the stove on the hearth extension was determined by two variables: leaving it sit out far enough for good access to the side door for loading, and far enough back so that the rear legs sat inside the fireplace since the fireplace extends down another floor and is supported by a huge footer. The hearth extension is brick, but the brick is sitting on the sub-floor with no foundation. However, there is a beam made up of two 2"x10"s running directly under the extension. For some reason the extension has a slope away from the fireplace. When we moved in 12 years ago I saw a 3/8" gap between the hearth extension and the fireplace and filled it with mortar. Since then it must have stabilized because that mortar joint has not opened up. If you look at the front legs of the stove you can see that I had to place 3/4" spacers under the legs to level the stove. I placed a level on beam I just mentioned, the floor joists, and the bottom side of the sub-floor from the lower level side and everything is level. So the only thing I can figure out is that something was used between the hearth extension brick and the sub-floor that must have compressed more for some reason out near the edge than near the hearth where it is at the exact same height as the hearth. Also, my living room floor in front of the hearth extension is level. When I laid laminate flooring a few years ago there was no sign of anything going on with the sub-floor in front of the hearth extension. One final note, the extension is solid brick and not built over a wooden box.

View attachment 95401

Thanks for the side view and all the information. This looks similar to my son's fireplace and your experience may be very helpful to him. I really like the side loading feature of the Jotul 600.

Bryan










View attachment 95402 View attachment 95403 Finally, hear is a new photo showing the stove and chimney now that the brick around the fireplace opening has dried. In earlier photos there is a discoloration due to the brick being wet. There was a shadow line from where my old insert surround had been that I washed off. View attachment 95404
 
Do you mean, did I feel like I got lucky that my house didn't burn down from a creosote fuelled chimney fire ? If so , then the answer is ,yes !
 
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